Gunsmith for a Garand

Jesus.C

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Im looking for a good gunsmith for a 1941 winchesger m1 garand.

This rifle jam 60% of the time on the 7th round. Im very aware of the early production issue of this gun were the receiver was milled too much and was causing this issue. This seem not to be the case. I dont use the gas plug but I select safe ammo base on the plug manufacturer own test. (See the charts at the end of this article) : https://www.garandgear.com/the-m1-garand-and-commercial-ammunition/

Usually I buy remington core lok in 150gr, but even garand specific ammo like ppu jam.

Ive read everything I could find on the web and ive still have not found the cause. The op rod dosent bind and move freely on a tilt test. So far the only ammo that dosent give me trouble is 150 gr winchester powerpoint.

Everything is lightly lubricated and oiled were It should. Gas plug is screw in tight.

At this point I think it could be the barrel. Its the original old worn barrel showing alot of frosting. So the issue could be pressure related, yet why the 7th round? Does the transition between the 6th and 7th required more force to cycle through for some reason that escape me?

Here a link where I posted many pictures of every parts and a video of it stove piping: EDIT: link not working everything is posted below.

So if you know a reliable guy that could help me fixing it (while I still can) that would be much appreciated.
 
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Your link seems dead on my end,

I have seen several 7th round failures due to a week mainspring. Where theres not enough tension in the rounds and the 7th round will fly out of the enbloc and the 8th round will chamber. Or the 7th round will cause a failure to feed.

What is the mainspring length on your rifle by chance?


Im in Edmonton AB and work on Garands a fair bit.
 
Your link seems dead on my end,

I have seen several 7th round failures due to a week mainspring. Where theres not enough tension in the rounds and the 7th round will fly out of the enbloc and the 8th round will chamber. Or the 7th round will cause a failure to feed.

What is the mainspring length on your rifle by chance?


Im in Edmonton AB and work on Garands a fair bit.
For some reason the link wont work here, I fixed it but you need to remove the space after the https. I should Ive mention it but I did swap the spring for a new one bought from amazon, still the issue remain. The original one is 19 1/4 inch.
 
For some reason the link wont work here, I fixed it but you need to remove the space after the https. I should Ive mention it but I did swap the spring for a new one bought from amazon, still the issue remain. The original one is 19 1/4 inch.
19.25" is .25" under what i recommended they be replaced at for safety on the op rod energy side

Id be willing to take a look at it if youd like. If replacing the spring didnt fix it

I still get a error on imgur aswell unfortunately
 
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Very nice. You have some early parts in their.

Timing could be a issue, checked with a 3D printed gauge if you have access to a 3D printer.

Also the follower rod is a early version. They were known to cause some feeding issues if I recall.correctly *edit, closer looking its not the very early ones so it shouldn't be a factor*
 
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Very nice. You have some early parts in their.

Timing could be a issue, checked with a 3D printed gauge if you have access to a 3D printer.

Also the follower rod is a early version. They were known to cause some feeding issues if I recall.correctly
Yes I did my homework before buying, I collect milsurp and this unit seem like a genuine version of an early M1. But with those guns youre never 100% certain.

What do you mean by the timming? When you say a gauge you mean like a go, no go gauge?

Also for the follower rod I know they did a relief cut later to preven cracking but I wasnt aware that they cause feeding issue.
 
Yes I did my homework before buying, I collect milsurp and this unit seem like a genuine version of an early M1. But with those guns youre never 100% certain.

What do you mean by the timming? When you say a gauge you mean like a go, no go gauge?

Also for the follower rod I know they did a relief cut later to preven cracking but I wasnt aware that they cause feeding issue.
Timing for the enbloc release/bolt closure. It is a go/no go gauge thats inserted into.the rifle like a enbloc is. But if your enbloc isn't prematurely unlocking might be a dead end aswell. (Hard to see exactly in your video)

You mention that a certain type of ammo is cycling fine without this issue, im curious if that ammo is "hotter" and giving the rifle more gas to cycle with. And this 7th round failure to feed is fron a short stroke where the bolt doesnt fully clear the round and is causing that tip up and dent.

Any measurements on your op rod Piston tip? Gas cylinder inside diameter is harder to measure unfortunately.
 
Also for the record I also check if the endbloc could be the culprit. Ive read they can cause problem but not specificaly on 7th round like im experiencing and when I measured with a caliper they were withing spec if I remeber correclty. (I only have 3)
 
Timing for the enbloc release/bolt closure. It is a go/no go gauge thats inserted into.the rifle like a enbloc is. But if your enbloc isn't prematurely unlocking might be a dead end aswell. (Hard to see exactly in your video)

You mention that a certain type of ammo is cycling fine without this issue, im curious if that ammo is "hotter" and giving the rifle more gas to cycle with. And this 7th round failure to feed is fron a short stroke where the bolt doesnt fully clear the round and is causing that tip up and dent.

Any measurements on your op rod Piston tip? Gas cylinder inside diameter is harder to measure unfortunately.
I gotta go take care of my kid. Ill take the measurement of the piston head and cylinder and post it later tonight.

Let me know if theres anything else you would like to take a look at.
 
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For the tube I am not able to reach it with this caliper. But theres definetly some play between the head and the tube. Its certainly not air tight. I dont know what the tolerance are supose to be there. Ill try later to do a makeshift gauge by adding layer of tape to a ratchet box until it fit tightly and measure it. If that level of precision is worth it for diagnostic purpose?
 
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