Gunsmith Kinks

[Casull]

Anyone interested in posting any little time savers or how to's here. I enjoy reading the Gunsmith Kinks books by Bob Brownell and I suspect some of you do too. Why not sticky this and post anything that is working for you.

I just posted something over in the Reloading section and I didn't realize others didn't know some small tricks.

For your kinetic bullet pullet hammer. Take the rubber and collet thing out of the top and throw it away. Get the right shellholder for the cartridge you are wanting to pull the bullet from and slide it in and put this in the top of your kinetic hammer and put the lid back on. Works great and a lot faster and easier than the rubber band and collet affair.

I also have had trouble pulling bullets from rounds too big to fit into the kinetic hammer. I used my action wrench as a bullet puller for .577NE. Just closed it up almost tight, dropped the round in and used as a kinetic. Sometimes the hammers are too small for .50 cals and .577 Snider and so on, this should work for that as well. I suspect if one was pulling BMGs and didn't want to mark the bullet, this would work with the shellholder slipped on and then dropped in the action wrench.
Rob

 

[PaulT]

Good idea.. a "Do-IT-Yourself" thread would be nice.

 

[jclayton]

I frequently need to shorten screws for scope bases. Took a piece of 1/8th inch aluminum about an inch wide and four inches long and drilled and tapped it 6x48. Turn the too long screw into the tapped hole. The aluminum strip makes a good holder while you grind or file the screw to the proper length.
jclayton

 

[mooncoon]

I frequently need to shorten screws for scope bases. Took a piece of 1/8th inch aluminum about an inch wide and four inches long
jclayton

If you keep your eyes peeled in antique stores and shows, you might run accross a screw plate. They look something like a pie knife with threaded holes in it. They are hardened steel and usually one of the holes will fit the screw you are shortening. As above, screw in and file off the end.

Second suggestion is I notice people on the list, asking where to get chambering reamers. I make my own as spade bits or D bits that I use in the lathe. Make them out of drill rod or any high carbon steel and heat and quench spinning to avoid warping. Draw the temper to brown and grind them to about .010" proud. It takes 3 - 4 hours to make one but if it is a home job you are doing, it also saves $100+

cheers Doug

 

[Casull]

I just found another one. This little piece of brass bar I had used to make a pin and small part vice. It fit under the rib on a Ruger #1 and popped it off instantly, no marrs, no fuss. The screws have to come out first of course. The little brass pin vice is very handy and easy to make too. Basically run and end mill along the end of the brass bar, then drill and tap and put in knurled screws and a pin or two.