Gunstock

MK2750 said:
It is very hard to determine what exactly is "Danish" "Tung" or even "Linseed" as each manufacturer seems to think it is okay to reinvent the wheel.

It seems that over the years they took it upon themselves to add more and more poly type hardeners, I assume to satisfy the impatient.

Danish oil, I believe, started as a blend of Tung oil mixed with a hint of poly. The last stuff I bought was Linseed based and hardened faster than Truoil, ironically also not a true oil.

The problem I found is that the product protects the wood outer finish but offers little protection to the internal wood. A stock can dry out from the inside out due to a lack of penetration.

I like to match the product I use with the pure original version, cut to penetrate. If the product I want to finish with is Tung oil based I start with pure Tung oil cut to penetrate. I apply this, sometimes for weeks. I am especially careful to let it soak into all areas even if that area is to be covered by a recoil pad etc. After I am satisfied I use the already suggested procedures above.

YRMV but I have found the end result has much more depth and is much more durable

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Looks like you did a nice piece of wood (2 piece set) justice. Good work!
 
The trick is to wet sand the stock with the Danish oil until you get a mud (400 day 1 /600 day 2/800 day 3/1000 day 4) Then wipe down. If one area drys before you are done wet sanding the entire stock, put more on until the entire stock is muddy and wet. Then wipe down with a lint free cloth, toothbrush out the mud and product out of the checkering. Go with the grain for the 400/600, then circular with the finer stuff. It will be like glass. Then if you want more shine stop the sanding and keep applying the product and wipe off until it shines. I like Danish oil but Minwax antique oil has less stain and is easier to work with imo. Patience pays. The first coat doesn’t do it justice. Good luck!

This 7mag Adl was beat but turned out quite nice with some time and patience.
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Buckmastr said:
The trick is to wet sand the stock with the Danish oil until you get a mud (400 day 1 /600 day 2/800 day 3/1000 day 4) Then wipe down. If one area drys before you are done wet sanding the entire stock, put more on until the entire stock is muddy and wet. Then wipe down with a lint free cloth, toothbrush out the mud and product out of the checkering. Go with the grain for the 400/600, then circular with the finer stuff. It will be like glass. Then if you want more shine stop the sanding and keep applying the product and wipe off until it shines. I like Danish oil but Minwax antique oil has less stain and is easier to work with imo. Patience pays. The first coat doesn’t do it justice. Good luck!

This 7mag Adl was beat but turned out quite nice with some time and patience.
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Wet sanding & wipedown. Best advice i had in this thread.
Thank you sir.
 
Brutus said:
Thank you very much friend.
Is it the same answer for Johnson furniture wax?
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Ummmm yes butttt, Johnson's Paste Wax, especially when it's applied hot will penetrate but not deep.

Where in Canada can you find Johnson's Paste Wax? You can't find it in Canada but it's available in the US.

Johnsons "Furniture" Wax is likely the same thing???

Kiwi Shoe Polish, in the metal tin also makes for a nice finish that is easily kept up but it also doesn't penetrate deep and as such doesn't last and needs to be reapplied after a rainy outing etc. It's also best applied after being heated to a melted state.
 
Brutus said:
Maybe I am looking in the wrong place?
But everything I see online for 5-0 or 6-0 very fine steel wool, is discontinued or unavailable to us little people.
Body shops will not sell me this product.
Waiting to hear back from the Huterites.

Edit: I found a source of up to 3000 grit sandpaper.
All is good !!!
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Anyplace that sells auto paint and supplies should have it , Napa, etc I seen 3000 g sandpaper in Ca Tire as well
I have just seen 0000 steel wool, Use to have some finer yrs ago, when I was doing more blueing.
I also have used different grits of 3M pads, white is the finest, gray is OK, do not buy no name china crap from PA, thou that's OK for rusty iron.
Not any good to flatten a finish. I have not checked for a bit, but I have seen paper to 8000 or10,000 grit at Lee Valley, I use some to lap blades, once in a while.
I don't know why some think 8 coats is funny, I have used 12 at times, depends on the gun and type /grade of wood.
Mainly with pure tung oil, BTW Tung oil in the cans sold by MinWax, circa1859 is NOT pure tung oil
When you buy walnut Danish oil, that is clear with a brown stain in it, Good on walnut boxes etc.
 
Just like Tung or Truoil, or anything else. Thin it down and apply in very light coats till you’re happy with it. Buff, sand, polish, etc for a more shiny or satin finish. Don’t overthink it - it’s just a piece of wood. Good luck and have fun! This can be a really rewarding project when it turns out nice.
 
That's why I like raw linseed, takes a long time, but it protects great.
I used the Lee Valley Danish oil on a butcher block counter top 1 time due to the "food safe" qualities, had cracks within a year, still looked like it was just finished but it lets the wood dry out way too quickly, and it had many coats at Instal and afterwards.
 
Uhm. My novice approach on full display here. I have wet sanded up to seven coats with 24 hour dry period in between.
Can I subdue this down 0000 steel wool then power buff it to a more satin finish?
I prefer to not live with a shiny polymer finish but I will surrender if I have to.

Thank you.....
 
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