Hairline crack tang

I had been assuming that you were working with a Mauser 98 - once again, look what ASSUMING got me! I have not seen that recoil set up before - not what I was expecting to see - some sort of rear split bridge, perhaps a Mannlicher or similar? Somehow, your receiver must have a ledge that interfaces with a face in your stock. Suggestion was to put a shim between receiver ledge and stock abutment - but, again, your picture is not what I expected to see, so I will just back on out and hope somebody who actually knows can advise how to proceed!! What I see of that minor crack could be nicely dealt with by the hidden technique mentioned above, and just a thinnest slice to provide clearance for that tang. All for not, though, if the receiver moves back under recoil...
 
You are correct it is a carcano carbine. The receiver doesn’t move much at all with the screws out, might have a couple thou of play of that. I think relieving the tang to wood contact will stop this crack from moving. It is very small and quite superficial
 
MattE93 said:
Between the recoil lug on the receiver and the metal inlay in the stock? I don’t think I have room to skip anything between the wood and metal on the stock
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When things are tight but there’s a #### hair of space I have been successful cutting a piece of an aluminum from a beer or pop can as a shim, or a piece of aluminum duct tape. Both are really thin.
 
purple said:
Yes, cut one and trial fit. You can try thicker ones as necessary. I'd start with a shim from a Diet Coke can(extra thin you know).;)
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Always up for a good pun! Thanks guys. I checked tonight. I put the action screws in but didn’t torque them down so the action was fully tight. I then tried moving the receiver in the stock and there was some play. I then measured the thickness of the recoil lug on the receiver and the size of the inlay with the metal insert to see if they matched up. The difference was about a thousandth of an inch. If I shim the lug then I’ll have about a thousand of clearance between tang and wrist. I’ll then relieve a little more wood to have about a .0015 to .002 gap. The crack is very superficial and shouldn’t move if I do those.

Upon inspecting the buttplate crack it was actually a small chip that was starting to lift. I decided to clamp it down gently to not mar the stock and used some hot stuff super glue then let it set up. This glue worked great and wicked deep into the crack. After removing the clamp it is rock solid and not going anywhere
 
Alright so I got a shim made up and now the recoil lug has little to no play and I have some space between the tang and wood. How much space do I actually need? Here is a pic to help

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+ on Chair Doctor. The thing to remember with it is to wash out the syringes really well with lots of hot water after use, or the glue will ruin them. (Luckily this is very easy - just squirt hot water out of the syringe a bunch of times. )
 
If you do get one a bit bunged up, welding tip cleaners work wonders to remove the blockages. Not that I've ever had to deal with that, of course... :slap:
 
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