An old novice here, folks, and requesting information re: the handloading of 28-gauge shells. I don't ever expect to need to make shells in a speedy manner-have read a couple of manuals from Ballistic Products and still trying to weigh the advantages of making my own or buying them. I'm mainly a hunter but like to pattern precisely with many chokes to become comfortable with where the pellets are going. Thanks for any and all advice.
Handloading 28-gauge
- Thread starter Wishalot
- Start date
It makes a lot of sense to reload 28 gauge. Factory ammo is expensive and depending where you are sometimes hard to find. How much sense it makes depends on how much you are planning to shoot.
For someone who hasn't loaded shotgun shells I'd suggest three things: A MEC 600 Jr, a good scale and the Lyman Shotshell Reloading manual. The MEC single stage is not fast but it is a proven, reliable loader and when used properly it is impossible to double charge a shell. The Lyman manual has excellent instructions on how to work the MEC loader. The scale is because the bushings don't always drop the powder charge the charts claim they will.
That's about a $300 investment, less if you buy used although 28 gauge loaders aren't that common on the used market. Compare that to factory ammo based against a $3-$4 cost for a box of reloads.
For someone who hasn't loaded shotgun shells I'd suggest three things: A MEC 600 Jr, a good scale and the Lyman Shotshell Reloading manual. The MEC single stage is not fast but it is a proven, reliable loader and when used properly it is impossible to double charge a shell. The Lyman manual has excellent instructions on how to work the MEC loader. The scale is because the bushings don't always drop the powder charge the charts claim they will.
That's about a $300 investment, less if you buy used although 28 gauge loaders aren't that common on the used market. Compare that to factory ammo based against a $3-$4 cost for a box of reloads.
- Location
- Ft. Mac. Alberta
That says it all right there!!
One thing I would also do is get an adjustable bar right off the hop, because I found if I change shot size i need to adjust the amount of shot dropped, and one cannot always find the size they want or sometimes a larger size is needed.
Same with powder, as was stated, the bushing does not always drop what it is supposed to.
I use a MEC 600JR for my hunting ammo, but for a very long time I used it for my target stuff as well.
I bought a progressive however because i shoot far more than some and do not want to spend every waking moment at the press, what with my boy shooting a 28 as well!
You will not go wrong with a bunch of or AAHS or comparable OEM wads , AAHS hulls and Longshot powder , BTW!
Cat
Clay and Cat - Thanks! I have been thinking about that Lyman manual and will likely get it before I start hunting the MEC reloader and study up a bit more. I kind of wish I had started this quest a little earlier in life but, oh, well, I now have a reason to be called a " silly old fool "
You may want to consider having a look at the Ponsness Warren single stage presses, they are the model 375, you can often pick them up used fairly reasonably, and if the price is right it doesn't have to be in 28 gauge, as conversions are available.
If you only want to ever load one gauge, the MEC is cheaper, but if you want to load a couple, the PW is slick to change, and the tool sets are very reasonable.
I find the PW's to be much more pleasant to operate, and just feel better then the MEC's, they also seem to load a bit faster. That said, the quality of the ammo you make will be excellent off either machine if you do your part.
The other advice you received on this thread from cat and claybuster is also right on the money.
Edit:
I just wanted to add it's neat to find someone asking these questions who has actually read a manual first to get some idea of where they are headed. Kudo's for doing that.
If you only want to ever load one gauge, the MEC is cheaper, but if you want to load a couple, the PW is slick to change, and the tool sets are very reasonable.
I find the PW's to be much more pleasant to operate, and just feel better then the MEC's, they also seem to load a bit faster. That said, the quality of the ammo you make will be excellent off either machine if you do your part.
The other advice you received on this thread from cat and claybuster is also right on the money.
Edit:
I just wanted to add it's neat to find someone asking these questions who has actually read a manual first to get some idea of where they are headed. Kudo's for doing that.
- Location
- Ft. Mac. Alberta
I also use a lot of BPI wads and data, BTW, I like their HV28 wad for a huntign load of 7/8oz of nickel plated lead and 30 grains of H110 with a BPI hull, but that is only for pheasants.
Cat
Cat
Hi: I suggest if you are buying a MEC get a size master to start with since it has the auto primer feature which makes a difference or a 600JR that someone has put the auto primer on.Also the collet style resizer on the sizemaster works much better over the JR reshaping ring.
I loaded probally 7500 28ga a year on a mec single stage before getting my 9000 g with no problems at all.
Take your time when reloading is the key. take care
Agreed on the primer feed. I've got one on my 600 and it's a definite improvement.
Thanks, again, Cat and all for replies - a wealth of info. here. I like that nickel plated lead load and prefer not to use steel - will not be hunting waterfowl with the 28 gauge - mostly rabbits and grouse. I guess that is the advantage with handloading - the freedom to choose
