hard to load.38sp

[daniellybbert]

i just started loading .357 and .38sp but the slugs arent going into the caseing theur just catching an edge and f***ing my brass and slug and primer whats the problem ( not like loading boattails)

 

[RePete]

You haven't flared the case mouth, that's why you're shaving the lead.

Add some flare to the case.

RePete.

 

[doc25]

Yes, more flare and when you put the bullet on the case it should sit in it a little ways before you pull the lever. If you look at the case mouth after its been flared it should be noticeably flared.

 

[44Bore]

The trick is to get just enough flare that you can seat the bullet without shaving lead or crumpling the case--also helps if you chamfer the sharp edge on the inside of the case. If you put too much flare on the case you will shorten the life of the brass considerably due to cracks developing at the mouth of the case.

44Bore

 

[sunray]

You'll work harden the case mouth no matter how much flare you use. However, bell/flare the case mouth just enough for the bullet to sit in it. When they start splitting, pitch the split ones and anneal the rest.
Oh and you bell/flare the case mouth with the Expander die. Resize and deprime all your cases then change dies. You can reprime at the same time if you're set up to do so.

 

[guninhand]

If you are loading lead bullets, for best results you should use the Lyman M die for the .38 cal special. The die not only flares the case, but opens the case more so that the case tension does not grip so tight as to distort the bullet. Dies are usually designed to size for reloading with jacketed bullets.

 

[daniellybbert]

thanks that was the problem

 

[2bad4u2]

While the advice mentioned above is sound, I would suggest you forget about annealing .38 Spl. cases. They're so cheap that it would hardly make the effort worth the while amd you can often get cases for free. Plus, you'll likely never see many case neck splits anyways providing that you don't excessively bell the case as noted above.