Has anyone ever made a two piece rifle barrel?

according to graphs of pressure traces, pressure at 12" or so would be about half.

when I first looked at this, I thought a smooth bore to the end of the first piece, and a cone to the rifling for the second. a good supply of threads it should hold. grind some flats so two wrenches can by used to take 'em apart. RH rifling would keep it on.

the other thought I had was if this is just for being able to put into a small storage container.... just get a Handi rifle, cut the barrel off, buy a blank, stub the barrel and make it to what ever length you need. put a "Snap On" forend A La shotgun... shorten the stock so the overall length is legal, and make a tool to remove the stock easy, keep that tool in the forearm. You'd have to calculate between barrel length, receiver length, and stock length to keep the OAL legal.

chamber it in something like 357Max, or 44SSM and you'd have a tool that could take almost any game within 100 yds, and deer out to 200-250yds.

HMM.... now I've got myself thinking
 
BCRider said:
We can't do this anyway. With a two piece barrel there's no way to prevent it being able to fire with only the root extension. And that would be too short a barrel by our laws unless done by the maker. And if the stock also breaks down into parts it would need to be in a way that makes it impossible to put together the two middle parts and get a fireable gun that is less than 26 inches.
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Unless done by the barrel maker.... exactly.. Stub a barrel and make it as short as you want, keeping the OAL legal, and you'd be good to go.

I don't understand your last comment. a two piece stocked rifle can be fired without the buttstock, and that is still a legal proposition. Ie// 12" barrel on a No1Mk3
 
The rifling would not have to line up perfectly. My Sten gun barrel is made from two chopped barrels welded together. Poor job. the rifling does not line up and the barrel is banana shaped. But is shoots quite accurately I can hit a pop can at 25 yards.

The pressure 12" from the chamber would be down a lot. Think 35Rem. It would be an interesting project. I would let you test fire it.
 
There is a gun smith in Texas has done it a few times I know for a fact. BUT I do not think he is doing them any more as they are very hard to make and as far as I know he only built three... I could talk to my Bud and see my take a day or two but I cannot see them being legal in Canada as you take the barrel off your pistol put an extention on add the barrel back, take the pistol grip off and thread a rifle stalk on.
 
nanuk said:
when I first looked at this, I thought a smooth bore to the end of the first piece, and a cone to the rifling for the second. a good supply of threads it should hold. grind some flats so two wrenches can by used to take 'em apart. RH rifling would keep it on.
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Both the Germans and the Brits deployed squeeze-bore antitank systems in WW2. Two problems come to mind with that proposal. The first is obturation. The smooth-bore first portion would have to be very tight to keep gas from leaking around the bullet. That's probably easy enough to solve. The second problem would ne a sudden pressure spike when the barrel diameter gets in effect reduced by the lands (the lands can't be the same diameter as that of the smooth-bore part for the same reason, obturation. Even with the somewhat reduced pressure from being further down the barrel, that area would have to be substantial. Not a killer, but something not to be ignored.
 
porpoise said:
sure it could be done its done on tanks and even if thats not comparable it could be done.
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They (88's at least) used a keyed liner to align the rifling and an inner and outer tube and the various locking collars - but was done ... good for you!
 
ATOM said:
Both the Germans and the Brits deployed squeeze-bore antitank systems in WW2. Two problems come to mind with that proposal. The first is obturation. The smooth-bore first portion would have to be very tight to keep gas from leaking around the bullet. That's probably easy enough to solve. The second problem would ne a sudden pressure spike when the barrel diameter gets in effect reduced by the lands (the lands can't be the same diameter as that of the smooth-bore part for the same reason, obturation. Even with the somewhat reduced pressure from being further down the barrel, that area would have to be substantial. Not a killer, but something not to be ignored.
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obturation would be taken care of by the bullet size.
the second barrel would indeed need a "Leade" to a reduced diameter for the rifling but the smoothbore/groove diameter need not change.

as for a pressure spike, it would be minimal, as the bullet would have a great running start, and pressure would be low at that point, so any small spike would still be small, MUCH smaller than at the chamber leade
 
I know ... old thread ....

but I was thinking with a 2 barrel system could not the first barrel be a tight fitting smooth bore then the second half be rifled with some sort of forcing cone similar to a revolver , but threaded at the joint . or maybe a modified pipe union of sorts forcing a tapered steel face into a softer brass face , with enough surface area of the matting surfaces to seal under high pressure .
 
Been done at the factory for a .22 revolver. Had it in my hands awhile ago at a friends house but cant remember what it was, either S&W or Colt. The barrel had no rifling in the first section which was about 3" or 4". It was obviously made in two pieces. chromed/nickel
 
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