Hatsan MPA cycling issue?

Buzzballer

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Hi every one,

I just received a new to me Hatsan MPA-TS that has had approximately 100 rounds through it. (Or a relatively low number). Today I was able to take it outside and test fire it using Winchester universal 2 3/4 #4 shot, but it did not cycle the action at all and required manual cycling to eject the hull.

Has any one found any type of target load that works well with these shotguns? This is my first semi auto, and I am going to go get some 00 on Monday and try that.

Any ideas?
 
I had the same problem until I checked the schematics for the gas assembly - it had been put together in the wrong order.

It came (from the factory) with spring, rubber o-ring, piston, in that order (from the rear toward the front of the gun). The correct order is spring, piston, o-ring.

Once I put it together in the right order, it has cycled everything from the lightest target loads on up.

If I get a chance tonight I'll take some pictures. I'm heading to the range tomorrow, and need to put in some garage time getting a few things ready.
 
Here we go...

Pictures describe it better than words:

hatsan_wrong.jpg


hatsan_correct.jpg


Take a look there first. Apparently, it's quite common for the assembly chimps (one of the lower forms of factory primates) to put these on in the wrong order.

It really messed with me, because I'm a guy, ergo: instructions are for chumps. When I took it apart and cleaned it, I just took care to put everything back together in the same order. My first day at the range was an excercise in frustration. It would cycle really hot loads (HV 00 Buck, HV Slugs), but not even 34 heavy game loads reliably, let alone target loads.

Came home, did some googling, and discovered that this was a common issue.

Seems like such a simple thing, that really shouldn't make that huge a difference, but it does. That O-Ring helps to create an initial seal that builds just enough extra pressure to really get things going.

After that, everything runs great. Beat the piss out of that gun at a couple of 3-gun matches, not so much as a hickup (and all we're allowed to use at our club 3-gun matches is #7.5 or #8 target loads, for safety reasons. We shoot steel at close ranges in those matches - don't want bounce back from larger pellets.)
 
Also please take a paper clip and see if the gas port is not plugged with lead residue from a slug.
Another thing with Turkish shotguns that needs checking is to see if gas piston is proper fitting with the gas port on the barrel. If it is too tight take some steel wool and smooth it
 
Polish that mag tube whole it's all apart too. After you complete the above checks and a good polishing, it will cycle light targets loads no problem.
 
I polished the mag tube and checked the assembly of the gas tube. What solved my problem was never using zinc headed target loads. Brass headed target loads run my gun fine.
 
I polished the mag tube and checked the assembly of the gas tube. What solved my problem was never using zinc headed target loads. Brass headed target loads run my gun fine.

It was just the Winchester ammo not the zinc heads. If try Federal, Remington, Challenger or Score with similar zinc they will work fine.
 
Hey guys, thanks very much for chiming in with your suggestions. I had the chance to take the gas system apart last night and it seemed to be assembled correctly. However based on the video I was watching online where his O ring he put in to the lower ring (where the gas system is) on the Barrel. My O ring was a lot tighter and required me to roll it on to the magazine tube. Just like yours Grelmar (or as it appears in your photo) I noticed the gas system was very dirty and the port might be potentially clogged up.

I will swing by sail and try and get some different target loads and give the whole system a good cleaning and lubrication as it was bone dry and very dirty when I went to proof fire it (which is how I got it).

I'll give the above suggestions and shot and see where it gets me.
 
Anything Turkish is crap.
You get what you pay for.
I'd feel better off buying goods from communist China than Turkey anyway.
 
Anything Turkish is crap.
You get what you pay for.
I'd feel better off buying goods from communist China than Turkey anyway.

Which is, of course, why Weatherby, Benelli, even Beretta get a large percentage of their shotguns made in Turkey. Because we know those companies have a horrible reputation and prefer to make the crappiest guns possible.

Idjit.
 
Personally, any company or foreign manufacture that wants to produce more firearms for us is a good thing.

Now for an update. Thank you so much for the comments so far. I tore down the shotgun and gave it a through cleaning, as it turns out it really was not that bad but was more or less bone dry. One thing we noticed upon looking at the front of the gas system, (the cylinder attached to the bottom of the barrel) is there were some incredibly rough machine marks on its inside surface. So using 400 then 600 emery cloth we cleaned up the rough edges and polished it up. At the 6 o'clock position there was a gouge out of the steel that looks like a drill bit had hit it, so once again we cleaned that up so that the piston would slide in much better with out a rough gritty feeling. The magazine tube was given a quick polish and the face of the gas piston had a lot of etching in on it, possibly from poor machining? From a low round count shotgun I have no idea what would cause pitting marks. But it was cleaned up and any parts requiring lube were given a light skim.

68D055B0-CF72-443E-8B51-B0962BF90D26.jpg

You can see the pitting and the assembly. A video online shows the owner putting his O ring inside the cylinder at the front of the barrel before sliding it on to the magazine tube. But my O Ring is slightly to small for some reason to fit in the groove provided so it has to fit on the magazine as shown.

2CF9ACC6-34B1-4594-BF78-E286BE615F50.jpg

You can see the pitting and the gouge in the bottom of it. its smooth now however.

On reassembly and test firing today, the MPA seems to cycle 12Ga 2 3/4" 00 magnum rounds with no problem, six in a row with not even a hiccup. But when loaded with Winchester #4 or Champion #7.5 the action seems to not have enough gas to fully open. It will attempt to cycle but the majority of the time it just loads the spent hull back in to battery. Once it almost ejected it but the tip of the hull was caught on the side of the receiver.
D799E064-D05B-4D85-8A83-F775B304E6AD.jpg

It seems that a high powered amount of gas has no issue cycling the action but a lower amount seems to not open it enough to eject the round.

Upon removing the hand guard, it seems that the piston has about 1/4" play forward and backward. The Return spring and what I would call the operating rod (connects to the bolt) don't seem to push the piston (smart valvue?) all the way forward to a full lock. You can move it forward and back ward 1/4" as i said.
19873783-C35C-45E1-89EA-30EF1DFAFCCF.jpg


Now when i Install the barrel it requires that I push back the bolt, as the bolt creates a forward pressure on the barrel which is held in by the hand guard and extension. In that last picture I am pushing the bolt back with the barrel to where it normally would sit, but that 1/4 play still existed forward and backwards on the piston.

Does any one have any ideas? I guess I could try a new 0 Ring if I can one. As some one mentioned the gas ports from the barrel seem to be clean and allowed for a tool to be pushed through cleanly.

Would any one else be able to look at there gas system and see if it has that play behind the piston (smart valvue) and does the barrel require you to push the bolt back 1/2" when you install it, and is the charging handle sitting in about the same place?
140A0415-19A6-4922-A23C-2EB6E68C6D71.jpg

Thanks!
 
try running magnum slugs for the next 200 rounds or so. it needs to be broken in. after that it will cycle the target loads fine.. also keep that gas system DRY. no oil whatsoever... the o ring should have very thin coat of oil on it to keep the rubber from drying up and cracking
 
Buzz, firing a box of shells with that shotgun and then just putting in storage for a year or so could cause the pitting.
Even more so if the only box of shells was put through the gun in sub zero temperatures and then brought inside and put away without cleaning.

Result? Pitting on a gun that has only shot a box of shells.

After I polished up the tube on mine I sprayed some bostick spray that is for table saw tops and planers. It makes metal surfaces slick with a dry film.
There are other sprays that do them same thing.

S&J Hardware should have some o rings.
 
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I ended up using a dry film lube on the piston its self but CLP on the magazine tube. I guess the best thing to do at this point would be to clean it again, make sure I only use a dry spray minimally and not touch the piston. And then fire a bunch of slugs and magnum loads and see how it works after it's been broken in. Any one know a cheap source of buck or slugs? Haha.
 
The available cheap slugs are usually low recoil sport loads from Dominion or S&B, unless you get the Score ones from AmmoSupply which are great slugs. I've got a few cases of those, and even more of the aforementioned brands too.
 
I have the exact optima shotgun, when using the winchester 100 round packs from Walmart or Canadian Tire - I usually get a lot of ftes. The hulls stovepipe in the ejection port like every time, I save these for use in my pumps. I use high brass or Score target and they work fine. When I checked the position of the rubber o-ring it is on the piston before the first groove, yet the pics show it on the magazine tube in front of the piston. I wonder if this is the correct position.
 
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