Have you ever dremeled a ruger 10/22 factory stock?

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MartyK2500

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I was just wondering if i'm alone to find the smell quite nasty. Even if it produced no smoke i almost feel sick from all this.

I dremeled the factory stock of a 10/22 in an experiment, it turned out looking good but performing real bad.
I used the sand paper roll tip of a dremel, and enlarged the channel to free float a bull barrel. I had even drilled and tapped the front and installed a sling swivel. While in theory this would make an accurate setup, the receiver is just too loose in the stock to be accurate. The old barrel band was actually helping to hold things together tight.
Now have a hogue overmould .920'' on order, wanstall has got a great price on these right now, even better than the EE.

What are your experiences on attempting to make a factory stock accurate?
 
MartyK2500 said:
What are your experiences on attempting to make a factory stock accurate?
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Throwing it in the garbage and buying a good aftermarket stock usually works best for me. The stock needs to be bedded in order to squeeze any accuracy improvement out of it. That would solve your issue provided the forend doesn't touch the barrel, or is properly pressure bedded. Pressure bedding only works with a stiff forend that doesn't flex. Since you've ordered the hogue anyways there isn't much use trying to get the factory stock to work. As for removing lots of material from both wood and synthetic stocks I use a very coarse set of rotary files designed for chewing on soft materials. Takes so much less time. I don't think they make anything like that in a 1/8" shank for your dremel, mine are 1/4" for my pneumatic die grinders.
 
I think i figured out what you did here. That big washer sticking out each side is to give a 2nd pressure point to the stock? (other than the flat headscrew underneat)
My guess is that you replaced one of the two main trigger group pins, with something that really holds the receiver to the stock?
 
There's a nice rotary file bit that Dremel makes. Works great for shaving plastics, I've used it to alter ATI stocks and trim down the sharp edges on some Savage factory jobs. No burning, just annoying static cling plastic sawdust.
 
elimsprint, thanks for the link. I will order one, and i might just drop it in that hogue stock. Couldn't hurt to have the receiver double secured. I might just test accuray too before drilling a potentially resselable item.

kennymo, i will definatly look into this before modding plastic stocks ever again. The headache that was caused by that crappy factory stock was not much fun, i imagine it took a few brain cells with it too.
 
MartyK2500 said:
elimsprint, thanks for the link. I will order one, and i might just drop it in that hogue stock. Couldn't hurt to have the receiver double secured. I might just test accuray too before drilling a potentially resselable item.

kennymo, i will definatly look into this before modding plastic stocks ever again. The headache that was caused by that crappy factory stock was not much fun, i imagine it took a few brain cells with it too.
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I don't think you can order from RT as they don't have export licences and I don't know anyone that carries their stuff that ships up here. If you do find somewhere please let me know as I want some more of their stuff.
That said, the bedding system is not really easy to install, about as fiddly as glass bedding but it works like nothing else available IMO.
I posted those pictures not to show the bedding system but to show what could be done to the stock wood stocks, which both of those started life as, instead of just the usual hogging out of the barrel channel and call it a day.
They can be truly accurate and comfortable stocks if you just let them.:)
Kim
 
I used a couple lengths of ready rod of differing diameters, wrapped in a coarse, then finer paper, to hog out a factory CRR 'hardwood' stock to clearance a Green Mountian .920 barrel. It is now a 'free-floating' barrel, insofar as I can slide a sheet of paper from the front of the stock, almost to the receiver without getting snagged. The long lengths of ready rod kept the sanding channel fairly uniform, and also made pretty quick work of it.
 
Almost any sort of plastic will melt and produce noxious gases if you run any sort of tool on it at high speed. And a Dremel certainly qualifies for "high speed" even if you dial it down a lot. Even the STARTING speed, which is pretty much useless as there's so little torque, is too high unless you lug it down.

If you really must do this sort of stuff on plastics go with a hand drill hooked up to a flex shaft. The flex shaft will provide the small diameter hand piece to let you get into the work and the hand drill will give you all the torque at a moderate speed to aid in not melting and gassing off the plastic.

Myself? For working plastics I'm a big fan of using coarse metal files or wood rasps just to avoid the smells and issues of power tools around plastics. The coarse teeth of these tools when new and fresh work great on plastics. I've got a separate set of coarse files that I use just for wood and plastic. They never see metal so they cut well and last for ages.
 
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