Headspacing a Cooey....

To do properly, the barrel would be taken off, set back and then the chamber re-cut with a suitable reamer, along with headspace gauges.
In reality, you can get by with adding or taking away metal on the back end of the bolt handle. If you have to add, take the bolt apart and use heat sinks.
 
Thanks for the reply. Appears to be a costly process to have it done right. I can see doing to bolt handle process though.... Regards.
 
Since Cooeys with the bolts misplaced are a common problem in Canada, I am betting that at least one attempt has been made to tighten up headspace by spotwelding the locking lug recess in the receiver, and carefully fitting the locking lug to the receiver again with needle files.

Your mileage may vary.

Just throwing the idea out there - it can't be that expensive for a welder to put a spotweld in your receiver.

The locking lug is brazed to the bolt body - risk of contamination if weld is introduced to the area?

We are talking about a utility firearm here, not a rare elephant gun.

Stay safe and get that Cooey going! Your grandpa will look down on you with an approving look on his face. :)
 
Easiest fix is to build up the lug recess in the receiver. then remove metal until headspace correct. Did this to a 39 and result was amazing accuracy.
 
Well, the Cooeys usually headspace on the rim, if it is out, it is usually out on the: "sloppy side." On the Cooey single shots & repeater .22s, the rim rests on the face of the breech end of the barrel.

The bolt head is counterbored to accomodate the full thickness of the rim, which is around plus or minus .040" if I am not mistaken.

Headspace is a bit different for bottle-necked and rimless rounds.

If the headspace is sloppy, it can cause problems.

such as:

vertical stringing of groups

light primer strikes.
 
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