Help and Advice needed on fixing safety and magazine plate on a bolt action rifle

rabbits said:
Trigger safety mechanism stuck. Not sure what to do as I haven't taken one of these apart. I dont want to break anything so will wait to hear from you guys. When I try to move the slide backwards it only moves 3 mm and stops. First photo slide all the way forward. Second photo slide as far back as it will go without forcing it. Nothing looks bent that I can see. It the last photo you can see a second piece of metal like a tab (upper right) that slides when you move the safety. It does not appear stuck but doesn't move past a certain point. Maybe that will help some of you recognize the type of safety?

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Looking at these pictures. Look at the tab that rises up into the bolt body. When you have the safety latch fully forward, that roll pin is at the very rear of its slot. When you slide the safety rearward, it appears that the underside of the rising tab has bumped up to the slot, and that would stop it from rising any more. As previously stated, I have similar safeties with thumb pieces that look like that, but the guts of this safety are different than I have seen on mausers. So, verify that there is actually a slot that is long enough for that bolt locking tab to rise all the way up - if not, that safety and that receiver do not belong together, without further modification.
 
To help clarify for OP, I have taken two pictures of a Parker Hale rifle, built on the same Mauser 98 action, with the bolt locking tab, in this case on the Parker Hale safety.

From the top, with safety fully to rear - "on" - that tab has risen as high has it goes, which will be into the notch on the bolt body. Notice how far back it has travelled in its arc.

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Here is that rifle's bolt, with the shroud in the "fired" position - the half-moon shaped notch in the bolt body is visible, and the relief that Parker Hale does to the underside of the safety side of the shroud is visible.

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Does the action need to be cocked in order to have the safety slide into the Safe position?

Just mentioning that. Without poking around that particular trigger, dunno if the sear being too high might jam things up and prevent the safety from working.
Aside from any bent bits.

If the bottom metal plate is steel, easy enough to have repaired, if it is die cast pot metal or aluminum, not so much. Not that the stuff cannot be welded, it's just a right pain in the butt to get it to come out looking good.
 
A bedding job gone so horribly wrong that trying to tighten the action screws results in broken bottom metal.
Nice.

Your trader rating is justified.
I sure know whom I won't be purchasing anything from.

Ouch.
 
Thanks. What you said made a lightbulb go off for me. I hadn't realised how the bedding job was the cause of the broken guard until you said it. That makes perfect sense. The seller didn't say if he did the job or bought it that way. But he had it for 7 years at least and didn't do a function test before he sold it to me. How could he have not known? That's probably why he was using a one shot follower in it.

Oh well. At least I've got some education with it and with the awesome help around here I'm sure I'll get it fixed. Of course I bought it to shoot it not to start my gunsmithing education. But we can't always get what we want :)



kamlooky said:
A bedding job gone so horribly wrong that trying to tighten the action screws results in broken bottom metal.
Nice.

Your trader rating is justified.
I sure know whom I won't be purchasing anything from.

Ouch.
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trevj said:
Does the action need to be cocked in order to have the safety slide into the Safe position?

Just mentioning that. Without poking around that particular trigger, dunno if the sear being too high might jam things up and prevent the safety from working.
Aside from any bent bits.

If the bottom metal plate is steel, easy enough to have repaired, if it is die cast pot metal or aluminum, not so much. Not that the stuff cannot be welded, it's just a right pain in the butt to get it to come out looking good.
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Thanks Trejv. I'm not sure. When it was I side the stock with action Cocked it still didn't work. I think the guard is some kind of soft pot metal just looking at it. I dont weld so won't be trying to fix it. I'll throw it out unless someone wants it just to practice welding on it. I'm happy to give it to them and ship it on my dime for all the help I've gotten around here.
 
Potashminer said:
To help clarify for OP, I have taken two pictures of a Parker Hale rifle, built on the same Mauser 98 action, with the bolt locking tab, in this case on the Parker Hale safety.

From the top, with safety fully to rear - "on" - that tab has risen as high has it goes, which will be into the notch on the bolt body. Notice how far back it has travelled in its arc.

View attachment 311775

Here is that rifle's bolt, with the shroud in the "fired" position - the half-moon shaped notch in the bolt body is visible, and the relief that Parker Hale does to the underside of the safety side of the shroud is visible.

View attachment 311779
Click to expand...

Thanks Potashminer for all your comments on this. They've been invaluable. When I'm home I'll take a look at it again in light of what you've said. I'm leaning towards buying a new timey trigger after I take this apart to see how it works inside. I just dont know how to choose a new one that I'm sure will fit and I can get one with a different working safety?
 
If you decide to replace the bottom metal, it is extremely (!!!!) unlikely that you will get one that fits with the existing bottom metal, you are gonna be digging out all that epoxy :(
 
sean69 said:
If you decide to replace the bottom metal, it is extremely (!!!!) unlikely that you will get one that fits with the existing bottom metal, you are gonna be digging out all that epoxy :(
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Not sure I have a choice. Welding the old piece seems like a pita and not sure it could be made to fit either post weld?
 
rabbits said:
Not sure I have a choice. Welding the old piece seems like a pita and not sure it could be made to fit either post weld?
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It's very unlikely you would be able to get that piece welded anyway - too small/thin you would need someone pretty good to not blow it apart. that and when metal snaps like that ... even if you did, you are right, it would take a lot of filing to get it to fit again.
 
It's pot metal or aluminum... and extremely difficult to do a repair that would look good. It would require anodizing or painting as well...
 
Get a new piece, rather than fixing the cracked one. You may have to sand/file a little epoxy out, but it a simple task that will only take a few minutes to do.
 
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