Help! Barrel identification

RangeRover

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The barrel pictured below came with a bunch of other items I acquired. I'm out of my depth in this area, so would welcome assistance here to help me identify what this barrel is for. I'm hoping the markings and profile shown in the photos pins it down. Black stuff on the threads is simply tape residue. Thanks in advance.

Chambered in 7mm-08.


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I would guesstimate that was a bead blasted, likely stainless of some kind, barrel blank that was set up for something with a separate recoil lug - like Remington 788 or Remington 700. For someone to want to "screw it in", you would likely want fairly accurate dimensions of those barrel tenon threads - external diameter and threads per inch, plus probably length of the threaded area. Some barrels like that may simply screw in snug and headspace appropriately - other barrels like that might take some fussing to get headspace, bolt face clearance, etc. to match up with any particular bolt and receiver. It appears to be more or less "straight" "tapered" profile, so if it was to replace a "skinnier" barrel, would likely need to scrape out the existing stock barrel channel for it to fit and clearance. My guess, anyway.

Your second picture shows what might be a serial number - suggesting that might be a factory take-off barrel, but they usually will have the maker's logo, also. Someone else may recognize that number series - I do not.

Would be more common, I think, to start with a rifled barrel blank - and a receiver with bolt - then measure and turn the tenon threads to fit that receiver, and chamber to headspace for that receiver and bolt. But sometimes can "get away" with using one that was set up for another rifle that is similar. It would surprise me, for example, if all Remington 700 receivers and bolts were precisely the same - but many are likely "close enough".

I have a "long chambered" McGowan barrel here, in 257 Roberts. It screws on snug to a Mauser 98 receiver, but barrel tenon is too long, so bolt won't close. That barrel nominally chambered 0.030" too deep - so idea was that one can peel off from rear end of barrel, peel off from barrel shoulder - to get to appropriate head space and bolt face clearance.

Your second to last picture is showing some blue/green streaks along the side of some rifling - as if that barrel had been fired - then some copper jacket material never cleaned out - and has since corroded. I am not sure. You do not see that on "new" or "clean" rifled barrels. There might or might not be markings on the very rear end of that barrel - around the chamber entrance - under that black crud - likely some solvent will dissolve and clean that stuff off? - is typical that the rifling twist rate is stamped on end of rifled barrel blank - that might still be there.

That "possibly" previously fired thing might be important - goes to the condition of the lands and freebore area in that barrel - I do not know how to look at that, except with a bore scope - must be other ways to do so, though. If that was a "home done" thing, might be concerned about whether that chamber is actually concentric with the bore, or not. That may or may not be of concern.
 
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Not a 700, no barrel face counterbore. Not a 788.
Looks as if it had a separate recoil lug.
Might help if you were to measure the thread diameter, pitch and shank length.
 
Aren't Savages 20tpi? Looks coarser than that.
Yes, there is enough meat to give options for installation.
 
Looks like a factory take-off to me but can't help much beyond that.

What would really help is length, diameter and thread pitch for the tenon. I'm sure someone would be able to say what it would fit with that information.

Oops, didn't see tiriaq beat me to it.
 
Thanks for all the input so far. Difficult with such limited info available. And good catch on the blue/green in the barrel. I don't know the history of this barrel at all.

My noob efforts to measure thread pitch, etc. produce an estimate of 14 TPI. Threaded length is .65". Length including shoulder is .87". Diameter is .87". I fully acknowledge I may never know.
 
Range Rover - there will be thread gauges that tell you accurately what is the thread spacing - like 14 tpi or 15 tpi or 13 tpi. Usually not much estimating. Is also Metric sizing - so diameter given in millimetres and thread spacing given as mm between threads - so like M8x1.25 or similar. Metric to Imperial - some might be close to each other - most not so much - but is different - kind of important for some to know precisely which it is, although some can be "forced" onto the other and some people okay with that.

Is also a thing about the thread form - so original Mausers used a Whitworth form - threads have a 55 degree slope - although most American gunsmiths cut a 60 degree angle, and apparently works well enough. The more precisely that you can ID that thread's dimensions - the more likely to find what receiver that was threaded for.

Always some "slop" - what you measured as .87" diameter, might actually be .875" - which is 7/8" Imperial, so you might be looking to find a receiver that was threaded nominally at 7/8" x 14 tpi. Is why many precision type guys won't cut a male thread, until they have the female threaded component in hand - they cut the threads to fit - not to a particular generic standard. And to make it even more "obtuse" - is various classes of "fit" - very tight to very sloppy - depends on the application and the duty called for.
 
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At 7/8x14, I'm going to say it is threaded for a barrel extension for a Sportco 44. Probably not, but that's the best I can come up with.
 
Thanks for all the input so far. Difficult with such limited info available. And good catch on the blue/green in the barrel. I don't know the history of this barrel at all.

My noob efforts to measure thread pitch, etc. produce an estimate of 14 TPI. Threaded length is .65". Length including shoulder is .87". Diameter is .87". I fully acknowledge I may never know.

Reloading dies are 7/8's x 14. Try threading a ring from a die onto it to confirm... or screw the barrel into a press... lol.

Bill's guess about threading into an extension is pretty good...
 
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