Help cleaning under the trigger of an over/under

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little b

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So need to clean out what I assume is left over powder under the trigger that is preventing the trigger from pulling back far enough to allow sear to swap between barrels between shots. I know it's all of 2 tho more that it need to pull back as a piece of tape on the front of the trigger sear gets it all to work fine.
At this point I have pulled back the trigger adjustment screw 1.5 turns allowing the trigger to pull far enough to return to working order but leaves it sticking out into the trigger guard.
The question is and I might be just over thinking this but how do I remove the hammer springs so that when I push out the pin holding the trigger in place I don't have a stupid time trying to put it back after because the hammer springs are in the way.
The screw at the back that holds the metal work that holds the back side of the hammer springs when removed just allows that bit of metal to slide back and forth. As far as I can tell it's one piece not two that separates with the screw out.
So am I just over thinking this and its take the screw out to allow the extra movement in the hammer springs and grab a good set of plyers and grab hold of the front of the hammer springs and pull them back and out of the way. They are under a fair amount of pressure even in the fired position as shown.
Or do I knock the pin holding a hammer part way out to release one of the hammers.
At this point just pulling the rod for the hammer spring out of the way leaves me feeling like I'm going to have a hell of a time putting it back in.
So if someone who know which order I should be doing this in can let me know that would be much appreciated.

​

Thanks

WhatsApp Image 2026-10-10 at 17.38.05 (2).jpeg
 
Spraying the stuffing out while it is still assembled is out of the question?
A Can of G-96 and a plastic bristled tooth brush not work for you?
Buddy pulled the springs on his AYA 25 recently and commented on how hard it was to remove them and how much harder it was to install them.
Discovered it was a broken firing pin that prompted his attemps and successful results.
Be prepared is all I am saying.
Rob
 
Yes I can take another run at spraying the stuffing out of it and I get how large an issue the springs may be if I go that route, thus I was asking the question here as I don't see a obvious way to do it. And it may be worth the hassle of just fighting with getting the trigger back in without removing the hammer springs as the easier solution of more spraying doesn't do it
 
I always held the action in a vise with padded jaws, one side up. Then using a small needle nose Vice Grips, grab the front of the spring assembly by it's "nose" and compress the spring and remove it from the hammer.
Turn the action over and repeat on the other side. Have a clean shop and watch where parts may fly.

Sometimes there is a small hole in the pin that is inside the spring that becomes visible when the hammer is cocked. You then place a small pin punch into that hole and release the hammer. the spring tension is held by the pin punch and you can do wheta you need to do...
 
guntech said:
I always held the action in a vise with padded jaws, one side up. Then using a small needle nose Vice Grips, grab the front of the spring assembly by it's "nose" and compress the spring and remove it from the hammer.
Turn the action over and repeat on the other side. Have a clean shop and watch where parts may fly.

Sometimes there is a small hole in the pin that is inside the spring that becomes visible when the hammer is cocked. You then place a small pin punch into that hole and release the hammer. the spring tension is held by the pin punch and you can do wheta you need to do...
Click to expand...
The other thing that works for "flying parts" is to take things apart in a big clear plastic bag. That is even doable with a vise. The parts will stay close by.
 
little b said:
So need to clean out what I assume is left over powder under the trigger that is preventing the trigger from pulling back far enough to allow sear to swap between barrels between shots. I know it's all of 2 tho more that it need to pull back as a piece of tape on the front of the trigger sear gets it all to work fine.
At this point I have pulled back the trigger adjustment screw 1.5 turns allowing the trigger to pull far enough to return to working order but leaves it sticking out into the trigger guard.
The question is and I might be just over thinking this but how do I remove the hammer springs so that when I push out the pin holding the trigger in place I don't have a stupid time trying to put it back after because the hammer springs are in the way.
The screw at the back that holds the metal work that holds the back side of the hammer springs when removed just allows that bit of metal to slide back and forth. As far as I can tell it's one piece not two that separates with the screw out.
So am I just over thinking this and its take the screw out to allow the extra movement in the hammer springs and grab a good set of plyers and grab hold of the front of the hammer springs and pull them back and out of the way. They are under a fair amount of pressure even in the fired position as shown.
Or do I knock the pin holding a hammer part way out to release one of the hammers.
At this point just pulling the rod for the hammer spring out of the way leaves me feeling like I'm going to have a hell of a time putting it back in.
So if someone who know which order I should be doing this in can let me know that would be much appreciated.

​

Thanks

View attachment 1223122
Click to expand...
Something that I found that works very good is a material called Chem Dip. I haven't been able to find it in Canada but I got my small pail of it at O'Reilly's in SSM Michigan. I used it to clean various parts and it works well and won't hurt anything. I used it to clean the pistons in the engine I built. About 10 - 15 minutes, they came out clean. I have used it on some gun parts as well.
No problem importing it, the MSDS sheet .............. Berryman's Chem dip. nothing that would offend Canada Customs.
Just dip the whole action in.
 
Dave_D said:
Will an air compressor blow out all the shmoo.
Latley I’ve been using my air compressor in the shop more and more to clean out actions. Works great.
Click to expand...
A substitute for complete disassembly is soaking in lacquer thinner, blowing it dry, repeat and then spray lots of G96, let it sit, then blow and wipe it dry.
 
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