Help Developping new 308 loads

[Gunneegoogoo]

Yeah...ok. I don't think you're grasping what I was trying to say. All is good.

Nope. Sorry. Not gettin' it.

Something to do with the "control enthusiast" guy??

 

[Ron AKA]

A break-in of a Savage barrel will pay a big dividend. If you could fire 1 shot and clean, for 3 times, that would be a good start. Then shoot 5 and clean.

Or, you could follow the procedure that Savage recommends.

The important part of this procedure is the use of a powder/carbon type solvent, as well as a copper solvent. The most effective copper solvents contain a strong solution of ammonia. Standard Hoppe's #9 for example has none. Barnes CR-10 has lots of ammonia.

The value of using an ammonia solvent is that it is a very sensitive indicator of copper fouling. The patch turns blue if there is copper in the barrel. This is important, as each barrel will be different, and will clean up at a different rate. You can use the presence or absence of the blue colour on the patch to determine if it is time to move to the next step, rather than follow the strict recipe for repetitions. No sense in shooting out your barrel breaking it in!

 

[Pinard]

If you fire 1 and clean three times you will be shocked at how much crap come out after just one shot. This is because of the rough bore.

Then fire 5 and clean. Again, very dirty.

Fire 5 or ten. Almost no crap. Barrel is now broken in.

Savage button rifled barrels need a break in.

didn't know that, good thing you mention it

Or, you could follow the procedure that Savage recommends.

The important part of this procedure is the use of a powder/carbon type solvent, as well as a copper solvent. The most effective copper solvents contain a strong solution of ammonia. Standard Hoppe's #9 for example has none. Barnes CR-10 has lots of ammonia.

The value of using an ammonia solvent is that it is a very sensitive indicator of copper fouling. The patch turns blue if there is copper in the barrel. This is important, as each barrel will be different, and will clean up at a different rate. You can use the presence or absence of the blue colour on the patch to determine if it is time to move to the next step, rather than follow the strict recipe for repetitions. No sense in shooting out your barrel breaking it in!

thats what I have... time to shop.

 

[Ganderite]

Hoppes #9 is a fair powder solvent, but terrible on copper. Hoppes sells a copper solvewnt. i think they call it Benchrest. I have a liter of it and use it for overnight soaks.

Sweets is what I use when in a hurry. Or Wipeout. See if you can get Wipeout. It is a foam. Squirt it in one end of the barrel and it will foam out the other. Leave the gun muzzle down for an hour then clean. Foam again if needed.

 

[sure as shootin]

If you want a round for hunting it's hard to go wrong with TTSX bullets, especially if you like the idea of not ingesting lead fragments/particles in your meat. That being said, if you do go with a monolithic bullet make sure you go lighter than you would with a cup and core/bonded bullet because copper bullets like Barnes retain almost a 100% of their original weight. Because you go lighter with them, they'll shoot a whole lot faster, as well, so they pack quite a punch and there's extremely little damage to the meat, too.

I like using 130 gr. TTSX in my 11:1 twist, 22" barrel .308,,,,,gives me good accuracy and about 3000 FPS:

 

[Ron AKA]

thats what I have... time to shop.

Use the Hoppe's #9 to remove carbon, and get another cleaner like Barnes CR-10 or Sweets 7.62 to get the copper. You need something that acts fast and shows you the copper or you will be spending days at the range. Here is an article that you might find interesting.

 

[skypilot]

Hoppes #9 is a fair powder solvent, but terrible on copper. Hoppes sells a copper solvewnt. i think they call it Benchrest. I have a liter of it and use it for overnight soaks.

Sweets is what I use when in a hurry. Or Wipeout. See if you can get Wipeout. It is a foam. Squirt it in one end of the barrel and it will foam out the other. Leave the gun muzzle down for an hour then clean. Foam again if needed.

True, the Hoppes #9 has less ammonia(amonium hydroxide) so cleans copper much less than the Benchrest.

 

[Pinard]

If you want a round for hunting it's hard to go wrong with TTSX bullets, especially if you like the idea of not ingesting lead fragments/particles in your meat. That being said, if you do go with a monolithic bullet make sure you go lighter than you would with a cup and core/bonded bullet because copper bullets like Barnes retain almost a 100% of their original weight. Because you go lighter with them, they'll shoot a whole lot faster, as well, so they pack quite a punch and there's extremely little damage to the meat, too.

I like using 130 gr. TTSX in my 11:1 twist, 22" barrel .308,,,,,gives me good accuracy and about 3000 FPS:

I don't hunt neither plan to with this rifle. I'll check out those Barnes if I'm not able to get good accuracy out of my noslers 175gr

Use the Hoppe's #9 to remove carbon, and get another cleaner like Barnes CR-10 or Sweets 7.62 to get the copper. You need something that acts fast and shows you the copper or you will be spending days at the range. Here is an article that you might find interesting.

Thanks, some good reading.