Just wondering if someone could answer a couple questions about a revolver. What would you pay for a older model Ruger redhawk in 44 mag blued finish in good condition? As well is handgun loading the same practice as rifle loading. I am very new to handguns but have been shooting and loading for rifles for years.
HELP< HELP PLEASE RUGER REDHAWK 44 mag
- Thread starter BOBXXX
- Start date
I don't know what I would pay as I haven't fully thought it through, but I would like to have one myself one day, and when that is the case, I will pay the least it will take but as much as I can afford up to whatever I determined was just too much to admit I had given lest I look silly. I expect that is the way for most of us.
But I can tell you that if you post a few more details those who do know something will be able to give a better answer. E.g. what barrel length? How old is it? Any idea how much it has been shot? Can you be more specific as to what criteria make you describe the condition as "good"? If you have seen it, did you notice any rust or any wearing of the finish, or detect any wear in the moving parts? Does your "good" just mean you didn't notice anything inparticular wrong with it?
And if it's a 5.5 inch barrel and you decide to pass on it, please let me have contact details. Good luck.
But I can tell you that if you post a few more details those who do know something will be able to give a better answer. E.g. what barrel length? How old is it? Any idea how much it has been shot? Can you be more specific as to what criteria make you describe the condition as "good"? If you have seen it, did you notice any rust or any wearing of the finish, or detect any wear in the moving parts? Does your "good" just mean you didn't notice anything inparticular wrong with it?
And if it's a 5.5 inch barrel and you decide to pass on it, please let me have contact details. Good luck.
Can't say what a blued version is worth. Mine is SS. But if you buy it, you will like the gun once you get used to the small grip frame.
As for reloading, handguns are much less complicated and time consuming as opposed to rifles. If you are referring to any differences between .44M handgun and .44M rifle rounds, just the loads. While a Redhawk will take a full maxed out load, you might want to test it with a rest to see if it groups at the same load as a rifle .44M. Mine groups best at a little under min loads of H110 even if it can handle the max load. (I do make up some max for buddies who can't shoot well but like the BOOM factor
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As for reloading, handguns are much less complicated and time consuming as opposed to rifles. If you are referring to any differences between .44M handgun and .44M rifle rounds, just the loads. While a Redhawk will take a full maxed out load, you might want to test it with a rest to see if it groups at the same load as a rifle .44M. Mine groups best at a little under min loads of H110 even if it can handle the max load. (I do make up some max for buddies who can't shoot well but like the BOOM factor
)44 mag, is super easy to load for. You've got a Ruger, so you're good with the max loads if you choose to go with them. Just make sure if you use H110 or Win296, you don't try to reduce below recommended start loads, and use a good roll crimp, into the crimping groove. Just make the rounds look like factory, and you're good to go. I love busting clays 50 yards away, with a max load of H110, if only my range were longer 
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
The Redhawk is a big burly revolver capable of handling the stoutest .44 loads out there. I would expect the price of a blued example in good condition to be in the $350-$400 range. FWIW, the Redhawk has the best feeling grip shape of any factory revolver. The rubber insert grips of the SRH don't cut it for me.
If you have not loaded straight wall cartridges before, there is an additional step or two. After decapping and resizing, particularly if you intend to shoot cast bullets, the case mouth must be belled slightly with the expander die, your die set will include 3 dies rather than 2. If you choose a carbide die set you will not have to lube your brass prior to resizing. Anyway, bell the case mouth a little as possible, but enough that the heel of the bullet sits on the inside surface of the case wall rather than on top of the case mouth. Crimping a revolver cartridge is terribly important as the recoil upon firing will pull the bullet of the subsequent round and tie up the gun as the bullet will extend beyond the length of the cylinder and pump up against the end of the barrel. While this can be done with the seating die, the Lee Factory Crimp Die is one of the best tools in the industry for the handgun shooter. Not only does it put an adequate crimp on the cartridge, it also has a carbide sizer that ensures the cartridge will chamber without any tight spots.
If you have not loaded straight wall cartridges before, there is an additional step or two. After decapping and resizing, particularly if you intend to shoot cast bullets, the case mouth must be belled slightly with the expander die, your die set will include 3 dies rather than 2. If you choose a carbide die set you will not have to lube your brass prior to resizing. Anyway, bell the case mouth a little as possible, but enough that the heel of the bullet sits on the inside surface of the case wall rather than on top of the case mouth. Crimping a revolver cartridge is terribly important as the recoil upon firing will pull the bullet of the subsequent round and tie up the gun as the bullet will extend beyond the length of the cylinder and pump up against the end of the barrel. While this can be done with the seating die, the Lee Factory Crimp Die is one of the best tools in the industry for the handgun shooter. Not only does it put an adequate crimp on the cartridge, it also has a carbide sizer that ensures the cartridge will chamber without any tight spots.
i've got 2 of them , the 7.5 inch with all the bells and whistles( read scope , rail and rings) and the 5.5- again. i don't care for the grip of the srh either- the 5.5 cost me 760 brand new from wsl just a year ago before the prices went crazy- i use the lee 4 die setup with the factory crimp die- got the gun brand new as i don't know enough about revolvers( i'm a 1911 man) to guage a used one- i find myself using the 5,5 inch most - the balance is better, and i've got hogue grips on both, so that alleviates the "small grip" problem- i never found it
Stainless Redhawk, used in nice condition you can get in my area for about $500. Exc. I would say $600. As for blue one, depends but I would expect about $50 (max $100) less than stainless one. Now, if really want blue one, I would say go for it, otherwise, I would suggest go for stainless. In case you have any scratch just a touch with Scotch-Brite will fix it. Try to fix scratch on blue gun…
As for reloading, it’s easier than for rifle, although one more die, but no case lubrication with carbide sizing die.
WARNIN
if you are assembling target/practicing load using one of those fast powders, always use two loading blocks, especially when charging powder. Take empty case from first block, charge powder and place case with powder in another block. After you finish with one block, take it under strong light and check couple times ALL cases, to make sure that powder level is the same in all of them.
BTW, when using fast powder first time, take one case and load it twice with powder, just to see what would be powder level if you make mistake and double charge. Of course, make damn sure that all powder from that case goes back to powder measure. Otherwise, KABOOM is inevitable.
For that particular reason I use for target loads IMR SR4756. If double charged, 41 and 44 cases are filled right to the top, no mistake that something isn’t right.
Another advice; get good aftermarket grips. Original wooden one are not so “hand friendly” INMHO. Even 50-100 rounds (medium loads) might quite “upset” skin in web area next to thumb. Redhawk is very sturdy revolver, but my and your hands are not; been there, done that...
As for reloading, it’s easier than for rifle, although one more die, but no case lubrication with carbide sizing die.
WARNIN
if you are assembling target/practicing load using one of those fast powders, always use two loading blocks, especially when charging powder. Take empty case from first block, charge powder and place case with powder in another block. After you finish with one block, take it under strong light and check couple times ALL cases, to make sure that powder level is the same in all of them. BTW, when using fast powder first time, take one case and load it twice with powder, just to see what would be powder level if you make mistake and double charge. Of course, make damn sure that all powder from that case goes back to powder measure. Otherwise, KABOOM is inevitable.
For that particular reason I use for target loads IMR SR4756. If double charged, 41 and 44 cases are filled right to the top, no mistake that something isn’t right.
Another advice; get good aftermarket grips. Original wooden one are not so “hand friendly” INMHO. Even 50-100 rounds (medium loads) might quite “upset” skin in web area next to thumb. Redhawk is very sturdy revolver, but my and your hands are not; been there, done that...
