Help ID a Ross Rifle 1905
- Thread starter Kagey
- Start date
It appears to be quite close to my Ross Mk II*. I have the micrometer adjustment on the front of my rear sight like yours but the rest of the sight is slightly different.
No range numbers on the left side.
Different style of rear sight leaf.
Fewer adjustment notches on the left side.
My rifle is dated 1906 so suspect yours may be newer but still a Mk II.
No range numbers on the left side.
Different style of rear sight leaf.
Fewer adjustment notches on the left side.
My rifle is dated 1906 so suspect yours may be newer but still a Mk II.
I was going to say Mk II* too till I had a good look at that rear sight...but, looking at my copy of the Ross Rifle Story...I believe it's a Mk II with Mk III rearsight.
You said not many markings? Meaning all of the info has been sanded off the right side of the buttstock?
Damned sad...if so all or most of the collector value is gone.
You could still extend the forend and put a nose cap on it, but if the info is gone it's like someone burned down the library...
It's still a very worthwhile rifle though, way more interesting than the majority of them.
Thanks for the good clear pics.
Full length uncut barrel, still has handguards..could be worse.
Fortunately the Mk II with Mk III sight uses the standard, later Mk II nosecap, which is the most findable of them all. You need a forend extension, nosecap, front sight hood and screws.
Stoggie may be able to help you with the forend piece, not sure but you could ask.
Not a very common rifle at all.
Full length uncut barrel, still has handguards..could be worse.
Fortunately the Mk II with Mk III sight uses the standard, later Mk II nosecap, which is the most findable of them all. You need a forend extension, nosecap, front sight hood and screws.
Stoggie may be able to help you with the forend piece, not sure but you could ask.
Not a very common rifle at all.
Condition of the bore? Makes a big difference. Tons of them are shot right out with dark bores. If so, almost worthless.
$200-$300 at best due to the removed history and cut forend.
1905
Try using some foaming type bore cleaner like Wipe Out or Gunslick Foaming Bore Cleaner. The rifling does not look too bad, and a good cleaning should make a good improvement. If you make one application, run some patches through the bore, then loosen any further crud with a bore brush, then patches, then another shot of bore cleaner followed by patches, it is surprising just what gunk does come out, and what condition of the bore is really in. Some really bad ones come out not too bad, and definitely shootable.
If you can find someone who collects stamps, or a store that sells items for the stamp collectors, there is a light that is used to detect watermarks. Because wood compresses when stamped, it is sometimes possible to bring out the lettering by shining one of these lights on the stock.
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Try using some foaming type bore cleaner like Wipe Out or Gunslick Foaming Bore Cleaner. The rifling does not look too bad, and a good cleaning should make a good improvement. If you make one application, run some patches through the bore, then loosen any further crud with a bore brush, then patches, then another shot of bore cleaner followed by patches, it is surprising just what gunk does come out, and what condition of the bore is really in. Some really bad ones come out not too bad, and definitely shootable.
If you can find someone who collects stamps, or a store that sells items for the stamp collectors, there is a light that is used to detect watermarks. Because wood compresses when stamped, it is sometimes possible to bring out the lettering by shining one of these lights on the stock.
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Too early to say for sure but definitely doesn't look bad.
I had trouble getting a good pic of the bore, but the lands seem to be there at least (the bore is real dirty, I haven't cleaned it yet)
