Help identifying an old shotgun?

Well it hasn't blown up yet... an option is to keep on using it with light factory loads until it does... make sure you wear eye protection...

I know this is a tongue-in-cheek comment you made but would like to warn people against the concept that target loads are in some way safer in vintage guns than hunting loads. Typically they are not. Reduced payloads (ounces of shot) and reduced velocity will limit recoil and that helps not break your old walnut stock. Pressure is what blows compromised barrels and many commercial target loads have high peak chamber pressures.
 
I know this is a tongue-in-cheek comment you made but would like to warn people against the concept that target loads are in some way safer in vintage guns than hunting loads. Typically they are not. Reduced payloads (ounces of shot) and reduced velocity will limit recoil and that helps not break your old walnut stock. Pressure is what blows compromised barrels and many commercial target loads have high peak chamber pressures.

And also be careful on how and what you say on a public forum. The way it was worded can easily be taken as saying it would be okay to use the gun with light loads. The way things are nowadays, it would be easy to end up in a lawsuit because someone on an open public forum who works with guns told him to go ahead and shoot it. Can't be too careful.
 
You paid about what a wall hanger, decorator gun is worth.
Educate yourself on what makes for quality in a shotgun before you buy another.
 
In theory, if this thing isn't a pipe bomb waiting to happen, the walls aren't honed too thin and I clean it up etc could mild black powder loads be shot out of it given the play in the action etc? Or is that still pushing the envelope? I am rather fond of all my digits being attached.

If not its formally demoted to refinish project/wall hanger.
 
You seem determined to use this , against all the (free) advice you have received on here. Do you drive on bald tires or with faulty brakes? Would you jump into the water with a group of feeding sharks? Would you volunteer for a probably fatal job? Maybe you just ignore good advice regarding possible danger because you thrive on risk. You could possibly shoot this gun for years without incident, or the next shot could be disastrous. You have no way of knowing if the gun will hold together for 10, 25, 250 shots or if the next shot will destroy the gun and possibly leave you crippled or worse. You asked for advice, admitting that your knowledge regarding old shotguns was minimal and then disagree with a consensus of that knowledgeable advice because you "wanna shoot the gun". Yes you are disappointed because you bought a gun to shoot ( hopefully well below market value as well) and now it looks like you made a mistake and you don't want to give up on your dream. If it's that important to you, spend a little more money to get the gun evaluated by a professional gunsmith with solid experience with old double shotguns. Don't take it to Joe the plumber that fixes guns as a sideline or hobby. This gunsmith will give you an honest and accurate assessment of your jewel; his business , both financially and legally depends on his decision. Your gun is 100 years old, made as cheaply as possible and was never proofed or intended for use with modern ammo. Now, because of these factors and considerable abuse and neglect since new it's time to permanently retire it. The proper way to check a gun for looseness is with the forend OFF, hold the gun vertically muzzles up, one hand supporting the butt and the other gripping the action near the trigger guard and shake it. A gun that appears only slightly off face will often be loose as a goose by this method.
Show us some pictures of your refinished / repurposed gun when when you're satisfied with your project.
 
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So are you telling him to go ahead and shoot it until it blows and maybe taking a finger, hand or arm with it ? How do you know when last it was shot and why it was auctioned?

Read again what I wrote... Well it hasn't blown up yet... an option is to keep on using it with light factory loads until it does... make sure you wear eye protection...

I am not telling anyone to do anything except to wear eye protection ... apparently there is a missed point in what I wrote...
 
I appreciate the advise. I took it apart, looked at it, put it back together and the insides look no prettier than the outside. I will not be shooting it and after looking around my basement came to the conclusion I have enough guns on the walls to annoy my signifcant other, startle a liberal and make nervous and any ill-informed law enforcement agent who may happen to stumble down there. (***Disclaimer! They are all displayed and stored safely***). Plus I'm sure I've made it obvious I would like to at least be able to shoot the guns I own at least once and not need facial reconstructive surgey.

I weighted my options and made an brutally honest online ad for it and I actually found a gentleman who is very excited to make a wall hanger display piece out of it and will be nearly breaking even on this learning experience.

Thanks again for the advise everyone.
 
For comparison purposes, I sold a Belgian Pieper years ago for $500: Condition was incomparably better than that... no cracks, gouges, pits and the barrels were on face (barrel block was... the damascus barrels were attached to a forged block which formed chamber area) I can't make out the proof marks (or tell if they are damascus) on the barrel bottom because of the pitting but if they are legible you can find them online. I wouldn't shoot that until a gunsmith competent with SxS examined and at least put the barrels back on face: judging by the picture, putting yours on face won't be a few hammer taps and honing. I wouldn't be surprised if you find if it was proofed for black powder only. It's obviously a W.W. Greener clone... if the rib isn't badly rusted, you might find one of the many "Greener" copy names stamped on it.
 
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