Help me build my SA Rem ti...

C

cleo

Member
Rating - 100%
44   0   0
OK guys and gals - time's come to do another ti build - this time on a SA reg bolt face 1st gen ti, and I need your advice. This one will a light caliber primarily for Island deer hunting. I'm hoping some of you have done this already and can pass on some of your learnings. A few questions:

1 - Barrel. I want to duplicate the factory contour that came with the 1st gen ti's, which I think is the same as the rem mountain contour (ie noodle barrel). I don't mind going ever so slightly heavier, but this really is going to be an ultralight build, and I don't want the balance buggered up. I've had a pac-nor barrel in a #1, and it's a good accurate barrel, but I hate the straight shank look (like a kimber) and much prefer the Remington which starts to taper right from the action. SO - can any barrel maker replicate a rem mtn contour? Who makes the most accurate light contour barrels? Also could go slightly heavier and get fluted, but what contour fluted would end up the same weight as a non-fluted mtn contour barrel? I plan to go 22".

2 - stock. I really would like to dump some weight, and go with a really light stock. Wildcat composites are the easy choice because of delivery time, but I hear they drop at the comb more than the 1st gen ti stocks did, and I tend to need a higher comb and extra-low rings to get a proper cheek weld than most people seem to. Can wildcat replicate the shape of a rem ti stock? Any other suggestions for an ultralight stock that mimics that shape? I'm not adverse to blind magazines if that matters... Lastly it's important to me that the stock contour match that of the barrel. Do wildcat stocks (or others) make stocks specifically for a Remington mtn contour barrel?

3 - Weight. Any other reasonable ways to drop a few ounces? What does a lightweight firing pin get you in performance or weight savings? I'm not going to get into any other metalwork to shave part ounces...

4 - caliber. Like I said above, mostly for deer hunting on the island. I've already got a 270WIN and 300WSM on ti actions, so I was thinking the 243 should be the 1st choice as the 260 would be too close to my 270 performance-wise. I should say that I'm not a reloader (yet) so that pushes me away from the 260 as well. Any other suggestions that would work on this action in a lighter caliber that I should consider? Maybe something in 25 cal like the Roberts or ??

5 - Last up is the scope. I love leupolds and their flip up covers (a necessity here on the wet coast). Trying to decide if it's worth going to the VX-2 3-9 ultralight, or stay with the VX3 2.5-8, which is a couple ounces heavier, but a much better scope in some people's opinion... Anyone had experience with both?

Looking forward to all your suggestions...
Cheers,
C.
 
Last edited:
243AI would be cool, more performance, has a cool factor and my 243AI's shoot very well with factory ammo as well. I also have a soft spot for the 6-284 and 25-284. I have a Alaskan Ti in 300 WSM and love it. Is your bolt fluted and handle hollowed out?

I missed the part about not being a reloader, that cancels out the 284 based cartridges, the 243ai may still work if you plan on reloading in the future.
 
I'll start off by advising you to RUN and not walk from the VX-II ultralight. It's eye-relief and light gathering are positively abysmal compared to your little VX-3 and would be even worse hunting in the gloomy West coast timber.
If you don't reload and don't really plan to I would say .308 Win for caliber. Boring,yes, but always readily available,well up to the task at hand and the bonus is you will save ounces with the larger bore and ounces are what separate a lightweight rifle from an ultralight.
 
Last edited:
MaxKW said:
243AI would be cool, more performance, has a cool factor and my 243AI's shoot very well with factory ammo as well. I also have a soft spot for the 6-284 and 25-284. I have a Alaskan Ti in 300 WSM and love it. Is your bolt fluted and handle hollowed out?
Click to expand...


He doesn't handload,that pretty much rules out anything based on a .284win case, which is my all time fave in an ultralight as well.
With a 140grTTSX and using RE-17 I see close to 3150 out of my NULA with a 22" barrel.
 
Yeah - I don't reload, and I really don't want to duplicate my 270, which I think a 260 comes close, a 7-08 does about the same, and a 308 just does nothing for me.

Thanks for the advice on the VX-2. It's been a long time since I looked thru one of those ULs, and I'm really happy with my VX-3 2.5-8 that I've got on my 300.
 
Pacnor will match the mountain rifle contour perfectly - infact there was one for sale here on CGN last week. So that's not a problem.
For stock I would use a wildcat model 7 pattern - that what I put on mine. Talley extra low lightweights, and a vx2 3-9x40, the fixed 6x with LR reticle, or the vx3 2.5-8 would all be good choices in my book.
 
double gun said:
Pacnor will match the mountain rifle contour perfectly - infact there was one for sale here on CGN last week. So that's not a problem.
For stock I would use a wildcat model 7 pattern - that what I put on mine. Talley extra low lightweights, and a vx3 2.5-8 would all be a GREAT choice in my book.

YUP what dg says and have it chambered in 7MM-08 Remmy ! :d RJ
Click to expand...
 
remington jim said:
double gun said:
Pacnor will match the mountain rifle contour perfectly - infact there was one for sale here on CGN last week. So that's not a problem.
For stock I would use a wildcat model 7 pattern - that what I put on mine. Talley extra low lightweights, and a vx3 2.5-8 would all be a GREAT choice in my book.

YUP what dg says and have it chambered in 7MM-08 Remmy ! :d RJ
Click to expand...

Sorry but I assume you guys mean a model 7 pattern for a 700? What about paint? Corlanes the best place to get the whole thing done if I go with wildcat?
Click to expand...
 
Years ago when first Gen Ti's were plentiful (think I owned 5 of them total)...I had one I rebarreled with a 23" #1 Pacnor in 7-08AI. Put it into a Wildcat stock. With Talley LW's and a 2.5-8X Leupy it was an ounce or so over 6 lbs. Had BDL bottom metal also.

BDL bottom metal won't add any weight. When you figure the weight of that steel escutcheon under the front screw, the deeper ADL mag box, the extra screw and the fibreglass removed to inlet for BDL it's a wash. We've weighed this all out.

A guy on Van Island owns it now.

Not hard to make a Ti really light.
 
Corlanes has very good turnaround times and does good work, but if I was you I'd look up Dennis Sorenson on the island and get him to put your barrel on, I believe he's still taking work and he's done a half dozen for me all very nicely done. Order a Pacnor as double gun points out in the mountain contour from North Shore Barrels, and you're off to the races. Dull or not, .308's likely the most practical, and will be the lightest rifle as the .30 cal hole lightens up a light contour quite a bit compared to a .243 or .264. It's also easy to feed, likely the best option listed for on game effect, shoots as flat as any of the others inside hunting ranges, and well other than being your dad's cartridge pretty much has it all going for it.
 
I really can't offer any help regarding advice or suggestions, but here is what I did.
My 1st gen. 700 Ti started life as a 260, unfortunately the factory barrel was NFG out of the box so I sent the rifle to Bill Leeper and he re-barreled it to 270 / 08.
Now before the 7-08 crowd jumps all over me my reasoning for this was because I have several thousand .277 bullets on hand and no 270 Winchester rifles to use them in.
It currently weighs about 6 lb. 4 oz. with Talley low mounts and a Leupold ultralight glass which I quite like.
My pet load for it consists of a 160 gr. CIL Kling-kore bullet over H4831 SC.
 
cleo said:
remington jim said:
Sorry but I assume you guys mean a model 7 pattern for a 700? What about paint? Corlanes the best place to get the whole thing done if I go with wildcat?
Click to expand...

Yes Model 7 pattern but M700 stock - smaller - lighter - if you were to handload i would build it in 7MM-08 Rem Improved - a GREAT cartridge ! Corlanes is prob a great place to get it ER done at ! RJ
Click to expand...
 
Rembo said:
Years ago when first Gen Ti's were plentiful (think I owned 5 of them total)...I had one I rebarreled with a 23" #1 Pacnor in 7-08AI. Put it into a Wildcat stock. With Talley LW's and a 2.5-8X Leupy it was an ounce or so over 6 lbs. Had BDL bottom metal also.

BDL bottom metal won't add any weight. When you figure the weight of that steel escutcheon under the front screw, the deeper ADL mag box, the extra screw and the fibreglass removed to inlet for BDL it's a wash. We've weighed this all out.

A guy on Van Island owns it now.

Not hard to make a Ti really light.
Click to expand...

OK - talking bottom metal makes me think of B+C stocks for some reason. Do they make a lightweight stock for a mountain contour barrel? I know wildcat advertises 17oz for their lightweight versions, but doesn't include a recoil pad which would run what 4-5 oz?? Of course there's Mcmillan, but I hear nothing but really long waits for them. What's a SA edge weigh - maybe 23 oz finished?
 
Ardent said:
Corlanes has very good turnaround times and does good work, but if I was you I'd look up Dennis Sorenson on the island and get him to put your barrel on, I believe he's still taking work and he's done a half dozen for me all very nicely done. Order a Pacnor as double gun points out in the mountain contour from North Shore Barrels, and you're off to the races. Dull or not, .308's likely the most practical, and will be the lightest rifle as the .30 cal hole lightens up a light contour quite a bit compared to a .243 or .264. It's also easy to feed, likely the best option listed for on game effect, shoots as flat as any of the others inside hunting ranges, and well other than being your dad's cartridge pretty much has it all going for it.
Click to expand...

haha - I hear you on the 308 - you're bang on... just not sure if I want to go that way...

Who is North Shore Barrels? I looked up their website but no luck - the link didn't produce anything.. I assume they're an exporter? North shore Kamloops or N.van or??

And yes, If I can source all the parts correctly, Dennis certainly would be my first choice - he's done a couple of beauties for me already..

Cheers!
 
Contact Juan Valdez here on CGN, he is North Shore Barrels. He is not doing any work any more, how ever he has quite a bit of stock/inventory left and is selling it off at reasonable prices, maybe he has something that will work for you. If that fails, contact Gary at Big Horn Sales, I got most of my kit for my current build from him and he is quite reasonable and he even put up with all my pesky questions!

243, 260, 7mm-08, or 308 it is all a wash for your requirements. I would survey your local gun shops and see what is readily available and base your decision on that. How ever the 308 adds a little insurance if something really big with claws comes along.
 
For some reason I think this should be a 257 Roberts! Based on what ya got and what your using it for. It's not real common but there's enough factory ammo around to keep ya going for sure.
I passed up a SA Ti a couple years ago and was gonna do that, so let me live though you, lol. She all worked out though and found a wsm/saum boltface TI a bit later and new plan with another cartridge, just waiting for all the parts to get stuck together
 
Do a .243 and don't look back. Talk to Gary at Bighorn because benchmarks are good barrels and he can get you a Rem MR contour.
I finished my Wildcat Model 7 stock with a 1/2 Pachmyer recoil pad painted and bedded at 21oz which is silly light. Stu at wildcat has his patterns and that's it. No custom jobs.

Use Mitch Kendal in Kamloops for your stock work; I wouldn't let Corlanes bed and paint a boat anchor for me after my experiences with them. Mitch understands ultralight.

Do Talleys and the 2.5-8 or 6x leupolds. The UL series are as bright and useful as a retard in a cave.

I did a very similar build with the 6x in .284 and it weighed 6lbs flat.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom