Help me interpret this data! (Picture Heavy)

Ganderite, really appreciate you're insight and experience.

Before I even shot this rifle, I bedded it with Devcon. Tom at Go Big Tactical has a KRG chassis on order for me.

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Both front and back action screws are at 65 inch pounds. The bedding was an interesting experience. I think Id pay someone to do it next time.
 
1st target 39.4, 39.5, 39.6, 39.7 The rest I don't see anything good.
2nd target, 39.9, 40.0, 40.1, 40.2, and 40.3.
For my OCW tests, I have been using dollar store post it notes. They are about 1.5" square and are stuck down on a white paper. I measure and make a + on the center of each one with a sharpie. They are nice to work with and are cheap. They will need to be taped down with scotch tape on the top and bottom so they don't eventually fall off.
 
You and I are in agreement, Lead Hammer. I'm going to concentrate on those and alter seating depths to try and dial it in.
 
39.6 has not vertical, that's what your after...so now tweak the seating depth a hair and then learn to read the wind better, if you take it out farther you want to see all the vertical disappear, horizontal dispersion is nothing more then misreading the wind
 
Working on 39.6 right now. Like a dummy, I prepped my brass only to realize after I did 50 that I needed to trim. Doh!

Would you recommend doing 5 shots of each seating depth?
 
bluedixon said:
Working on 39.6 right now. Like a dummy, I prepped my brass only to realize after I did 50 that I needed to trim. Doh!

Would you recommend doing 5 shots of each seating depth?
Click to expand...

yes, 3 shot groups don't tell me anything, and as ganderite says, when you know your really close, prove it with 10
 
39.6 although in itself is great, 39.8 does not impact anywhere near 39.6. 39.7 needs to be checked to see if it’s still in the node or if it’s climbing out. If it’s out, then 39.6 is no good. If 39.7 is good then likely 39.5,6,7 will be his node and 39.6 will be his load. At least that’s what I’m seeing.
 
Heads up, on Amazon, Layger is blowing out many die sets and various reloading tools for a $1.00, I just bought a Lee .45 acp four die set and a RCBS competition .308 die set for $1.00 for each, looks like they are cleaning house on Hornady, Lyman, Lee, and RCBS.
 
Nice looking bedding job. Especially for a first effort. I started by bedding all my Cooey 22s for practice.

This website has lots of good targets you can print out. For 200-300 yards, this one works well.

TARGET SQUARES.jpg
 

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Appreciate that, Ganderite. There is a bit of learning curve, to put it mildly.

I've been avoiding setting up my printer since my recent move. I suppose I'll have to now, these targets I made aren't cutting it.
 
Sorry for the delay. Just finished up a 2 week shift.

Ive made a few changes, thanks to Tom @ GoBigTactical

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It became apparent after the last few rounds of tests I had done that my brass was too long by nearly 0.003" over the trim length. Fired up the LE Wilson trimmer, which is excellent for consistency. Uniformed the flash holes as well.

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I did a couple rounds of seating depth testing. Everything I shot likes 0.010-0.015" off the lands. It appears that this rifle prefers the 140 grain SMK over anything else Ive tried, however I did grab a couple boxes of 139 grain Scenars to try out.

Done up a couple batches just now. Ive changed primers too. I was running Federal 210, but now I'm giving CCI BR2's a try. Ive heard that magnum primers might be the way to go with this slow powder. I don't know enough about it to decide either way. Any thoughts?

50 rounds of the 140 SMK, and 50 rounds of 139 Scenars. Both sets are 0.010" off the lands. My hope is to see if I still reach pressure signs with the brass trimmed back to 1.910" like they should have been before I started all this. Due to the shape of Lapua ogive, they seat quite long before touching the lands. Almost 0.025" longer than anything else Ive tested. Interesting.

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Interestingly enough, Ive never weight sorted my bullets. Out of curiosity, I grabbed 10 of the Lapua Scenars and surprisingly they varied almost 0.3 grains. Obviously this is less than ideal. The Sierra's I'm running typically are within 0.1 grain.

Another question I have is as follows. Regarding neck uniformity, after sorting my brass into 0.001" increments of neck thickness, it appears that I should just suck it up and start neck turning. I feel like its the only way to guarantee consistent neck tension, and I prefer to work in batches of 50, so finding brass 50 of the same size is time consuming and wildly unnecessary if I was turning the necks. How do you guys feel about neck turning? Is reaming required at some point if neck turning?

Currently, utilizing my redding bushing dies, I'm sitting at roughly 0.002-0.003 neck tension with the Federal brass I'm currently using after neck sorting.

I'll head out to the range tomorrow to give these a run and update with some photos once I get home.

Really appreciate all the help guys. Love having all this expertise at my fingertips.
 
Almost forgot. Bought a couple boxes of Bergers off a gentleman in the exchange. Package was delivered, however it was just an empty opened cardboard box inside a plastic bag explaining that it was damaged.

Not entirely sure if it was a combination of poor packing, and rough handling, but either way I'm out 120 bucks. Canada Post politely told me I'm S.O.L. Ive had such good luck over the years, I suppose I was due.

The bonus however, was that the bag provided could be used to hyperventilate into.

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sucks about the bullets, seller should have packaged them way better.......but I'll leave that one alone for now

skim turning is a good idea, if your cut about 50% of the neck on average your going to get more consistent neck tension, aside form sorting your bullets for weight you may also join the likes of us sorting base to ogive, when jump or jamb distance is so critical with bullets like these you should sort them so the ones your shooting are all brothers and not distance cousins, doesn't matter for 250 yards but when you stretch out all of these little things come into play.
3 thou over trim length is nothing, 3 thou over max case length is an issue, but as long as your brass is under max length and all a consistent length to one another your doing okay, consistency from the first round to the last round is what your after, and anywhere withing the saami specs is fine, just remember your base numbers for when you prep brass a second or third time around.
CCI primers are good, not necessarily better, if the creedmore is anything like the benchrest case then yes magnum primers with the heavy bullets shine, and they hold the higher pressures better without flowing back into the bolt face
 
Appreciate that, YoDave. In your base to ogive setup, is that just a granite comparator stand? Super trick, and fast.

I'm slowly wrapping my head around advanced techniques, but I have to remember I'm barely 400 rounds into my reloading experience.
 
that is the granite stand, I added a second dial indicator to measure overall length at the same time, for those more advanced sorting duties I endure, most will say the OAL doesn't matter however I have found berger bullets to vary so much from lot to lot that I can make some lot numbers shoot lights out and others only so so, the VLD hunter bullets can vary as much as 58 thou between lot numbers, obviously the shorter 105 bullets work well for me, 3.1 inch 15 shot group at 600 yards in a 6br.

I measure my powder on a gempro 250 scale and get it to within 0.02 grains of my desired powder weight, tweezers are a must
 
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