Help me make my Tikka Sporter better for PRS

K0na_stinky said:
Hey everyone I'm looking for some advice from people that have been following or shooting in PRS type matches. I have a Tikka T3 Sporter in 260rem that I would like to make a little better suited for PRS type matches.

The first big problem is the stock being pretty well right hand only. I've already made a new cheek rest that is symmetrical on both sides. (the factory one favors a right hand shooter.)

Next I have to make room for my trigger finger on the left side. I think I will open up a finger grove on the left side similar to how they did it on the right side.

I also want to open up the magwell similar to how the TRG is. Currently I can't easily get to the mag release.

sakko_JRSM916.jpg


My last question for now is where to add sling QD's? I bought a Rifles Only FTW sling and got the QD attachments.

What does everyone think of my plan? Anything else I'm missing? Its not to late to stop me from ripping into my sporter stock. :)

Thanks!

Heres some pics of how it sits now.

DSC00478_zps5arubgms.jpg


DSC00482_zpsoljkqt1u.jpg
Click to expand...

The cheek piece looks really good Kona! It's funny; I did exactly the same thing today. I shoot left and that cheek piece would be a cheek buster, if not changed. I had a nice highly figured 5/4 birds eye maple board that I cut a small piece from. Looks like a Tikka/Browning hybrid now. LOL

Which bottom metal are you using? I'd like to go that way too.

My Tikka has the threaded muzzle so today I custom ordered a Witt Machine and Tool Muzzle Rise Eliminator with an M18x1 thread. Jeff (who does their custom work) says it will be a bit thin, but it will work OK. I have one on my Ruger Precision and it is so effective that it makes a .308 feel just like a .223. Makes it so you can see a long range hit and follow up shots are that much quicker too.
Here is the maple cheek piece...
20160414_202511_zpsxhgcgtbh.jpg
 
freedomintheskies said:
The cheek piece looks really good Kona! It's funny; I did exactly the same thing today. I shoot left and that cheek piece would be a cheek buster, if not changed. I had a nice highly figured 5/4 birds eye maple board that I cut a small piece from. Looks like a Tikka/Browning hybrid now. LOL

Which bottom metal are you using? I'd like to go that way too.

My Tikka has the threaded muzzle so today I custom ordered a Witt Machine and Tool Muzzle Rise Eliminator with an M18x1 thread. Jeff (who does their custom work) says it will be a bit thin, but it will work OK. I have one on my Ruger Precision and it is so effective that it makes a .308 feel just like a .223. Makes it so you can see a long range hit and follow up shots are that much quicker too.
Here is the maple cheek piece...
20160414_202511_zpsxhgcgtbh.jpg
Click to expand...

Looks good! I made mine from some scrap maple that I had around as well. The grain in mine isn't quite as nice as yours though. lol

My bottom metal is made by Lumley Arms, coretac sells them or you can get it straight from the states. It was a bit pricey but It didn't require the outline of the inlay to be changed. I only had to open up the magwell inside the stock to fit the double stack mag.

I wish mine came with a threaded muzzle. I got mine on that deal a few years back then the distributor was dumping them. There wasn't any options. Just 260rem with a 23"ish barrel. Only paid $1200 tho :)
 
Thanks for all the input guys. I got a ton of info in a very short period of time.

I'll have to think about what I want to do. My stock isn't going to be worth much as it is because I already pillar bedded it.

Going with a KRG chassis would be really nice but like everyone has said, I need to get out and see what works for me. The KRG chassis costs more then I paid for the rifle itself. I might add the QD things and cut the forend flat to make a bit of a barricade stop. It won't cost me anything to mess around with it. I wanted to paint it olive drab anyways. :)
 
I'm fairly impressed with these rifles. I took mine out this morning to sight it in. Managed a .75" group at 100 yds using some 150 gr. FMJBT stuff I use for my AR10 and M1A. I'm thinking this gun should be good for .5MOA with some tuned hand loads. I don't know if a chassis would make it much better. Or is it simply ergonomics? Thoughts?
 
KS, properly done, pillar bedding would ENHANCE the value of the stock or at least keep it at current market levels.

With the rarity of these stocks, the stock itself is valuable regardless of its function.

But, that is up to you.

If deciding to chop it up, take a look at the internal inletting. Make sure that there is material left once you whack a bunch off the outside.

I am guessing some areas are going to get pretty thin.

Jerry
 
Whatever areas make positions more stable for you? The knack to customization is understanding what works for you specifically. Asking exactly how is like all the 'what 308 load for 1000 yards' threads- the 'right load' has less to do with a number and more to do with just getting out there and doing something.
 
Mystic Precision said:
KS, properly done, pillar bedding would ENHANCE the value of the stock or at least keep it at current market levels.

With the rarity of these stocks, the stock itself is valuable regardless of its function.

But, that is up to you.

If deciding to chop it up, take a look at the internal inletting. Make sure that there is material left once you whack a bunch off the outside.

I am guessing some areas are going to get pretty thin.

Jerry
Click to expand...

I don't think thinning out the left side trigger finger area will weaken the stock. Its also pretty safe to say opening up the the stock to get to the mag release would be ok as well.

I'm not an expert though. So there is only one way to find out. :)
 
max-x said:
Whatever areas make positions more stable for you? The knack to customization is understanding what works for you specifically. Asking exactly how is like all the 'what 308 load for 1000 yards' threads- the 'right load' has less to do with a number and more to do with just getting out there and doing something.
Click to expand...

Fair enough. It will be a work in progress for awhile I guess.

The only thing left to do now is dive into the project. lol
 
Here is a better pic of the area where I want to remove some material for my trigger finger and to get to the mag release.

DSC00486_zpsqf4lrefq.jpg



Is this to far back for the flush cup under the forend?

DSC00487_zps7583gdyh.jpg



How does this flush cup position look for the butt? Should I put one on both sides?

DSC00488_zpsdqqzashn.jpg


Thanks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom