Help me plan my reloading bench
- Thread starter jjr
- Start date
- Location
- West Quebec
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Yep, they go in from below. Setting them is done with just the regular bolt and a ratchet to pull them into place. Use a scrap to prevent the washer on the head of the bolt pulling down a divot in your nice clean top.
I likely went a bit OCD on the whole thing and added a little PL Premium to the flanges when I set them.
The mounting plates also use the T nuts set into a recess done with a Forstner bit. I could have set the heads of the bolts in from below in a counterbore but that would have left less wood. The T nuts only require about a 1/16 inch depression so there's more wood left. This means that some hacksawing and filing of the bolts is needed to cut them to the proper length. Or I could have used more washers. But after seeing the pictures of the work area you can see why I cut the bolts instead of going ghetto with washers....
I likely went a bit OCD on the whole thing and added a little PL Premium to the flanges when I set them.
The mounting plates also use the T nuts set into a recess done with a Forstner bit. I could have set the heads of the bolts in from below in a counterbore but that would have left less wood. The T nuts only require about a 1/16 inch depression so there's more wood left. This means that some hacksawing and filing of the bolts is needed to cut them to the proper length. Or I could have used more washers. But after seeing the pictures of the work area you can see why I cut the bolts instead of going ghetto with washers....
Okay, got the workbench top on and it's pretty damn solid. I couldn't put the cross braces across the depth due to the drawers, would have rubbed on the top of them, I did however brace the rear of the bench as there was no support there.
My next question is about securing it to the floor. How necessary is this? I'm not doing magnum rifle cartridges or anything, I'll just be doing .223 and pistol calibers. I do notice if I grab the workbench from the bottom and lift up the legs will come off the floor, takes a bit of force though. The only operation I can think of that will move the bench in that direction is priming, which shouldn't put that much force unless I forget to swage a case.
In the event it is necessary, a friend of mine has offered to lend me a hammer drill. How would I go about securing a vertical 2x4 that are the legs of my bench? With a right angle bracket? And what kind of anchors would I use?
My next question is about securing it to the floor. How necessary is this? I'm not doing magnum rifle cartridges or anything, I'll just be doing .223 and pistol calibers. I do notice if I grab the workbench from the bottom and lift up the legs will come off the floor, takes a bit of force though. The only operation I can think of that will move the bench in that direction is priming, which shouldn't put that much force unless I forget to swage a case.
In the event it is necessary, a friend of mine has offered to lend me a hammer drill. How would I go about securing a vertical 2x4 that are the legs of my bench? With a right angle bracket? And what kind of anchors would I use?
If you can lift the table off the floor easily, then you should fasten it down. Use some L brackets or even a couple short bits of angle iron to use as brackets. A hammer drill and a couple of Tapcon screws will make a world of difference. Try reloading a few rounds first to see if the bench lifts up or moves around on you. If it does sit solid for the calibres you reload it may be ok to use as is.
Well, I wouldn't say easily, have to use a little bit of muscle. It is bolted to a stud that's attached to the block wall in my basement, so it's secure there. Don't have a bench mounted press yet, just preparing for it. Mostly wanted to get it done since I was going to be on vacation. When I get home from work I just feel lazy and don't have the motivation to do anything that takes a little bit of effort, haha.
Floor or wall, either is fine. And using screws is one option. Another is to simply load the bench up with tools and other supplies and let gravity hold it solidly in place. If you find it rocks and rattles in use then either keep a more steady and larger stock of bullets around 
or then you can bolt it down to the floor or wall.
Very few floors are level. So some of the rocking you feel might be due simply to the legs not sitting equally on the floor. Try diagonally rocking the bench to see if it's easier in to make it rattle in one direction than the other. Shim as needed to make it sit equally solidly in both diagonal directions. That alone might be all you need when combined with stocking it with the tools and other goodies.
If it still needs to be secured to the floor then a sturdy metal angle bracket will do the job nicely, It doesn't need to be a large bracket. But you want it to be made from a thicker sort of metal so it resists bending.
If you won't ever move it you can secure it in concrete with a 3/16 hole then a regular nail that slips in. To wedge it slip in some soft steel utility wire of a suitable size and then drive the nail. Trust me, you'll have to grind the head off to get that nail out ever again.
But for something a bit less permanent lead jackets and matching lag screws is the usual option. Another is to drive in a short section of wood dowel and then use a screw of a size that will split the dowel and wedge the screw.
Whatever you use doesn't need to be overly large in either diameter or length. So don't go nutz using the big stuff. If you go jackets and lag screws the 1/4 inch stuff is easily good enough.
or then you can bolt it down to the floor or wall.Very few floors are level. So some of the rocking you feel might be due simply to the legs not sitting equally on the floor. Try diagonally rocking the bench to see if it's easier in to make it rattle in one direction than the other. Shim as needed to make it sit equally solidly in both diagonal directions. That alone might be all you need when combined with stocking it with the tools and other goodies.
If it still needs to be secured to the floor then a sturdy metal angle bracket will do the job nicely, It doesn't need to be a large bracket. But you want it to be made from a thicker sort of metal so it resists bending.
If you won't ever move it you can secure it in concrete with a 3/16 hole then a regular nail that slips in. To wedge it slip in some soft steel utility wire of a suitable size and then drive the nail. Trust me, you'll have to grind the head off to get that nail out ever again.
But for something a bit less permanent lead jackets and matching lag screws is the usual option. Another is to drive in a short section of wood dowel and then use a screw of a size that will split the dowel and wedge the screw.
Whatever you use doesn't need to be overly large in either diameter or length. So don't go nutz using the big stuff. If you go jackets and lag screws the 1/4 inch stuff is easily good enough.
Three of us all typing slowly at the same time....
Secured to the back wall in a spot or three is just fine. This will stop it from lifting or coming forward due to the pressure on the press arm. The force you'll use is mostly outwards and down. The return stroke is far lighter and just the weight of the bench and junk in it will hold it down just fine.
You do say just ONE stud. I'd aim at getting the bench secured into at least two just so it ties it down with less risk of walking or pulling that screw.
This still doesn't mean you want to skip the check for the diagonal leg loading thing. Even secured to the wall the bench can rock around a little due to the floor being wonky or the bench having some twist in it. So shim the bench as required so it sits solidly and evenly on it's feet even when not tied back to the wall. And THEN add the screws to secure it to a couple of studs.
Well, I say a stud but it's actually 4, and that's just with the cross braces I put at the rear of the bench, I believe the existing structure that is there is secured as well to the studs.
Basically my test was to get on top of the bench with my body then jump on it. Couldn't feel it moving anywhere.
Also I forgot to mention I screwed the first layer of plywood down, then screwed the second layer from the bottom with 1 1/4" screws. Haven't drilled the grid for the tee nuts yet, plan on doing that when I get the press and can measure/plan a bit more carefully. I'm thinking a 2x4 grid of them spaced 6" apart should do the trick, but again I'm waiting on the press to really get a sense of how it's all going to come together. Figured I'd mount the press to a 2x8, if that gives me enough room on either side for securing the press.
Also, the top layer couldn't be recessed back like the first layer, so I had a bit of overhang, so my buddy suggested I run a skill saw along the edge to flush cut it, bad idea, haha. I ended up gouging and screwing up the front of my bench in a couple spots. Just ended up slapping some wood filler in there and doesn't look too bad. I figure I can give the face of it a coat of paint to hide my shame.
Basically my test was to get on top of the bench with my body then jump on it. Couldn't feel it moving anywhere.
Also I forgot to mention I screwed the first layer of plywood down, then screwed the second layer from the bottom with 1 1/4" screws. Haven't drilled the grid for the tee nuts yet, plan on doing that when I get the press and can measure/plan a bit more carefully. I'm thinking a 2x4 grid of them spaced 6" apart should do the trick, but again I'm waiting on the press to really get a sense of how it's all going to come together. Figured I'd mount the press to a 2x8, if that gives me enough room on either side for securing the press.
Also, the top layer couldn't be recessed back like the first layer, so I had a bit of overhang, so my buddy suggested I run a skill saw along the edge to flush cut it, bad idea, haha. I ended up gouging and screwing up the front of my bench in a couple spots. Just ended up slapping some wood filler in there and doesn't look too bad. I figure I can give the face of it a coat of paint to hide my shame.
