Help....my brass is hard to insert/remove

Ruger30-06

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Im reloading 38 special (to start with) and ive done my first batch of reloads. Now my reloaded rounds are difficult to insert and remove out of my Model 10 (both before and after fireing).

Any ideas?
 
Are you adjusting your sizing die all the way down so it resizes to the base? Also is there carbon build up in t he cylinders of your k frame. Most smith cylinders are fairly loose (as opposed to old colts) and generally chambering problems are resizing or dirt related. Also are your bullets over size? they should be about .357 for jacketed and .358-.359 for lead at the most.
Hope some of this helps
Andy
 
The likely causes are;

1) Your brass hasn't been sized properly. Adjust the sizing die down until it makes light contact with the shellplate.

2) Your bullets are seated out too far, and are hitting the chamber throat. Adjust the seating stem in until the bullets crimp groove is at the level of the case mouth.

3) You are belling your cases, but not returning the mouths to flush with the crimper. Adjust the crimper until it crimps the case mouth to remove the belling.

4) The seating depth of the bullets is swelling the cases, creating a bulge that doesn't fit the chamber properly. Revisit the seating depth if needed, and consider the Lee Factory Crimp die to remove post seating bulges.
 
Played around with the dies today.

Did another dummy round. It seems its only the last part of the casing it gets hard to put into the cylinder.
 
:needPics:

But is it hard at the back of the case, or at the mouth of the case in the cylinder part way?

I've played this game too, its most likely the ammo, either not sized properly, or not crimped properly. A dirty cylinder is a distinct possibility too. Pull out your handy loading manual and check the cartridge diameter specs. measure it along it's lenght and find out where it is oversized. At the bottom, you haven't sized it down, you need to adjust your sizing die lower. At the top, you are either belling too much and/or not crimping to take it out again.

The lazy way to fix the ones loaded is to pull the decap rod out of your sizing die and run em thru that. But before you do, figure out what the problem is so you don't repeat it.
 
A case gauge is an essential accessory for the reloader, in my opinion.

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Take a fired case, one that chambers with difficulty.

Run it through your sizer and decapper die. Do not prime the case. Try chambering the case - is it easy or is it difficult? If difficult, adjust your sizer downwards, until the case freely chambers.

Bell the case (if you do this step). See if the belled case chambers freely or not. If it chambers with some resistance, that not necessarily a bad thing. If there is resistance, then run the case into your seating die (without a bullet), in order to apply whatever roll crimp you have adjusted for. This ought to chamber freely - if not, screw your seating die down in small steps, until you get enough roll crimp to take out the case mouth expansion and have the sized-belled-crimped case chamber freely.

Back up a step, bell the case again. Now seat a bullet (no powder, no primer). Does this bulleted dummy round chamber freely? If not, it is because your bullet is hitting (or perhaps your chamber is dirty), or the bullet is oversized and is swelling the case mouth too much. In the former case you can fix this by adjusting the seater stem to seat the bullet deeper, until it chambers freely. If the bullet is swelling the case too much, you need to find a brass/bullet combination that fits in your chamber.
 
Ruger30-06 ......

This is a very common symptom with the .38 Special. That brass is very thin, and too much downward pressure (during reloading) will bulge the case.

The fix is to use a better case expander that allows your particular bullets to start with less downward pressure. The Lee crimp die does a great job, but I prefer the look of a good roll crimp - just don't over-do the crimp.

- Innovative
 
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