HELP. MY M1 Carbine Not Completely Ejecting Shells, Any Advice Would Be Appreciated

albayo

albayo

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I have an M1 Carbine Inland that shoots OK but wont completely eject the shell casings.
The cases get hung up on the extractor causing stove pipes.
It has the round bolt, I cleaned it but I may have missed giving one part special attention.
Thanks
Al
 
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I would check the extractor for burrs/damage. Check the ejector pin and spring. Carbon fouling on the gas port/gas piston. Using a usgi recoil spring?

I’d start with the first two
 
1st try different ammo

check gas piston can you move it in and out freely? they can carbon up be warned you NEED the gi wrench to remove the nut trying something else will lead to damage they were also often staked

check ejector

damaged extractor

worn op rod spring

did you use grease to lube it? (They need grease) was it below freezing when you shot it?

have you fired this rifle before, and did it work then? if so, what's different since then?
 
contact148 said:
1st try different ammo

check gas piston can you move it in and out freely? they can carbon up be warned you NEED the gi wrench to remove the nut trying something else will lead to damage they were also often staked

check ejector

damaged extractor

worn op rod spring

did you use grease to lube it? (They need grease) was it below freezing when you shot it?

have you fired this rifle before, and did it work then? if so, what's different since then?
Click to expand...

Honestly I think the issue is ejector or extractor. If the ejector was bad it wouldnt let it release from extractor. If the extractor was bad it would skip the rim and would not eject. If it was the OP rod spring, it wouldn't fully return to battery. So the force of the bolt slamming back should be enough to dislodge the case from the bolt. Since it's not, the extractor holding it tight, so goes back to my theory of the ejector.
 
OkayShooter said:
Honestly I think the issue is ejector or extractor. If the ejector was bad it wouldnt let it release from extractor. If the extractor was bad it would skip the rim and would not eject. If it was the OP rod spring, it wouldn't fully return to battery. So the force of the bolt slamming back should be enough to dislodge the case from the bolt. Since it's not, the extractor holding it tight, so goes back to my theory of the ejector.
Click to expand...
I would go in order action spring, extractor, ejector. A dead action spring will still go in battery. Its dead but not that dead that it wont go home. Most times you wouldnt even notice its dead as its still springy. Ammo related is also a problem with weak "factory" ammo. Last would be bad piston. If piston is sticky, the piston would most likely be forced out with gas pressure and stay out leaving the bolt unable to go home....first sign and possible OOB kaaboom for the novice especially if it goes "almost" home and stops. The carbine will still run with a bad/broken ejector most times. Also too strong an action spring is also a culprit.
 
Back to basics. Is this a usgi gun or commercial copy?

As mentioned by someone else, very first thing to try is cleaning the gun thoroughly. Then try different ammo, ideally US made ammo.

If that doesn't work, I'd get a cheap repro piston wrench and clean the piston and it's recess.

Still having issues, next would be to put in adifferent usgi recoil spring, assuming it's a usgi gun and not a Plainfield, over Johnson, auto ordnance, etc.

If you want to check the ejector, take the bolt out and put a cartridge under the extractor, cam it into place. Release the cartridge. Does it pop out of the bolt? If yes, the ejector is probably ok.
 
M1 Inland
Took it apart again and really gave it a good cleaning, took the piston out and cleaned it.
The extractor is OK, ejector works fine, the recoil spring has been replaced.
The bolt runs smoother now, the old spring has a couple of places that have been pulled to give it more tension.
Next will be a trip to the range to see how it works.
Thanks
Al
 
Look for a good scraper... like dental picks. IRRC I got a 5 pack from P.Auto years ago. Ive also seen polymer ones that might be easier on the scrapes and scratches dept but just looked to fragile to dig under extractors
 
A can of Brake-clean works wonders for cleaning the muck from the extractor area. Remove bolt from receiver first though, as the brake-clean can dissolve stock finish. Inspect the extractor carefully, sometimes they appear to look ok, but in fact, the claw area can become worn down or chipped/broken.

Most issues with the carbines I have found are related to weak ejector springs, and weak extractor springs/worn extractor claws. Rarely are mags ever an issue unless the feed lips are bent or modified and drag across the bottom of the bolt.
 
The action would't work smoothly with the old spring.
There were some spots when working the action that felt like it was binding.
I will get it ready for the range the next time its favorable conditions to go to the range.
 
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