HELP Need The Best Bonding Agent To Repair Cracked Grip On High Standard Model 100?

The G2 is one of the epoxies packaged and sold by Fiber-Tek out of Burnaby.

The Loctite Super Bonder is just re-packaged cyanoacrylate glue the same as sold by any number of firms. And clearly they are charging you a lot for the name. When I used Super Bonder at work the thinnest version equated to the "medium" thickness formula of CA glue from the model hobby shops. The thicker the formula the longer the set time. But really, if the Super Bonder is taking a couple of minutes to kick off then the materials you are gluing are not "glue friendly" or the glue is old stock which was not stored correctly.

As mentioned previously CA glue has a shelf life. That shelf life is extended when it's stored in a fridge or freezer. But out in the open at room temperature you can expect about a year before it's no good.

For comparison the time over the years that I've had to glue bakelite pieces back together I used good fresh "thin" formula CA and the bond was solid within seconds. Because this all happened so fast is why I'm suggesting that the pieces are held tightly together and the thin CA is touched to the hidden side of the crack where it can wick in courtesy of the low viscosity and then kick off to bond the joint.

KMS here in the Fraser Valley is currently offering a line of CA glue from thin to thick. I don't recall the name but I've used the brand in the past when I bought it from model hobby shops. It's a good and proper CA glue which would work just fine for this sort of repair.
 
BCRider said:
...KMS here in the Fraser Valley is currently offering a line of CA glue from thin to thick. I don't recall the name but I've used the brand in the past when I bought it from model hobby shops. It's a good and proper CA glue which would work just fine for this sort of repair.
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It's from BSI-inc.com (Bob Smith Industries) in Atascadero, California I think. The stuff I got from KMS(?) several years ago and used on my Marlin 1895 had a different name but as I recall also came from California. Like many products it's probably all made by the same manufacturer and then repackaged under different distributors' names.

I remember a few years ago someone found that a popular bore cleaner that was particularly good at removing carbon fouling was the same as GM Top Engine Cleaner, the difference being that the bore cleaner was about $10 for 4 oz. and the GM product was $8 for 16 oz. It may well have been available as an industrial solvent in gallon tins for $32, too.

:) Stuart
 
I didn't read all the above posts but being dirt and OIL FREE is way more important than the epoxy. Many materials soak up oils into the pores and will not release them easily. Simply giving the surface a wipe with alcohol is NOT good enough at all. I have warned several people of this only to watch them fail and usually ruin the piece to the point I'm not touching it. Take a wood stock for example. It soaks up oil very very well. Wiping it off with alcohol DOES NOT work. I haven't epoxied Bakelite but if it can soak up oil, a repair will not work unless you get the oils back out.
 
The good news is that true bakelite isn't porous so it won't soak up any oil. The bad news is that can be sensitive to some of the more common degreasing solvents. And as you say alcohol isn't the proper solvent for petroleum based oils.

As I've seen it explained there's polar and non polar solvents out there. Alcohol is one of these and things like acetone, brake cleaner, mineral spirits and Varsol is the other. The last ones are the sort which mixes with oil and allows it to be flushed away. Alcohol doesn't and won't for anything other than mineral oil.
 
That will not work on these grips, they will not melt like plastic will.
I have used CA on one set.
Fargone4sure said:
Assuming that Bakelight is just a plastic, it can be plastic welded. I've done grips this way where you can't even see the cracked. You use a good powered soldering gun. You can Google for more info on it.
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You can buy epoxies in different viscosities, anywhere from margarine- like which can be trowelled onto overhead surfaces, to super thin, which will penetrate cracks of a few thousandths of an inch. It is often used to repair cracks in concrete. National Concrete Accessories ( NCA ) is a distributor where I have purchased such products. You will likely have to buy a caulking tube size volume of it though, roughly around $30.00.
 
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