Help Needed - Lower Mainland M14 Owner *UPDATED*

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Thanks for posting! I have not done the receiver/barrel yet, but did some of the small parts at 350 max for 30 mins.

Not all areas of the parts were coated, and on the un-coated areas I saw no colour change except for the fact that any remaining traces of oil/grease had cooked off and dried out.

I think I'll play it safe and keep the max to 250-300 for the receiver.

Thanks again for the info.
 
350 is plenty fine. Anything hardened and tempered at 350 would be brittle as hell. There are pleeeenty of people who cerekote their barrels/receivers (which is baked at 350 as previously stated) Even manufacturers do it from the factory. But 500 I think is definitely pushing it as far as safe heat is concerned. (but again I dont know what the heat treatment process is on these receivers.)
 
I've had a few barrels that were "bears" to remove on norks..... Like 6 foot cheater bar and 2 strong lads tight.....

The last one that was bad (probably the worst yet IMHO) when I finally broke it loose, it hand tightend at 30 degrees.... I estimate 250+ ft lbs to beak it loose.....

I scrapped the barrel, as I am sure the threads were stretched pretty good, and the face of the receiver was "marked up" pretty good too.....

I've also had a few that were hard to remove due to "rust welding".... Which isn't actually all that bad, a wire wheel to remove the rust and "Bobs your uncle!".

I could very easily remove the barrel for ya, but Barney is way cheaper than I am.... And probably better at than me too!

Cheers!
Yo needed two guys and a snipe to break 250lbs?? I suspect it was on a lot tighter than 250lbs
 
^^^
Thanks for posting! I have not done the receiver/barrel yet, but did some of the small parts at 350 max for 30 mins.

Not all areas of the parts were coated, and on the un-coated areas I saw no colour change except for the fact that any remaining traces of oil/grease had cooked off and dried out.

I think I'll play it safe and keep the max to 250-300 for the receiver.

Thanks again for the info.

Tempering temperature and colour of carbon steels
Temp in CColourApplication
220Pale yellowHacksaw blades
230Light yellowPlaning and slotting tools, hammers
240Straw yellowMilling cutters, drills, reamers
250Dark yellowTaps, dies, shear blades, punches
260Brown-yellowWood drills, stone-cutting tools
270Brown-purpleAxe blades, press tools
280PurpleCold chisels, wood chisels, plane blades
290Dark purpleScrew drivers
300Dark blueWood saws, springs
450-700Up to dark redGreat toughness at expense of hardness

I've made springs before by tempering to dark blue.. it was fun.
 
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