Help on cleaning my 10FP barrel

Ruthless

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I went to shoot my 10fp on the weekend and was using cheepo American Eagle FMJBT 150gr bullets, well these little suckers really durtied up my barrel

any tips on getting it cleaned, I'm using Hoppe's 9 as a solven but most of the copped is at the last 2" of the barrel and I'm afraid of damaging the crown with the bristles of the bronze brush :mad:

any tips????

should I try that bore-snake? :slap:
or another solvent (will NOT use anything like Rem-Clean or JB...:cool:)
 
I went to shoot my 10fp on the weekend and was using cheepo American Eagle FMJBT 150gr bullets, well these little suckers really durtied up my barrel

any tips on getting it cleaned, I'm using Hoppe's 9 as a solven but most of the copped is at the last 2" of the barrel and I'm afraid of damaging the crown with the bristles of the bronze brush :mad:

any tips????

should I try that bore-snake? :slap:
or another solvent (will NOT use anything like Rem-Clean or JB...:cool:)

First off, get a bore guide and clean from the chamber.

Hoppe's Benchrest is a good solvent to use regularly. Do not use bronze brushes with that, use a bore mop, and then ptight fitting patches.

"will NOT use anything like Rem-Clean or JB"


Why not?
 
First off, get a bore guide and clean from the chamber.

Hoppe's Benchrest is a good solvent to use regularly. Do not use bronze brushes with that, use a bore mop, and then ptight fitting patches.

"will NOT use anything like Rem-Clean or JB"


Why not?

I do clean from chamber up

Rem-Clean and JB eaten through my buddy's barrels few times :slap:, seemed that they were damaging the barrel plating
 
You won't use Rem-clean or JB Paste but you would use a Boresnake:slap::runaway:
Like RePete said, get a bore guide a one piece rod (Dewey). Nylon brushes and a proper jag with tight fitting patches. If a bronze brush is all you have on hand, push it through the barrel from the breech end and remove it from the rod.
Myself, Hoppe's would be the last thing I would reach for when cleaning a rifle. You might want to try some Gunslick foaming bore cleaner for effortless bore cleaning.
 
Don't panic on the muzzle copper. I have a Ruger M77 (30-06) that always shows a little orange/brown near the muzzle. The copper is on the recesses of the barrel and I have tried everything to get it shiney clean. I have owned this rifle since new (1981?) and it was always cleaned the same day it was shot. I haven't lost accuracy or had any other problems to date. I wish I could get rid of my light fouling too but after hundreds of patches, dozens of brushes, and many bottles of bore solvents I pretty much just except that the bore has it's "personality". I agree with RePete...get a bore guide (mtm bore guide for you rifle is about $9.00) and clean from the chamber to muzzle.
 
You won't use Rem-clean or JB Paste but you would use a Boresnake:slap::runaway:
Like RePete said, get a bore guide a one piece rod (Dewey). Nylon brushes and a proper jag with tight fitting patches. If a bronze brush is all you have on hand, push it through the barrel from the breech end and remove it from the rod.
Myself, Hoppe's would be the last thing I would reach for when cleaning a rifle. You might want to try some Gunslick foaming bore cleaner for effortless bore cleaning.

I will order Dewey guide and one-piece rod

I'll pick up a bore guide from LeMorons, plus I was really, really careful without the guide when I was cleaning :wave:

how's the foam? do I just plug the breech and spray it from the crown down, then wait for few mins and clean???? :)

Gunslick is that the product name? one kind or diff kinds?
 
I picked up a can of Gunslick as a last ditch effort for get copper and moly out of the barrel. I tried Sweet's 7.62, Rem-Clean and JB Paste. I was amazed at how well the gunslick worked with no effort.
Spray it down the barrel from the breech end until it comes out the muzzle. Let it sit for 15 minutes and patch it out.
I am sure there are other foam cleaners that will work just as well.
 
I picked up a can of Gunslick as a last ditch effort for get copper and moly out of the barrel. I tried Sweet's 7.62, Rem-Clean and JB Paste. I was amazed at how well the gunslick worked with no effort.
Spray it down the barrel from the breech end until it comes out the muzzle. Let it sit for 15 minutes and patch it out.
I am sure there are other foam cleaners that will work just as well.

no scabbing???

that would be easy:D
 
I picked up a can of Gunslick as a last ditch effort for get copper and moly out of the barrel. I tried Sweet's 7.62, Rem-Clean and JB Paste. I was amazed at how well the gunslick worked with no effort.
Spray it down the barrel from the breech end until it comes out the muzzle. Let it sit for 15 minutes and patch it out.
I am sure there are other foam cleaners that will work just as well.

I got myself a can of gunslick foam too as Hoppe's Benchrest would not cut it. 2 applications later all of the copper was gone!
 
Well guys you have me wondering about my Ruger. I guess I'll have to try this Gunslick foam you have mentioned. Can someone post the paticulars of the product so I get the right one (product #).
Thanks everyone.
 
Well guys you have me wondering about my Ruger. I guess I'll have to try this Gunslick foam you have mentioned. Can someone post the paticulars of the product so I get the right one (product #).
Thanks everyone.

It's called Gunslick Foaming Bore Cleaner and comes in a blue pressurised container with a transparent tube sticking out parallel to the bottle. Can't miss it.
 
Anyone who pushes a rod through the bore instead of pulling one through via the muzzle is retarded. Drop the rod through the breach, attach the T handle and pull the brush/mop/patch through. You'll never break a rod and you'll never damage your crown. Anyone who believes that an aluminum coated rod bumping their crown or chamber will affect accuracy, needs to lower their dosage.

99% of shooters(that's everyone) will probably never shoot their rifles to their full potential. Concerning yourself with a possible loss or gain of 1/10 MOA in your groupings when you have a 2 MOA flinch is pointless. All the best gear in the world won't improve your skills.

Clean the rifle with some care and attention. Shoot it lots, and I'm sure you're skills and your scores will improve.

TDC
 
Thanks Maynard and Radarbeam. I will pick some Gunslick up tomorrow and will post my results here.

Well guys, once again thank-you for your advice. I tried the gunslick foam and it worked. It took 3, 1/2 hr applications to get the copper out but it is done ( no scrubbing). All that remains is a small bit of orange on the back edge of one of the lands. 5 of 6 lands cleaned perfect, one with 5mm left at the very end of the barrel. So for the time being I am happy with the result.

You all could have warned me about using it for the first time when I just pushed the tube into the chamber and depressed the valve all the way down fast.....mercy ! reminded me of the time I first used shaving cream in a can.....I'm sure you get the picture. LOL thanks all.
 
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Anyone who pushes a rod through the bore instead of pulling one through via the muzzle is retarded. Drop the rod through the breach, attach the T handle and pull the brush/mop/patch through. You'll never break a rod and you'll never damage your crown. Anyone who believes that an aluminum coated rod bumping their crown or chamber will affect accuracy, needs to lower their dosage.

99% of shooters(that's everyone) will probably never shoot their rifles to their full potential. Concerning yourself with a possible loss or gain of 1/10 MOA in your groupings when you have a 2 MOA flinch is pointless. All the best gear in the world won't improve your skills.

Clean the rifle with some care and attention. Shoot it lots, and I'm sure you're skills and your scores will improve.

TDC

Where did you learn that cleaning method :onCrack:I have been around the fullbore shooting game for about 16 years and have never seen anyone pull a rod from the muzzle end. Then again I have never seen a serious competitve shooter use an aluminum rod either.:runaway: There are plenty of shooters that shoot F Class that come from a Benchrest background. I have never seen them pull a rod through a barrel either, and some of these guys are anal about cleaning.
 
M-Pro 7

Check out the M-Pro 7 product line (ww w.mpro7.com) , they advertise a complete cleaning kit as well. I am trying to locate a Canadian source to try some. If their claims are accurate it should solve your problem.

Regards
 
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sources on bore-guide???

went to LeMoron's none, called Al Flaherty's and Bass Pro none

anyone else in the area??? :confused:


ps. this is so frustrating when you got cash to spend on stuff but none in stock or shops just don't carry it :sniper:
 
How about a Stoney Point bore guide? Or MTM? Nothing? You can always order one from Sinclair's. You can clean your rifle without one.
 
Where did you learn that cleaning method :onCrack:I have been around the fullbore shooting game for about 16 years and have never seen anyone pull a rod from the muzzle end. Then again I have never seen a serious competitve shooter use an aluminum rod either.:runaway: There are plenty of shooters that shoot F Class that come from a Benchrest background. I have never seen them pull a rod through a barrel either, and some of these guys are anal about cleaning.

Just because something has been done for many years doesn't mean its been done right, or that there is only one method. Why fight with the flex in a rod when pushing from the breach when you can pull the rod through with ease via the muzzle. by removing the rod with each pass you aren't dragging a dirty rod back through your barrel as well.

As I mentioned. The use of a coated aluminum(even steel) rod will not do any sort of damage to your rifing. If damage occurs, you have a sh*tty barrel. Again, not to say that long standing practices are right, but the military has been using steel sectional rods for many years and they seem to have no issues with it.

Worrying about the possible chance of damage to your barrel from cleaning is a wasted effort when considering the system. Many rifles have inferior mounts and rings. Cheap optics, non free floated stocks. Many will not buy or use expensive match grade ammo, many shooters hardly fire more than 100 rounds a year out of their rifles. All these factors compounded by the shooters experience or lack thereof. The result is a lot of fine detail conerns to a coarse fundamental problem.

TDC
 
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