Help, stuck case in chamber, live

C

coach71

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Here goes. Got this basically new 223 Vanguard, only 20 shots down the pipe. So my teenager chambered a round that was fire formed in another gun. Really forced it in, then tried to poke it out with a wooden dowel. Ended up pushing the bullet into the casing and broke off a piece of the dowel. Got the dowel out with a cleaning rod. Poured in some wd-40, then water. Some of the powder washed out with the water. Then tried removing the casing by tapping on the cleaning rod, no go. Was then able to force the bolt down, but round doesn't eject. More forceful tapping with the rod, no go.

So that's where it's at. Really don't know what to do. If I would've been there on time, I would have fired the round. I think now the powder is inert, but don't want to take the chance of really tapping hard. Very frustrated here. The kid was really looking forward to calling coyotes and is really disappointed. I'm temped to put the gun on the buy/sell board as is, rather than paying a smith $200 to get this out.
 
If there is no obstruction in the barrel you may try to fire it if possible. At the very least you will likely get the primer to ignite and maybe the powder that's left as well. Once you know there is no further danger of detonation you can go at it with some more force? Not sure if this the best advice but I think it is what I would do in your situation.
 
Bugger. It appears you still have the bolt engaged correct. If so, then try lifting the bolt and tap the bolt handle with a rubber mallet or piece of lumber. Doing so may force the round out. However, it may force the extractor over the case and at least you can remove the bolt. Then, if you have removed the bolt use a good one piece cleaning rod (preferably coated with plastic) and taping the round out again. Otherwise, it sounds like a barrel removal project to me. Other ideas?
 
Miaugi said:
If there is no obstruction in the barrel you may try to fire it if possible. At the very least you will likely get the primer to ignite and maybe the powder that's left as well. Once you know there is no further danger of detonation you can go at it with some more force? Not sure if this the best advice but I think it is what I would do in your situation.
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No he pushed the bullet into the case and will pipe bomb. If it sets off the powder. Its why people shouldnt use that winchester 45 grn in semi auto. The crimp isn't enough to hold while the round is chambered and pipe bombs.

Grease would push it. Try freezing the action. Then hammering it out. With sections of wooden down so they dont splinter as much.
 
Miaugi said:
If there is no obstruction in the barrel you may try to fire it if possible. At the very least you will likely get the primer to ignite and maybe the powder that's left as well. Once you know there is no further danger of detonation you can go at it with some more force? Not sure if this the best advice but I think it is what I would do in your situation.
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DON'T DO THIS!!! If the bullet is pushed into your casing there is is potential for dangerously high chamber pressures. Your best bet is to take the gun to a reputable gun Smith who will remove the barrel, carefully drill a hole in the case base, remove the primer and the powder and then extract the case.

Firing the case is an option when the case is a little oversized (in diameter) and the bolt can be closed, and most importantly - when the bullet has not been pushed into the casing.
 
Good grief! DO NOT USE WOOD DOWELS - Terrible advice. Do not attempt to fire it - terrible advice.

Something to do - take it to an experienced gunsmith. It may be able to be driven out with a close fitting coated steel rod 2 inches longer than the the barrel... or the barrel may have to be removed..
 
Worked on it a bit just now. With water mixed with a bit of detergent, we've basically washed all the powder out. Left the barrel soaked in water for a while, then cleaned out, closed the bolt and fired. The primer didn't detonate, so I think we're safe now to do some forceful tapping.
 
Obviously the best option would be to thread tap the inside of the muzzle, fill the barrel with water, screw a bolt soaked in JB weld into your freshly tapped muzzle, then leave the gun outside for a few hours. As the water freezes, it will expand and push the casing out. Or split the barrel.

Actually, it's probably better that the barrel splits. That way, when you fire the next round, the gasses will have somewhere to go when the bullet slams into your shiny new muzzle bolt.

You're welcome.
 
coach71 said:
Worked on it a bit just now. With water mixed with a bit of detergent, we've basically washed all the powder out. Left the barrel soaked in water for a while, then cleaned out, closed the bolt and fired. The primer didn't detonate, so I think we're safe now to do some forceful tapping.
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Do it with a close fitting steel rod with a flat end... you can wrap a bit of tape around every 6 inches of so to stop it from slapping the bare rifling when you pound on it... it will take more than tapping... make the steel rod as short as possible... remove the bolt and pound away...
 
Remove bolt.
Spray some liquid wrench around the bore and let it seep in around the stock case for a few mins, apply more if needed.
Get a long brass rod close to the caliber diameter as possible.
Cut a Toonie or bigger sized piece of foam rubber/neoprene etc and punch the brass rod through it to protect the muzzle for possible damage.
With a hammer FIRMLY tap the open end of the brass rod until the spent shell is ejected.
 
Relief!

I let it sit outside -15 for an hour. Sprayed a bunch of Wd-40 into the bore and let it seep in. Sat the action on a solid wood table, inserted a brass rod and it took about 10 really hard hits with the hammer to get the bugger out. Thanks guys
 
that idea works but the steel rod has to be the projectile diameter minus a bit, that way the rod pushes on the brass base, if its larger the potential to deform brass into the bore making it even tighter

guntech said:
Do it with a close fitting steel rod with a flat end... you can wrap a bit of tape around every 6 inches of so to stop it from slapping the bare rifling when you pound on it... it will take more than tapping... make the steel rod as short as possible... remove the bolt and pound away...
Click to expand...
 
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