I started with an RCBS kit almost 20 years ago. I still use the press and the scale, but most other stuff has been upgraded. If I did it again I wouldn’t buy a kit. Simply piece it together as you need. Lyman and Lee both make inexpensive drill trimmers.
Help with a Reloading Set Up
- Thread starter Landris
- Start date
Those kits have a lot of crap you likely don't need for rifle reloading. What you need (other than the brass, bullets, primers, lube, tumbler media and powder of your choice):
A good comprehensive reloading manual - Lyman, Lee, or some other manual NOT published by a bullet maker. Most bullet-makers' data is online anyway, but there is really really good information about hand loading in those manuals. Read the front sections well. The rest of the book is load data charts.
A single stage press. They're inexpensive and they'll last forever. A used RCBS Rockchucker or similar would be where I'd start. Avoid progressive, semi-progressive, etc presses. If you're loading for 2 rifle calibres, you'll be happy with the single stage press.
Your 270WSM and 308WIN dies - I like RCBS, but honestly, one is just as good as another unless you're getting into competitive shooting. Get FL 2-die sets and learn how to use them to only bump the shoulders back a couple thou. Your brass will last longer.
A cheap vibratory tumbler - I like the Lyman, but again, one is just as good as another. You can start out by cleaning them by hand, but I wouldn't.
A powder measure/dispenser, or a set of Lee dippers - unless I'm loading more than 25 rounds, I don't bother with the powder thrower. The dippers and the trickler work just fine. I would recommend you get a powder measure though. I like my Forster one and my Lyman. They'll all work for you though.
A trickler
A scale - Here's where you don't want to pinch pennies. You don't need to spend a fortune either, but really avoid the cheap crap. I'd recommend a Dillon balance beam scale. Electronic scales are good too, but in order to get a good one, you've got to spend some money. A balance beam has no electronics to fail on you, calibration takes 2 seconds, and they're more accurate. The Dillon is made by Ohaus. You can get Ohaus scales on Amazon too. The older RCBS scales are good, the Lee one is garbage, not sure about Hornady or Lyman.
A hand primer, unless you want to use the one built into the press - most people use hand primers. The Lee hand primeer actually works really well, but it uses special shell holders. An RCBS, for example, uses the same shell holders that the press uses - this is the way I'd go.
Calipers
----
You'll pick up extras as you go (bullet pullers, headspace gauges, caliber-specific funnels, etc.)
Add all that up and you're nowhere near the prices you've quoted. Most of this stuff is easily found on EE for half the price of retail. - On thing about used gear - I'd never buy a used electronic scale, and I'd never buy a used powder measure - other than that, same your money for primers, powder and bullets - which cost a fortune.
Good luck and be safe.
A good comprehensive reloading manual - Lyman, Lee, or some other manual NOT published by a bullet maker. Most bullet-makers' data is online anyway, but there is really really good information about hand loading in those manuals. Read the front sections well. The rest of the book is load data charts.
A single stage press. They're inexpensive and they'll last forever. A used RCBS Rockchucker or similar would be where I'd start. Avoid progressive, semi-progressive, etc presses. If you're loading for 2 rifle calibres, you'll be happy with the single stage press.
Your 270WSM and 308WIN dies - I like RCBS, but honestly, one is just as good as another unless you're getting into competitive shooting. Get FL 2-die sets and learn how to use them to only bump the shoulders back a couple thou. Your brass will last longer.
A cheap vibratory tumbler - I like the Lyman, but again, one is just as good as another. You can start out by cleaning them by hand, but I wouldn't.
A powder measure/dispenser, or a set of Lee dippers - unless I'm loading more than 25 rounds, I don't bother with the powder thrower. The dippers and the trickler work just fine. I would recommend you get a powder measure though. I like my Forster one and my Lyman. They'll all work for you though.
A trickler
A scale - Here's where you don't want to pinch pennies. You don't need to spend a fortune either, but really avoid the cheap crap. I'd recommend a Dillon balance beam scale. Electronic scales are good too, but in order to get a good one, you've got to spend some money. A balance beam has no electronics to fail on you, calibration takes 2 seconds, and they're more accurate. The Dillon is made by Ohaus. You can get Ohaus scales on Amazon too. The older RCBS scales are good, the Lee one is garbage, not sure about Hornady or Lyman.
A hand primer, unless you want to use the one built into the press - most people use hand primers. The Lee hand primeer actually works really well, but it uses special shell holders. An RCBS, for example, uses the same shell holders that the press uses - this is the way I'd go.
Calipers
----
You'll pick up extras as you go (bullet pullers, headspace gauges, caliber-specific funnels, etc.)
Add all that up and you're nowhere near the prices you've quoted. Most of this stuff is easily found on EE for half the price of retail. - On thing about used gear - I'd never buy a used electronic scale, and I'd never buy a used powder measure - other than that, same your money for primers, powder and bullets - which cost a fortune.
Good luck and be safe.
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- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
Here’s what the Hornady single stage press kit comes with, what do you consider crap and not needed for reloading? Depending on where you buy it, it’ll run you $599-675 before taxes.
Single Stage Press, Powder Measure, Digital Scale, Handbook of Cartridge Reloading, die bushings, Primer Catcher, Priming System (Small and Large Primer Cups Included, Handheld Priming Tool, Universal Reloading Block, Chamfering and Deburring Tool, Powder Funnel and Trickler, 5.5 oz can Aerosol Case Lube
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I started with a single stage Lyman kit about twelve years ago. Over the year I’m pretty sure I have used everything that came in it. I’m sure some kits are better than others but at the time I bought mine on sale it was a smoking deal. That being said there is nothing wrong with buying used stuff. A lot of the mechanical reloading tools have a life span far longer than why they are used.
Hi Landris,
PM me your email and I will share few gigs of reloading pdf manuals.
My suggestion is to look at single stage presses on E.E, don't buy new. Youtube is also your friend, search for reviews before buying anything. I wish it was around when I started reloading.
Cheers,
I put together a reloading kit for my son from used stuff found a couple of gunshows . But I knew what I was looking for. I started with the Lee kit from Wholesale Sports. It was 1/4 the price of the RCBS Rockchucker kit. And it did everything the RCBS kit did.
Both those kits will work, also some of the LEE products are just as good.
Personally I wouldn't buy a kit but instead would buy individual pieces because I know what I like and more importantly I know what I don't like. The kits tend to have some pieces you will find useless and no individual manufacturer does everything perfectly. However since you are starting new then a kit might be good starting point.
Greenbob has some great links to pdf manuals, take him up on his offer.
There is some really good info in this old thread: What needed to start reloading (canadiangunnutz.com)
To get started with the most basic/starter reloading set up, you will need this:
1. Press (single stage) O frame
2. Scale (beam scale) for weighing powder charges and bullets.
3. Priming tool (some presses come with a priming tool, LEE for example)
4. reloading die set for your chosen cartridge AND shell holder (LEE dies come with shell holder)
5. trimmer (not needed for most handgun cartridges) use the LEE handheld trimmers for about $15
6. powder funnel
7. loading block (easy to make it yourself with a piece of 2x4 and a drill)
8. case preparation tools (inside/outside neck chamfer, large and small primer pocket cleaners)
9. caliper (digital or dial)
10. bullet puller, because you will need one eventually
This is a basic setup that will make excellent quality ammunition and is all that many shooters will ever require. At some point you may want to add a powder measure and some kind of brass cleaning machine but you don't need it right away. An experienced reloader can make 50-100 cartridges per hour with that setup.
That kit actually sound like a decent start. I don’t care for the die bushings, but I know others love them. Priming with the hand primer is the way to go IMO, so the other priming stuff is redundant.
The big question is about that press. (Sorry but I’m not familiar with the kit details). Is it cast, and how heavy is it. Is it O frame, C frame, pyramid, coax etc. I’d say get the best, sturdiest single-stage press you can afford and it’ll last you for the rest of your life. You don’t want any deflection when you’re lifting up or reefing down that lever. Generally though, Hornady makes good stuff.
A good press accurately lines the case up with the die. It's not that easy to test to test, if it was, I would have done it long ago. The fixtures require machined parts. Thirty years ago, I read on a forum that a fellow that did do the test, he tested single stage presses from Lyman, RCBS and Hornady. I think in those days they were called Orange Crusher, Rockchuker and 007,two of the names have since changed. He found the most accurately made one was the Lyman. But he felt it was more a case of the luck of the draw than paint colour. He then moved on to a Co-Ax. I got a used Co-Ax and I'm loving it.
John Barness in his series "The Big Book of Gun Gack" one, two, three and four, has a couple of chapters on adjusting dies to avoid run out . Those chapters should not be just read, rather studied like you would be tested on them.
John Barness in his series "The Big Book of Gun Gack" one, two, three and four, has a couple of chapters on adjusting dies to avoid run out . Those chapters should not be just read, rather studied like you would be tested on them.
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
It’s an O frame, cast aluminum I believe. I prefer priming on the press after I flare case mouths but the hand primer works fine, to each their own though as both ways work fine. I like the die bushings so far as it’s simple to set up and switch dies, it’s a well built press and the kit doesn’t come with anything you don’t need. I bought a beam scale but use the digital the kit came with, which is spot on with my beam anytime I check powder charges between the two. The hornady powder measure is really consistent, for kits it’s pretty solid.
Look around for a used single stage RCBS or LEE press. If you are only loading those 2 calibers it is a cheap way to start. Get LEE dies (all i use), get the Franklin Arsenault case and prep trim center (worth it for time saved in bottle cartridges and cleaning primer holes), get the LEE deprimming Die with 5 extra pins (i have deprimmed 20,000 rounds, filed the end twice on 1st pin before finally breaking one). The deprimming die saves your expensive dies and depriming pin breakage problems...then trying to source and new pin for your caliber specific die. Walnut media and use brasso - I have had the same media in the tumbler for 5 yrs now. Get some Lemme Shine once deprimed and resize, I drop them in a bucket of lemmi shine and dawn dish soap (bake in oven at 200F for a couple of hours after)
You will learn quickly that brass prep is by far the most time consuming process of the reloading, imagine spinning 1000 pieces of brass (drill chuck) to trim to length..and then chamfer inner/outer. Invest in the most efficient brass process tool possible (it will save you time) I clean, deprime, resize, chamfer inner/outer about 5,000 bottle neck cartridge's per year.
Buy powder, primers, and bullet heads when you find them...every time.
My 3 most valuble tools of the bench
Lee Depriming Die (new)
Case and trim prep center (new)
RCBS manual powder drop. (used)
Ever other piece of reloading gear I have is bought used.
So many get into reloading and then drop off - those are the sales to find. Took me about 3 yrs to acquire all gear used.
You will learn quickly that brass prep is by far the most time consuming process of the reloading, imagine spinning 1000 pieces of brass (drill chuck) to trim to length..and then chamfer inner/outer. Invest in the most efficient brass process tool possible (it will save you time) I clean, deprime, resize, chamfer inner/outer about 5,000 bottle neck cartridge's per year.
Buy powder, primers, and bullet heads when you find them...every time.
My 3 most valuble tools of the bench
Lee Depriming Die (new)
Case and trim prep center (new)
RCBS manual powder drop. (used)
Ever other piece of reloading gear I have is bought used.
So many get into reloading and then drop off - those are the sales to find. Took me about 3 yrs to acquire all gear used.
Why not try a Lee Classic Loader? About $60 for the kit, requires only a mallet or piece of wood. Apparently is also capable of producing extremely high quality ammunition, having been used to win competitions several years ago.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wDZHx7zpYxE
How to use the Lee Loader, by Outdoor Life, from Jan 2023.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wDZHx7zpYxE
How to use the Lee Loader, by Outdoor Life, from Jan 2023.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
FYI - OP who asked the original question, has not logged onto this site since Oct 31 at 4:50 PM - so any posts, since then, have not been read by OP. My computer says today is Nov. 9.
True but others in the same boat will get some very good advice. We all started at one time. The advice I got to get a Lee Anniversary kit over a RCBS Rockchucker kit was bang on. "I can use that money for other things, like fishing gear."
To answer a couple of your questions: I trust opinions on here more than the makers and marketing of reloading equipment to steer me in the right direction. As for the volume, I would say 200 tops per month, and even then there will be months where it will likely be 0. I am looking to touch base with some local shooters regarding their reloading set up, but all suggestions are appreciated.
Thank you. I will definitely try this. I’m going to label different cases with the permanent marker. Like “H4895 59 grain”, “H4831 45 grain”. It definitely save my money and time. I was searching for an easy and quick powder measure and here it is!
BTW, your posts have always been informative and helpful.
