Help with barrel removal

[Tikka223]

So I’ve finally got the bits and pieces that I need to try removing the factory barrel from my Tikka T3 Varmint. I’ve watched a couple of YouTube videos out there for suggestions and thought I was good to go.

I put the barrel in my barrel vice and immediately ran into what I suspected would be a problem. I bought the barrel vice here on CGN. You can see from the pictures that the barrel channel isn’t really round. I used some drywall tape (YouTube video suggestion) and clamped my barrel into the vice. A combination of the barrel taper and the edges on the barrel channel resulted in a spinning barrel and some scuff marks on my barrel to boot. Any suggestions on how to get a better bite / more friction to keep the barrel from spinning?

Here are some pics of my setup if that helps.

 

[Tikka223]

I should add that I clamped the action wrench to the vertical sides of the action. I’m wondering if it would be smarter to remove the rail and clamp it to the top and bottom of the action.

 

[guntech]

I prefer clamping on the sides... just tight enough so the wrench stays in place with brass sheet to protect the action ... too tight clamps the action onto the threads so once it breaks loose I loosen the wrench a bit more...

Get a piece of 1.5 inch round stock, 2 inches long, bore it to fit the straight cylinder of the barrel, then cut it in half lengthwise. Wrap a piece of paper around where you are going to clamp the barrel, place the bushing you just made over that, put it in the vice and tighten it as hard as you can... install the action wrench and give it a hell of a whack with a 2 pound brass hammer...

 

[Tikka223]

While I’m at it I’ll also ask: is it possible to apply enough force using a ratchet to deform the action or the barrel while tightening the barrel vice or action wrench?

 

[Tikka223]

I prefer clamping on the sides... just tight enough so the wrench stays in place with brass sheet to protect the action ... too tight clamps the action onto the threads so once it breaks loose I loosen the wrench a bit more...

Get a piece of 1.5 inch round stock, 2 inches long, bore it to fit the straight cylinder of the barrel, then cut it in half lengthwise. Wrap a piece of paper around where you are going to clamp the barrel, place the bushing you just made over that, put it in the vice and tighten it as hard as you can... install the action wrench and give it a hell of a whack with a 2 pound brass hammer...

Exactly the type of advice I was looking for. Where does one get brass shims?

 

[guntech]

While I’m at it I’ll also ask: is it possible to apply enough force using a ratchet to deform the action or the barrel while tightening the barrel vice or action wrench?

The barrel will not deform permanently. It compresses and springs back.

Actions can be deformed.

Brass can be had at metal super markets, hobby stores... the stuff I use is 20 thou thick.

 

[Ruger007]

I have a similar vise. Tikkas for some reason I have ran into problems with. The sporters have a thin barrel and have a hard time clamping. Varmint should be a bit beefier.

Use some good penetrating lube in the action threads. I like kroil. Leave over night.

Wrap the spot that you are clamping with 2 layers of tape. No more. I have some sheet lead from old roof jobs that I place in the vise above and below the barrel. Sprinkle some rosin on the tape. Place between the lead sheets and tighten good and tight. Real tight.

One layer of tape on the action where you clamp. I use the top and bottom at the very front of the action. Wrench needs to be just snug not to tight. Otherwise is works like a stover nut. But don't want it to round the action edges either.

Make some marks with a sharpie to tell if it moved.

I use a 2lb hammer with a 6" handle. Hold some pressure on the wrench and give a good whack. As soon as it has moved make sure your wrench isn't too tight.

Tikkas for some reason are finicky. Rugers and Remingtons no problem.

 

[highlander]

Try using leather also.

Usually works unless it's real tight.

 

[tiriaq]

Powdered resin can reduce slipping.

 

[hunter5425]

If you don't have resin available powdered sugar (baking sugar) will add some grip as well.

 

[rifleman338]

I know that Casey at Tacord has a proper vice block that is machined to fit the Tikka action as we had the same issues with the action slipping.

 

[Hardhammer]

Maybe a piece of rubber around the barrel, once tight it hold.

 

[Potashminer]

I know that Casey at Tacord has a proper vice block that is machined to fit the Tikka action as we had the same issues with the action slipping.

I think OP was about the barrel slipping in that vice, not the action slipping?. Guntech's picture in Post 3 pretty much is correct thing to use to grab and hold a barrel without slip occurring. I notice various entities sell things that they call "barrel vices" - one such has a wooden block in the middle - they might work on "average" or lightweight stuff, but not going to get far with them on a tight barrel / receiver connection. As Guntech wrote - that insert within the vise has to fit snuggly to the barrel contour where you try to grab it - so I have turned 4 or maybe 5 here to fit various milsurp barrels that I have pulled from receivers. Also seems some difference in ideas about an "action wrench" - can have internal one that appears to lock to the bolt recess lugs, or an external one that fits tightly to the external shape and contour of the receiver. I do have an internal one made up by someone on CGN, and also have the Brownell's external ones, plus a "home made" one that I made to fit to P14 / M1917 receivers - that home made one uses a 48" cheater pipe on the handle, and the barrel vice with machined inserts does hold against that force.

 

[guntech]

All these leather and wooden and tape and lead shims will not grip a tight barrel.. a tight barrel will slip.. tight barrels require a machined bushing that fits the barrel and can be compressed in some short of a barrel vise... nothing does it better than the vise I pictured... bushing fits the vise and is machined to fit the barrel... lots of gripping force... a piece of paper between the barrel and bushing may prevent marking the barrel... I have also used powder rosin... sometime hard to remove after... lacquer thinner and 0000 steel wool does it.

 

[bearhunter]

All these leather and wooden and tape and lead shims will not grip a tight barrel.. a tight barrel will slip.. tight barrels require a machined bushing that fits the barrel and can be compressed in some short of a barrel vise... nothing does it better than the vise I pictured... bushing fits the vise and is machined to fit the barrel... lots of gripping force... a piece of paper between the barrel and bushing may prevent marking the barrel... I have also used powder rosin... sometime hard to remove after... lacquer thinner and 0000 steel wool does it.

This is as good as it gets

I no longer bother with anything but brass shim stock to protect the barrels. My vice is quite a bit heavier than those shown but I don't believe it makes any difference, other than I can use a bigger wrench to torque the clamp bolts, which are 1 inch NC.

I have at least a dozen different profile blocks made up. My blocks are square and cut in half, with clamping bolts on each side, so I can preload a bit before putting them into the clamp.

I do have a square block that has been slotted on one side and it accepts bushings, like the units in the photos.

One other thing about my system is that the contact area on the barrel is larger.

If the brass shim slips, all the damage done is a smear of easily removable brass. Brass compresses nicely to the contour of the barrel, if it doesn't have to sharp a taper.

Tikka barrels are tapered right up to the receiver, as are Remingtons and Winchesters. This means the barrels have to be clamped at a weaker point.

I've seen a few ''twisted'' barrels and a couple of buggered receivers from ham fisted take off techniques.

 

[tiriaq]

My barrel vise is much like guntech's. Steel bars with split bushings. Clamping is performed by a pair of 7/8" bolts. Bushings are machined form 1 1/2" diameter aluminum round stock, then split. Over the years I have made up a number of pairs. Heavy duty, pulled up hard. Lightweight, improvised will slip.

 

[pjs]

Use a johnson bar and get those barrel vice bolts tight. That little ratchet is not big enough for the task. Aluminum is quite sticky and I would be very surprised if it won't work for you if tightened down properly. I've never had a Tikka barrel that I thought was difficult to remove and I have done quite a few. Use rosin if you have it. It is easily removed afterwards with methyl hydrate and a rag. The action wrench you have is good for the job but make sure you tighten it down carefully so that the blocks remain parallel. I use a dial caliper when tightening but even a steel rule would be ok, just be sure they are parallel so as not to damage the receiver. I use aluminum between the receiver and the block but the cardboard you have should be fine. Any aluminum skid marks left on the barrel can be removed with a paste of lye and water.
Good luck.

 

[Tikka223]

Use a johnson bar and get those barrel vice bolts tight. That little ratchet is not big enough for the task. Aluminum is quite sticky and I would be very surprised if it won't work for you if tightened down properly. I've never had a Tikka barrel that I thought was difficult to remove and I have done quite a few. Use rosin if you have it. It is easily removed afterwards with methyl hydrate and a rag. The action wrench you have is good for the job but make sure you tighten it down carefully so that the blocks remain parallel. I use a dial caliper when tightening but even a steel rule would be ok, just be sure they are parallel so as not to damage the receiver. I use aluminum between the receiver and the block but the cardboard you have should be fine. Any aluminum skid marks left on the barrel can be removed with a paste of lye and water.
Good luck.

So you suggest clamping in the barrel as is (only tighter next time) and trying again?

 

[Tikka223]

I prefer clamping on the sides... just tight enough so the wrench stays in place with brass sheet to protect the action ... too tight clamps the action onto the threads so once it breaks loose I loosen the wrench a bit more...

Get a piece of 1.5 inch round stock, 2 inches long, bore it to fit the straight cylinder of the barrel, then cut it in half lengthwise. Wrap a piece of paper around where you are going to clamp the barrel, place the bushing you just made over that, put it in the vice and tighten it as hard as you can... install the action wrench and give it a hell of a whack with a 2 pound brass hammer...

What is round stock? I have a drill press but don’t really have anything else to cut metal. Your picture makes it look like you’ve got a metal sleeve to go over the barrel and clamp on to. I’ve seen some barrel vices that use wooden blocks. I was going to try clamping the barrel into an oak block but I don’t know if I could ever get the wood right enough to grip the barrel.

 

[Potashminer]

What is round stock? I have a drill press but don’t really have anything else to cut metal. Your picture makes it look like you’ve got a metal sleeve to go over the barrel and clamp on to. I’ve seen some barrel vices that use wooden blocks. I was going to try clamping the barrel into an oak block but I don’t know if I could ever get the wood right enough to grip the barrel.

I buy 1 1/2" round rods of aluminum from Amazon.ca - 12 inches long. That is "round stock" - a piece of rod already made to some outside diameter - they come in various metals - aluminum, brass, some versions of steel. I turn the inside to fit the barrel on my lathe - using boring tools, compound, tool holder, etc - I usually start with a 3/4" bit into the tail stock as a "start hole", then use 1/2" "boring bar". Oddly enough, even though is supposed to be a decent alloy of aluminum, it cuts easily on my compound miter saw with carbide 60 teeth saw blade. So, I turn the inside from a 1.5" "round stock" - what I turned is to match really close to the barrel contour - for some that was a taper which was really pushing what I can do on a lathe - then I chop it off at 1.5" long and split in half on that miter saw - install and use in my barrel vise clamp - often with a layer of computer printer paper and resin. No doubt I am abusing tools, and a real metal worker would likely frown on what I do, but it has worked so far.

I had read somewhere about a guy with the "oak wood block" vice and a tight barrel - he got so desperate that he used epoxy and glued that block to the barrel - that gave him enough grip to turn it - but then needed to demolish that wood to get it off the barrel, and needed a new wood block to install next barrel. Struck me as a "half ass" solution.