Help with my precision build and shooting skills...

Rem700WIN

Rem700WIN

Member
Rating - 100%
16   0   0
Location
Halifax, Nova Scotia
Hi everyone,

After some great help over the last few years, I am coming back for more.

I'm currently using a 700P cut down to 21", a nightforce 20moa rail, Millet Tactical rings and an SWFA 10x42 (as well as a limbsaver, Chinese Harris clone and generic cheek rest).

Currently shooting consistent 2moa groups at 100 yards in the prone, with roughly 3-4 out of 10 groups being 1moa or less.

What seems to be the issue is that the rifle itself jumps to left. I have played with body position and managed to cut down how often the rifle jumps to the left but it's still an issue and I can't tell why. In all honestly, I pretty much learnt to shoot prone from YouTube.

Is there a vet shooter in or near Halifax to help me work on my technique, or could someone suggest a shooting school/course near me? I honestly think just an hour of 1 on 1 or a day course would fix me.

I'm looking to upgrade;
- Chassis (something tactical like an MDT Tac 21 or ESS). Will I notice an improvement over my HS Precision?

- Bipod, but don't want to drop hundreds or dollars on one. What features do I really need in a bipod? I've seen $200 bipod that don't have an cant or pivot.

- Trigger but don't know what Timney (or other brand unit) to choose. Can I buy the cheapest one they have and expect to see improvements?

Also looking at muzzle brakes but think I have that figured out.

Thanks in advance and please feel free to make suggestions.
 
Pretty much everyone shooting for accuracy reloads, or you need to at least change to a higher quality factory ammo.
All of this comes down to what goal you want to achieve with it and what you're willing to invest in time and $ to get there. Everything has to come together, and it usually only takes 1 thing wrong to screw it all up.
We'll have a few Fullbore Target Rifle practices, TR, F-class, factory rifles are ok too, at the Bull Meadow range(NSRA, in Beaver bank) this year, calendar is on the nsrifle website. If you want to come out to one or 2 of them just contact me. We have some very experienced shooters who can help with position and such. Probably worth saying one of the main goals of these practices is to hopefully gain some new members who are interested to join and shoot TR & F-class competitions, though the club offers many other disciplines for those interested in becoming better shooters.
 
Last edited:
My 20" 700 in .308 had some serious muzzle flip until I added the PA M4-72 brake. Your bipod technique/loading can make a difference here but the muzzle brake all but eliminated the muzzle flip and apart from the concussion, it shoots about like a .223 now.

If you want to shoot for accuracy, you'll need to start reloading. Without access to factory match ammo in my area, reloading was the only option but even if I had access, I wouldn't want to pay the crazy prices.

Re: the rifle - everything is probably fine. Dial down your trigger weight to some safe but functional level; I believe the 700P models come with the older ribbed trigger or maybe even the 40X trigger (good reputation). The HS Precision stock has an aluminum bedding block and doesn't flex so no issues there.
 
If it were me, i would do the following - 1) get good ammo. You don't save anything if you keep shooting and shooting waiting for good groups if the ammo isn't up for it. (2) ditch the bipod for a good rest, or get a better bipod and learn to load it if needed (3) muzzle brake (4) bed action (replace trigger with a timney or trigger tech - with a light pull (5) reload.
Done!
 
Bed the action into the HS stock and make sure the barrel is free floated. The money you will save by not buying a chassis could be spent on some reloading gear ( a chassis will do nothing for you besides making you think you are a cool kid now). If you don't want to take the plunge into reloading at least buy better ammo. You may also want to look at getting a better front rest.
 
Consider a Jewell trigger and try to shoot off a good quality bag. You may be able to do the latter right at your club to see if thats the way you want to go before spending the $$$. Ditto on the reloading for consistent ammo. Ensure that you have good trigger technique. You should be pulling/squeezing straight back. If your groups seem to be off to the left periodically you could be pulling from left to right slightly thereby causing the POI to be somewhat left. Too much finger on the trigger could be doing that.
 
One to two minutes isn't bad with issue pattern ball.
The rifle jumping to the side under recoil suggests a position issue.
No harm in a skin coat of bedding. The HS stock has an aluminum bedding block. A chassis won't be an improvement in this area.
Try a box of factory match ammunition.
Let the rifle rest on the bipod "in neutral". It is just about impossible to apply the same preload, shot to shot.
Make contact with the Nova Scotia Rifle Association, see if you can get out to their practice shoots.
Factory barrels may or may not shoot really well. I would suggest that you not spend money to enhance the rifle until you know for a fact that your barrel is superior.
When your barrel properly crowned when it was shortened?
By all means, have a good brake installed. This will make the rifle more shootable.
 
Last edited:
Go see Gunsmith Sam Adams in Hilden. He'll be able to tell you what if anything your rifle needs. He's built rifles for armament technology, the military, and various police forces. He's also a Queens Medal shooter from the old days, so he can learn you a thing or two about shooting.
 
dero338- I just missed out on a Timney 510 in the EE a few days ago. I read they were good triggers but don't want to drop $200 for one at the moment. I will keep my eye out for another. And ya, I went by the sub MOA reviews choosing the .308 700P. I know it's me/ammo, not the rifle.

SND - Right now my main issue for ammunition is that I want to try and shoot as much as possible. Just this last week I shot 120 rounds of 2 trips to the range. I couldn't afford to do that with Match grade ammo (I get my Aguila for roughly 80-90cents a round and that's just bearable for the amount I want to shoot as it is). So I guess I need to learn how to reload ASAP (I have been keeping all of my casings for when I start to do this). I would love to come to Bull Meadows; I will definitely PM you. Thanks

thenerdboy - I'm looking into a brake at the moment. Thanks for the suggestion.

chrismc - I have a TAG backpack with rest that I will learn to use eventually but I would like to keep it to bipod for now. I am spending quite a lot of time looking for a new one at the moment.

r204 - I'm considering bedding the action, but I know I want to move to a chassis eventually (for a few reasons) and know that the HS Precision stock will sell for more if I don't modify it. However, I may get into re-loading anyway if it will save me in the long run. I just don't know much about it.

Eynhallow - I will be looking at triggers. Hoping to find something on the EE... I will look at my trigger control over the next few range sessions.

tiriaq - The positional issue was my guess. I tried moving the alignment of my body quite a bit, but I don't think I will get to the bottom of it without some knowledgable instruction in person. I will definitely contact Nova Scotia Rifle Association. I have been thinking about it for some time... The person who cut and crowned my barrel was recommended to me by some guys who seemed to have good results but I will have someone check it out. I have been thinking about a brake for awhile so if there is an issue with just the crown I'm sure it can be fixed when I get the barrel threaded etc for a brake.

Warden70 - Adams is the guy I am waiting to go see for my brake. I will ask him more when I go see him. There was a large wait list last time I checked as he was building a few rifles. I will call him again soon.

Thanks for all suggestions and advice so far guys! I think the main 2 things for me to do is go visit a club and get into reloading (any advice on how to do so would be great). I will pick up other pieces along the way.
 
I can shoot Nosler factory,155g under an inch,out of my $500 Savage.
Any other factory ammo I’ve tryed,isn’t so great.
I’m not saying Nosler is the best ammo for any gun, just mine.

All this with no bedding,expensive stock,expensive bipod,etc.

First you need to try a few different factory rnds,see what your rifle likes.
Then get a SS press, and start building your own.

I load Nosler ballistic tips for about 70 cents a piece.

Though they’re cheaper,you won’t save a lot of money,but you’ll be able to shoot more.

Though my factory savage can shoot sub MOA, I’ve still dropped it in a Cadex,and have a new barrel on the way:
Sometimes it’s not just about the accuracy.. For me anyways:)
 
For practicing at a low cost, nothing beats a .22lr with Standard Plus or similar match ammo.

No Brakes allowed for F-class, I don't see any use for it on a 308 personally other than it looks kinda cools. Also be careful that you don't end up leaving your rifle with someone to do work on it only to see it again many months later.

For reloading and other equipment Hirsch Precision is local, stocks lots of everything and great people.

Putting a good match barrel on a factory rifle makes more difference than anything like changing stock, a brake, a new trigger or bipod ever will. If you upgrade, first you put a match barrel, then get it properly bedded at the same time, and so on depending on $.
 
With respect to brakes...
I made up one of my .308 target rifles on a Remington action, walnut stock, with a Mike Rock M24 barrel, finished at about 28". Used for DCRA style precision competition.
Fairly heavy, very accurate. Recoil certainly manageable. After using it for a while, I installed a quality brake. Difference was night and day. "Shootability" of the rifle was dramatically improved, splash could be seen. Apart from a rulebook - like the one for F Class - I cannot see any reason not to put a brake on a rifle. My current precision rifle is also a Remington, in a MilCun pattern laminated stock, with a Krieger medium Palma barrel in .260. Brake on it, too, right from the get go. Rifle just about lies there, goes bang.
Most? many? rifles used for non-F Class matches are going to have brakes.
Last season, just for fun, I installed a Leupold 12X scope on my elderly Nielsen MN300 .308 TR. Hadn't shot if for years. Dug out some 155SMK loads put together maybe 20 years ago. From the bench, shot a 5/8" group @ 100m. Sure noticed the difference, not having a brake.
 
May I suggest practice with dry fire and observe the moment when you pull the trigger. Also, how heavy is the rifle?
 
The internet and shooting by yourself will only get you so far. At the start you don't know what you don't know and it is easy to go down the road of spending money for marginal returns or buying stuff that is not allowed or useful for the Long Range discipline you end up in.

If you wish to compete and train with skilled helpful long range shooters in NS with a 800m range, then the best bang for your buck is to hook up with the NSRA, either SND for Target Rifle/F - Class or me for Precision Rifle.

Check out the NSRA website, a wealth of information on the type of shooting we do. Have at least 2 other new shooters joining the Service Conditions Section this year that are on the same journey you are.
http://www.nsrifle.org/SCschd.htm
PM me if you are interested
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom