HELP with scope elevation problems on my Norc!

Scope mount

By fiddling with the relationship between the side mounting bolt and the stripper clip mount I was able to build some " positive elevation" into my Sadlac scope mount. The mount uses a cam washer between the bolt and the mount. Rotating the cam can raise or lower the front of the mount as it hinges on the rear mount. You want the mount to angle down to the front. I used a laser bore sighter to make sure the neutral adjusted scope was below the beam at 25. It did take a bit of tweaking, but the problem is fixable. I believe the Smith mounts have a similar feature.
 
Therein

trigger'06 said:
By fiddling with the relationship between the side mounting bolt and the stripper clip mount I was able to build some " positive elevation" into my Sadlac scope mount. The mount uses a cam washer between the bolt and the mount. Rotating the cam can raise or lower the front of the mount as it hinges on the rear mount. You want the mount to angle down to the front. I used a laser bore sighter to make sure the neutral adjusted scope was below the beam at 25. It did take a bit of tweaking, but the problem is fixable. I believe the Smith mounts have a similar feature.
Click to expand...

Therein lies the solution -

Adjust the mount first - theres always a little slop to play with.
If none - start grinding or throw the mount away and get a good one.
Sadlak is the best - proven by the design features as shown on his website.
Once you read whats there no one can argue others are better.
ARMS etc. are good , but Sadlak is the best.
 
good and bad

skoalbandit said:
Anyone use the Springfield Armory mount yet? Good or bad?
Click to expand...

Its fussy but it works - no front receiver support , lottsa torque needed on the knobs to keep them from loosening - danger of breaking the knob shafts.
The iron sight tunnel often is to far to one side on norcs. No real mount adjustability like the Sadlak.
 
So.

I tried switching to lower rings, as I had some good ones on hand and it was the fastest possible fix and didn't require another trip to the store. As others suggested, and I suspected, it did not actually work...

I looked at shimmed rings, as some suggested, but careful examination of my mount's relationship to my barrel showed the mount obviously pointing upwards - more than the 20 thou shims available could compensate for in my mind.

I decided to just take the mount off the rifle, fill in the hole in the mount where the front locking screw goes (with JB weld), then re-drill a new hole. After letting the JB weld harden for a full two days, I reinstalled the mount using only the rear screw, set the mount's agle properly (just the tiniest bit below level actually, as some reccomended), marked and re-drilled my hole. The new hole was noticeably higher than the old one, my caliper read it as .070 higher (center to center) than the factory hole. True level would have been .060, but I added that little bit to give me more elevation for longer range shooting.

I reinstalled everything (with my good friend, red loctite) and it looks visibly better now. I'm hoping to hit the range soon and see how it works, but I'm pretty confident the problem will be solved.
 
I (finally) got to the range after my last couple of attemps were impeded by bad weather and Ranger shoots at the range.

I managed to get the rifle sighted in quite quickly and my modified mount seems to hold it's zero perfectly. I've still got lots of elevation adjustment in my scope after sighting it in; more than I could see myself using actually.

So, it seems, problem solved. Thanks for all the help fellows!
 
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