Help With Wooden Stock Care Please

98/29

98/29

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
15   0   0
Hello everyone,

I was wondering if someone with a little bit more experience regarding care and finishing of wooden stock could give me a few pointers.

I have a Persian Mauser with a very light colored stock, seems like birch to me but I cannot be sure. My question is what product should I use to protect the wood and not darken the color? Most people suggest Tru-Oil but I thought maybe someone here would have another idea.

2e369on.jpg
 
Raw linseed oil was used and the stocks were hot dipped and allowed to soak for a given time. No BLO or True Oil was used as it does not penetrate as deeply and has too much gloss.
 
bigedp51 said:
Raw linseed oil was used and the stocks were hot dipped and allowed to soak for a given time. No BLO or True Oil was used as it does not penetrate as deeply and has too much gloss.
Click to expand...

So I can't just rub it on it? I'll have to disassemble and soak it?
 
98/29 said:
So I can't just rub it on it? I'll have to disassemble and soak it?
Click to expand...

The stock was soaked in a tank of raw linseed oil when it was made, you do not need to dissemble the rifle and can just rub linseed oil on the exposed wood.

"BUT" I can't leave a new rifle alone and wonder if any rust is hiding under the wood, so the rifle get torn down completely, cleaned and re-oiled inside and out.

The raw linseed oil was the military finish, if you want more surface protection then you could use a satin wiping varnish and use 0000 steel wool to break any shine and it would look original with just one or two coats. On my "shooter" non-collectible milsurps I apply raw linseed oil until the wood will not take any more and let it dry for a week and then I apply two coats of Minwax Tung Oil finish which is nothing more than a wiping varnish that contains "NO" Tung oil.

Oil Finishes: Their History and use

"Finishing is a mystery largely because of the confusion created by manufacturers in their labeling, and there’s no better example of this than the mislabeling of various “oil” finishes."

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/finishing/oil-finishes-their-history-and-use
 
A wipe down of raw linseed oil probably wouldn't hurt but the proper storage conditions goes a long way as well. Proper humidity is important. I've seen stocks that have sat in basements for years with mold on them.
 
bigedp51 said:
The stock was soaked in a tank of raw linseed oil when it was made, you do not need to dissemble the rifle and can just rub linseed oil on the exposed wood.

"BUT" I can't leave a new rifle alone and wonder if any rust is hiding under the wood, so the rifle get torn down completely, cleaned and re-oiled inside and out.

The raw linseed oil was the military finish, if you want more surface protection then you could use a satin wiping varnish and use 0000 steel wool to break any shine and it would look original with just one or two coats. On my "shooter" non-collectible milsurps I apply raw linseed oil until the wood will not take any more and let it dry for a week and then I apply two coats of Minwax Tung Oil finish which is nothing more than a wiping varnish that contains "NO" Tung oil.
Click to expand...

So in order to not get a glossy finish I should just use steel wool on the last coat?

Is the procedure described here good to go with:

http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/article/how-to-apply-wiping-varnish.aspx

???
 
jbmauser said:
A wipe down of raw linseed oil probably wouldn't hurt but the proper storage conditions goes a long way as well. Proper humidity is important. I've seen stocks that have sat in basements for years with mold on them.
Click to expand...

I have this one hanging on the wall, no direct sunlight. As far as humidity goes I've never tried measuring my home humidity but it's not like a basement or anything.
 
A rub down with raw or boiled linseed oil will not give you a high gloss finish, but it will help protect and freshen the stock a bit. Old fashioned oils like this are much more like a maintenance procedure than a "set and forget" kind of thing. Expect to have to oil the stock again some day. The more the merrier, in fact.

If you find it too glossy for your tastes you CAN rub down with steel wool. Personally, I prefer using a scotchbrite pad. Steel wool turns into a thousand tiny metal fragments in the finish. Ugh.
 
98/29 said:
So in order to not get a glossy finish I should just use steel wool on the last coat?

Is the procedure described here good to go with:

http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/article/how-to-apply-wiping-varnish.aspx

???
Click to expand...

On a new unfinished thumb hole stock for a 10/22 I finished just as the the link above describes, BUT this has more shine than a military stock, and the wet sanding and repeated coats fills in the wood grain making a smooth surface. If you want the original military look then do not sand the stock, just apply the raw linseed oil to feed the wood and one or two coats of wiping varnish to add a tough top coat that is more water resistant and less likely to get dirt embedded in the raw linseed oil finish.

If you are not a collector and want the stock to look better you can steam and sand the stock to remove dents and dings in the wood and finish with any type finish you like.

Below is what the American CMP (Civilian Marksmanship Program) has linked at their website for refinishing your M1 Garand stock. This would be "shooter grade" M1 rifles and not done to collector grade rifles. Below they use linseed oil and Tung oil and the mixture they sell is non-toxic and be applied bare handed. Any other modern finish I would wear rubber gloves, wiping varnish, poly, etc.

Cleaning your M1 Garand Stock
http://www.garandgear.com/cleaning-your-m1-garand-stock

Stripping your M1 Garand Stock
http://www.garandgear.com/stripping-your-m1-garand-stock

Refinishing your M1 Garand
http://www.garandgear.com/new-finish-for-your-m1-garand
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom