Here she is: 700 XCR Compacticle

The "infinity" sighn visible at the top of the knob indicates the parallax setting that will bring the reticle into the optical infinity plane. The "inclined plane" sort of shallow triangle is where you would turn the knob for closer-than-infinity settings.

I would not bet that the parallax knob is properly calibrated. If you remove the Allen (Torx?) screw holding the knob on, it should come straight off. It will hopefully register via a finely splined shaft. You can orient the knob (within one spline's worth) however you want.

So, if you can bench your rifle, and point it at something at least 500m away (a tree on the horizon works well), you can zero out the parallax for infinity. Then remove the knob, and reinstall it so that it reads "infinity" at this setting.

Even if you are able to turn the knob past the "infinity" setting, this will never be useful (try it; you'll see that the crosshair is effectively "behind" the target, even a target at 1000 yards - i.e. if you move your eye up, the crosshair will appear to move up relative to the target). One other interesting thing about focusing a scope "beyond infinity" is that the direction of the mirage will reverse.... try this too!

Anyhow, with "infinity" properly set, the next most significant setting to determine is 100 yards. Figure out where that is on the knob, and mark it if you wish.
This is all well and good but there is no mark on the scope body to use as a reference. Orienting the parallax knob is effectively useless. I guess I could put one in but I don't really see the point.

What I was doing when I was at the range was trying to focus the thing the best I could using the parallax and then move my eye a bit to determine if the reticle was moving in relation to the target. I dunno if there are any other tricks to it but I'm anxious to know if there are.
 
What I was doing when I was at the range was trying to focus the thing the best I could using the parallax and then move my eye a bit to determine if the reticle was moving in relation to the target. I dunno if there are any other tricks to it but I'm anxious to know if there are.

Once the focus is correctly set, then using the parallax knob to bring the target into focus, will result in everything being correct:

1 - crosshair in shap clear stress-free focus
2 - target in same focus as crosshair
3 - crosshair and target in same plane (shift eye, there should be no crosshair:target relative movement)
 
I may be wrong but I believe setting the focus on a reticule is much like setting a diopter on a camera. You ignore your subject matter and only focus on the reticule itself when turning the focus piece. When the reticule looks crisp for your eye (as everyone is different) then you lock your focus. This is how you set a diopter in a SLR camera, but I am not sure it's correct for a rifle scope. After the reticule focus is correct, the parallax should adjust properly for any specific range much like manual focus lens in a camera does for a certain distance.
But as I stated I am not 100% sure a diopter method of adjustment for a camera will work for a rifle scope?
 
I may be wrong but I believe setting the focus on a reticule is much like setting a diopter on a camera. You ignore your subject matter and only focus on the reticule itself when turning the focus piece. When the reticule looks crisp for your eye (as everyone is different) then you lock your focus. This is how you set a diopter in a SLR camera, but I am not sure it's correct for a rifle scope. After the reticule focus is correct, the parallax should adjust properly for any specific range much like manual focus lens in a camera does for a certain distance.
But as I stated I am not 100% sure a diopter method of adjustment for a camera will work for a rifle scope?

That is my understanding as well.
 
Well I adjusted the reticle focus and things through the scope already look much better! Gonna have to do up those loads again and retry em all (especially since I now have fire formed brass ;))
 
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