Herman the German

i think you should take out all the shading and just have it white. Just the dark thick outlines and minor details. Make it dark inside the scoring area.
 
Here are some changes based on your feedback:

Targettorsov04highcontrast.jpg
 
Wait a minute, Herman is copyrighted? Any info on this swirled out version then?

Targets.jpg


I cleaned it up and have been shooting 1/4 scale targets printed on computer paper for a while now ...
 
Although you would likely be in violation of some copyright law the same as if you used a torrent to download a "Jefferson Airplane" album, it is so minor that no one would be interested in pursuing you for it, also you aren't making money from it.

on the other hand if "We" as a company were to take a IPSC target, Herman, or a PPC target and produced it without permission we would be in violation of their copyright and would likely be sued and/or worse; rightfully so.
 
I really like it but for longer distances I would prefer if his face and hands were pretty much white and the rest dark grey and black. At longer distances with iron sights it will be hard to find a solid point of aim.
 
It's still pretty grey. Great for pistol shooting or 100m rifle shooting but I think it needs to be a bit more abstract/high contrast for longer distances. I think shooters are going to want targets with very distinct aiming points.

Maybe keep the outline and shade it in like the Fig. 11
 
Absolutely the shading has to go. The image is great, but, it needs to be a black/white contrasting image. If you want to use shading outside the scoring zone, that'd be fine, but, while it's a pretty image, it's not functional for competition/practice. You NEED to be able to see aiming points out to 500 yds with ~6X magnification.

I like that it presents a more up to date alternative to Herman, just so long as the scoring rings are the exact same size, and there's clear contrast. You should be able to use black/tan patches on it, without throwing everything off... So, colour it in black/tan, and it'll be great...
 
Absolutely the shading has to go. The image is great, but, it needs to be a black/white contrasting image. If you want to use shading outside the scoring zone, that'd be fine, but, while it's a pretty image, it's not functional for competition/practice. You NEED to be able to see aiming points out to 500 yds with ~6X magnification.


This. There's no real point doing a Herman imitation if it doesn't imitate Herman's long-range visibility. To do that it needs contrast.
 
The image is still a relatively non-descript blob of a single colour. Keep the nice line work (I really like it) but add some more high contrast areas to the dude and keep the scoring rectangles as line and not a shaded area.

This is my take:

loledit.jpg


Notice how the finger makes a nice distinct aiming point in the middle of the centre scoring ring? It's kind of like aiming at the wrist on a figure 11.
 
This. There's no real point doing a Herman imitation if it doesn't imitate Herman's long-range visibility. To do that it needs contrast.

+1....what is so great about the design of the original herman is that the contrast they built into the image was done in such a way as to have two distinct aiming points that are visible at long range. The aiming points are what's important. In the below example, notice how at even long distance you can make out white areas that are strategically located in the center of the scoring zone (remember that the face of the storming norman is also a scoring zone in the figure 12). For comparison I've also included a sample of the design of my "herman" type target I'm currently making from cardboard, using design principles I'll describe in a sec.

soldier_concept.jpg


I love to make my own targetry, and the feature described above, while conceptually simple, for me anyway has been difficult to incorporate as I'm not the most skilled illustrator. As such, most of my older targets have wound up being a simple silhouette with no distinct aiming points and consequently they are not as good as herman. Recently though I've been making a stronger effort and have landed on a principle or two that seems to make it easier.

1. The image can be printed only with black ink against either a white or cardboard background

2. There can be no shades of grey...the image must be polarized.

3. Approximately 2/3 to 3/4 of the image must be black, the remaining white. This seem to make the white areas stand out more.

To illustrate the concept, here are some examples from what I have been working on. You will notice that the concepts have been implemented with varying success.

targetry_concept.jpg


target_bear_testdrive.jpg


Good luck! I can hardly wait to see what you come up with....

Cheers,

Brobee
 
As they are for my own personal use, I contract out fabrication of both my paper and cardboard targets locally here in Calgary.
 
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Something that just occurred to me is that Classic Herman(tm) is not a drawing of a charging man; it's a high-contrast pattern, visible at long ranges, that's been cleverly tweaked to look like a charging man.

In other words, the original illustrator probably started with a pattern that was visible at range, I.e. two super-posed white blobs on black background (the face and center hand) over side by side black and white patches (the legs) and morphed them into humanoid shape and added facial features and the rifle.

At longer ranges, you can't see the details, but the face, hand, and forward thigh against the dark humanoid shape are what give the aiming cues. Once you get out to 500 (the farthest out I've ever shot a Herman), you're just aiming at the overall dark shape.

I'm not an illustrator, but maybe starting with the contrast features and morphing might be the way to go; think impressionistic high contrast outline rather than a drawing...
 
Something that just occurred to me is that Classic Herman(tm) is not a drawing of a charging man; it's a high-contrast pattern, visible at long ranges, that's been cleverly tweaked to look like a charging man.

I think you might be right. The scramble-pattern version seen earlier in this thread is someone's take on making the same high-contrast target, without making it look too human-like.

When you look at the needs of a target, it has to be visible, first-off. And if you want to have a scoring area, you need a contrasting visual reference seen from as far away as your aiming device (Fig 11 and 12 were designed for iron sights, up to hundreds of yards). The wrist on the charging figure, and the face on the head-figure.

This is less about artwork, and more about a contrasting target first, and "what" the target represents, second.

Canada Targets is getting pretty close to a good, usable target, and the recent poster with his own (frikken scary looking bear!!!), are coming along nicely towards good, long-range targets that won't offend anyone except those who would be offended anyway. I'm liking this thread.
 
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