Have you chronographed your load. My ballistics calculator shows your bullet would have to be traveling 3100 fps to be 5 inches low at 300. At 2800 fps it shows it hitting 11 inches low at 300.
Hey Mr Nikon
- Thread starter Fassteel
- Start date
Have you chronographed your load. My ballistics calculator shows your bullet would have to be traveling 3100 fps to be 5 inches low at 300. At 2800 fps it shows it hitting 11 inches low at 300.
The thought of the magic scope where you use your range finder, dial the turret, point, and shoot is wonderful. We all look at the adds and salivate at having such wonderful thing. Fact is that these products only work well in the hands of those who put in the practice and aquire the knowledge to actually shoot without them. ( Kind of ironic) IMHO a hunting rifle should be set at your prefered zero be it 100, 200 or 300 yards then leave the scope alone. This followed by practicing at all ranges will tell you how your gun shoots. After this you will know where to aim rather than having to rely on your scope to do it for you.
For example if my gun is 12" low at 300 yards I"ll know where to hold on the animal I am shooting at because I've taken the time to learn about how big or small my target is. This method has served hunters well for more than a few years and I think it still works even though the techno pushers try to tell us different.
For example if my gun is 12" low at 300 yards I"ll know where to hold on the animal I am shooting at because I've taken the time to learn about how big or small my target is. This method has served hunters well for more than a few years and I think it still works even though the techno pushers try to tell us different.
The Kentucky windage factor gets a bit greater and less accurate the further away you get. At 500 yards I'll take the magic scope every time!
My point was that in order to use the magic scope you'd better have a little experience with Kentucky windage. The biggest issue is those who think the magic scope will turn them into long range shooters overnight.
These scopes will enhance the abilities of a practiced shooter but will not turn a bad shooter into a marksman no more than the finest technologically advance hockey equipment can turn me into an NHL'r.
These scopes will enhance the abilities of a practiced shooter but will not turn a bad shooter into a marksman no more than the finest technologically advance hockey equipment can turn me into an NHL'r.
I'd say it's likely better if you don't.....
As for practice absolutely but as for experience guessing how far you are holding over an animal...I don't see the benefit.
I have a couple Leupolds with the CDS turrets, and I find they track and work well. In fact, I did use my rangefinding binos this year to range a couple moose at 450 yds. With no way to get closer without spooking them, I dialed the turret to 450yds, held right on the boiler, and put 2 rounds into the big cow's chest.
Not an extreme range, but it worked perfect for me, and I was shooting prone with a good rest and no wind.
Rifle is a 338wm and the scope is a VXR with the fire dot. It takes most of the guess work out, but if you don't have a rangefinder, they are useless.
Fassteel, sorry for the hijack...
I do. Not saying to practice on game but learning the trajectory of your firearm and practicing hold over does make you a better shooter. Maybe it is not a fair comparison but I practice instinctive shooting ( no sights) with a recurve and I have found that when I switch to my compound with sights it has a real positive effect.
I have a suspicion you probably did a little Kentucky style shooting in your day as well.
But as you said once you get over 500 yards ( or even less ) hold over does go out the window and the technology kicks in. I just hate it when I run into a shooter I know can't hit an ice cream pail at 100 yards talk about shooting deer at 500 yards with their new scope.
Old school skills combined with new school gear can make those long shots a lot more predictable.
I have a suspicion you probably did a little Kentucky style shooting in your day as well.
But as you said once you get over 500 yards ( or even less ) hold over does go out the window and the technology kicks in. I just hate it when I run into a shooter I know can't hit an ice cream pail at 100 yards talk about shooting deer at 500 yards with their new scope.
Old school skills combined with new school gear can make those long shots a lot more predictable.
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Absolutely I did but I honestly don't see how that benefits anything I do with a ballistic reticle or turret scope. All the practicing I did holding the crosshairs exactly where I wanted to hit...now that was very beneficial.
I guess we'll have to leave it at that as you just can't measure anything to prove or disprove. For sure using a scope that can be adjusted for drop and drift then just put the cross hairs on your target takes out a great deal margin for error but I bet there is a place in the back of your brain that is feeling that good old hold over and knowing you've got it right.
However, I'll still have a good time at the range with my .22 figuring out the hold over and drift on that tin can . As for game these days my range finder is always with me
However, I'll still have a good time at the range with my .22 figuring out the hold over and drift on that tin can . As for game these days my range finder is always with me
Nikon Travis M.
Regular
- Location
- Alberta, Canada
Fired you a PM, take a look and see if it jives.
One thing I have experienced in the past is that of making an adjustment and not seeing the result on paper until the second shot. Reticle was stuck and the recoil of the first shot bumped it to it's new setting. I have seen this on multiple different scopes and multiple brands, most of them good quality, mid to upper price point. Did a little work and research and discovered the biggest culprit of this is over tightening of the scope rings screws. Many guys come on to the screws and tighten them until they can't be tightened any more, I have found that with quality rings that are machined to the proper size, torque setting requirements are surprisingly lower than what most guys think. Somewhere from 15-20 INCH lbs is all that is required.
I am not saying this is the solution with the original posters issues, just saying I would look at all factors that I have bearing on before blaming the optic. I think far too many scopes go back for warranty when the real issue is operator error.
I am not saying this is the solution with the original posters issues, just saying I would look at all factors that I have bearing on before blaming the optic. I think far too many scopes go back for warranty when the real issue is operator error.
