Hi-Point .45, Beauty & the Beast?

My Suggestion: Lose the Philips Screws ASAP (screams cheap). Try and find an allen key or hex key replacement grip screw.
 
guess_kto said:
Hi-Point is the ugliest gun ever in my opinion... it's also heavy and looks really cheap...

hey-ugly-stationery.jpg
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While I agree that it's no beauty queen, it isn't THAT bad after some minor modding. I did mention the $216.00, right? Tax in & shipped? :p

BTW, in case some of you think that I may be partial to this gun simply because I can't afford anything nicer, I own the following;

Springfield 1911 .45
Para .40 LDA Limited
Walther P-99 in .40
S&W M&P in .40
HK USP in .45
S&W 469 in 9mm
Ruger MK II .22
Baby Browning in .25
Basque in .380
S&W Model 19 (4")
S&W Model 66 (2.5")
S&W Model 686 (4")
S&W Model 36 (2.5")

So much for that theory, huh? To date, the pistol that I've had the most fun "fiddling" with is the Hi-Point. Any moron (or intelligent person) can buy off the shelf. But customizing something yourself? Makes me feel all warm'n fuzzy inside.

Damn, now I need a hug.....:bigHug:
 
Your mods have made it look a-lot better, I really like the magazine mod; when I saw the pistol first time I wondered what was up with the hideous magazines.

Good job :)
 
peter2772000 said:
While I agree that it's no beauty queen, it isn't THAT bad after some minor modding. I did mention the $216.00, right? Tax in & shipped? :p

BTW, in case some of you think that I may be partial to this gun simply because I can't afford anything nicer, I own the following;

Springfield 1911 .45
Para .40 LDA Limited
Walther P-99 in .40
S&W M&P in .40
HK USP in .45
S&W 469 in 9mm
Ruger MK II .22
Baby Browning in .25
Basque in .380
S&W Model 19 (4")
S&W Model 66 (2.5")
S&W Model 686 (4")
S&W Model 36 (2.5")

So much for that theory, huh? To date, the pistol that I've had the most fun "fiddling" with is the Hi-Point. Any moron (or intelligent person) can buy off the shelf. But customizing something yourself? Makes me feel all warm'n fuzzy inside.

Damn, now I need a hug.....:bigHug:
Click to expand...

I still ugly. I know it's cheap and I noticed them long time ago in US... It may even shoot way, but design..... yak! Just not my type! :adult:
 
peter2772000 said:
It wasn't too hard. I got a piece of glass which I usually use for lapping/polishing flat metal pieces. I laid a sheet of 180 grit over the glass, allowing the front and back ends to get tucked underneath the glass so as to hold it in place. I then placed the slide on top of the sandpaper and pushed the raised ridge of slide forwards/backwards on the paper 'till the paint was all gone. That paint clings on for dear life, I might add.
I did the same thing with 400 grit and that was it. By using no finer than 400 grit, the slide finish has the same grain as a stainless slide.

One thing which I did wrong. I sprayed the slide with a satin clear high-temp paint in order to prevent the now-exposed bare steel from rusting. The high temp paint directions specify a curing time of 15-30 minutes @ 600*F for optimum adherence. I had it in the oven for about 20 minutes before taking it out. The paint had yellowed a bit, but the main issue was a slight bulging of the slide finish in 3 or 4 different areas. And only on the OEM painted surfaces, nowhere on the sanded or exposed steel. Almost as if the metal had slightly blistered or something. Strangest thing...
Click to expand...

Thanks, I might try that one day. It definitely makes it look better. What about doing the whole slide? what do you think about that?
 
Alright, this is the last of the pics. Just finished with the last few mods.


Trigger pull & creep. OEM was at around 9-10lbs and lotsa creep. Changing the sear spring and polishing the sear cam and trigger bar didn't do much to improve the creep or pull (which went sown to around 8 lbs).

I installed an Allen screw above the sear cam to put the cam in a position which is easier for the trigger bar to actuate it. Which means less trigger pull. As well, this mod lowers the sear a bit into the frame. Which means less creep.
Trigger pull is now at 6lbs, measured with my new trigger pull scale.

DSC01742.jpg



Due to there not being a whole lot of material for the Allen screw to hold onto, I made a notch into the grip so as to provide support to this Allen screw (which I also Locktite'd)

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Chucked the OEM spring pin in favour of yet another Allen screw. Tapped both the frame as well as the slide retainer. No more drift punches and hammer for disassembly.

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Polished barrel and chamber "seems" to make racking back the slide a more pleasurable and easier act. Polished the feed ramp while I was in there....

DSC01748.jpg



And finally, painted the front sight red to match the rear. Also repainted the safety lever dot and hi-lighted the Hi-Point logo on the bottom of the grips. Oh, and I took the advice of the member who posted that I should replace the Phillips-head screws. Great idea and thanx!

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Well, that's it. I'm done. Time to move on. It sure was fun though. Hope it still shoots reliably :p
 
Pretty cool that these are now available to us and hey if she don't shoot reliably at least it is not a $1000 gun you've monkeyed with!!
 
WOW, looks pretty differant from the original. Hope you have the time to post a range report. Wonder when Kodiak will get more of the .45's in. I'm intrested.
 
Uhhh, yeah. The range report :redface:

Without meaning to incriminate myself, suffice it to say that the small Allen screw above the sear cam wasn't...uhhh...how can I put this ..... it was not necessarily "automatic"ally conducive to proper operation. That screw is now gone from there, forever.:p
Otherwise, she shoots great. Back to the drawing board for reducing the heavy trigger creep :redface:
 
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