high velocity low recoil caliber?

why are the '7x57 or 6.5x57' more handloadable then the .270 or .308, as commented by SuperCub? I plan on reloading...cheaper to shoot that way when you've not got a lot of money.

I've about $1000 to buy two rifles. a .22 to start practicing on with and then something a bit more hefty to get fluent with for beginner hunting. it would be nice to be able to include a shotgun in that budget for the fall goose season, but I'm not sure how realistic that is.

The 7X57 or 6.5X55 (I'll assume this is what was meant, as the 6.5X57 is far less common) are not "more handloadable" than the .308 or .270. They simply require handloading to achieve the full potential of the chambering, due to neutered factory loads that are safe in old rifles of questionable strength and condition. Handloads in these chamberings allow the full potential of the chambering to be seen, provided a rifle of sufficient strength to contain the pressures they generate when loaded hot.

The .308 and .270 do not suffer this same fate, thus the gains in handloading are smaller, at least in terms of absolute velocity attainable.

If you spend your money wisely, a serviceable, if not fancy .22, a solid centerfire rifle and optics, plus a serviceable shotgun should be attainable on your budget.They may not be the prettiest or flashiest, but they will work just fine.

As to the recoil question, it sounds like you would be best to limit yourself to chamberings that generate moderate recoil, in order to avoid causing yourself discomfort. If you better defined your velocity expectations, you would get better answers. For the most part, high velocity chamberings capable of handling moose hunting tend to have moderate to heavy recoil. If you require light recoil, then your expectations of high velocity may not be possible without dropping to a very small bore diameter and bullet weight. Moderate recoil and moderate velocity (ie 7mm-08 is likely a much better choice, especially for a new hunter).

If the .338 Federal "kicks like a mule" to you, then I would say that at this time, your level of recoil tolerance is quite low. You will need to fire many rounds of lighter recoiling chamberings/loads and gradually increase to a higher level. For reference, a .338 Federal is approximately the same level of recoil as a .30-06, depending upon the exact loads chosen.
 
the .338 kicked a whole lot more then the .308, but there was a difference between the weight of the bullets. 150g vs. 200g. I think it was a 338 Federal...it might have been a 338 Mag of some sort.

that's interesting about those European caliber's...what are some make/model's available in them?
 
why are the '7x57 or 6.5x57' more handloadable then the .270 or .308, as commented by SuperCub? I plan on reloading...cheaper to shoot that way when you've not got a lot of money.
All the mentioned calibers are handloadable, but there are many older calibers that are very mild in factory form that are improved greatly by heavier handloads. The manufacturers do this as their ammo may be fired in old/weaker rifles.

If you are going to be using factory ammo, you'd be better off going with a common modern caliber, like 270, 30/06, 308.

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I would suggest a 6.5x55 Swedish. You can still get it in a Tikka rifle, and it's plenty fast and powerful enough for moose. The rifle is light, so it will have a bit more kick, but the bullets are light enough as well to balance it out. Install a good aftermarket pad, and use a bag of lead shot between you and the rifle at the range and your set. The rifle is less than $600 giving you money for a good scope and a starter .22 off the EE. Happy hunting. :wave:
 
the .338 kicked a whole lot more then the .308, but there was a difference between the weight of the bullets. 150g vs. 200g. I think it was a 338 Federal...it might have been a 338 Mag of some sort.

that's interesting about those European caliber's...what are some make/model's available in them?

easiest way to tell- the 338 win mag is .5 inches longer and a size bigger than the 308- so if it looked like a fat '06 , chances are it was a 338 win mag- the 338 federal as far as i know is just the 308 necked up to use 338 slugs- and ,when you load the 200 grain slugs in the 308, it ,too, "kicks like a mule" even with a heavy barrel and full stock
 
I didn't want to suggest 6.5x55 Swede for moose 'cuz I know all that magnum-loving mafia will gang up on me. Anyways, 6.5x55 in semiautomatic rifle like Ljungman for example does not have recoil. None. Or any semi-auto for that matter will always have less notable recoil than its bolt brother of the same chambering. Like M14s if you can find one in reasonable shape within your budget.

If you plan on handloading then you can even go with 30-06 or 303 british. You can load them with appropriate bullets on top of moderate charge. I heard from people who always had only one rifle that they just load it such and such for deer and totally different for moose. Even if you are recoil sensitive you can always suck it up for just one shot in a season. Buy Lee Enfield for 100$ and scope it and you will have anough money to buy a reloading stuff and components for a few years ahead.
 
Even if you are recoil sensitive you can always suck it up for just one shot in a season

So how do you practice,sight the gun in,and check the point of impact at various ranges,if you are only going to fire one shot per season with that gun and that load?
 
I have a P17 lined up for $100...so it's a heavy 30.06.

I was just thinking it would be better to break my shoulder in with a lighter but very capable cartridge rather then take it on a crash education, LOL!
 
or you can practise with LIGHTER bullets to begin with- say 125 grain IF YOU CAN FIND THEM- then get progressively heavier- 150, then 165, and 180-or add the past system on your shoulder and a recoil pad on the gun- and start with 150's- the p17 is a big heavy brute of a gun and handles recoil well
 
oh yeh, I should mention that the 338 was definitely a magnum. much bigger then the .308 cartridges.

I forgot about the recoil pads. what are some that you would recommend looking at?
 
I've about $1000 to buy two rifles. a .22 to start practicing on with and then something a bit more hefty to get fluent with for beginner hunting. it would be nice to be able to include a shotgun in that budget for the fall goose season, but I'm not sure how realistic that is.

I have a Rem 700, BDL, 30-06 as new with a 3x9 Leupold scope, talley mounts, for $900 obo
 
remember, your recoil pad is going to increase the length of your stock and mount your cheek further back unless you have it cut and mounted properly- i use a slip-on for 2 reasons- 1 it protects the stock from dings, and 2provides the recoil reduction-the only way you're going to find out is to FIRE THE GUN WITH THE LOADS YOU WANT TO USE- there's no forumulae for how your body reacts to recoil- then if it kicks too much for your liking, either wear a past recoil shield or get a pad or both- when i was using an m14 with 20 round mags - 180 grain bullets, i used only the recoil sheld with the folding stock, because the stock was metal and had very little "give"to it- the regular stocked m14 was fine, and when you dropped to the "standard" 150 grain, you could shoot all day- 180's would give you a sore shoulder out of the folder in VERY short order- even your body shape matters- a short heavy set fellow "feels" it far less than a tall, narrow chap
 
I have a P17 lined up for $100...so it's a heavy 30.06.

I was just thinking it would be better to break my shoulder in with a lighter but very capable cartridge rather then take it on a crash education, LOL!

If it is still full wood, and not sporterized then you may find it heavy enough to make it low recoil in that cartridge. I know my .303 P-14 is a pussy cat to shoot even though some idiot sporterized it.
 
I have a sportered m1917( probaly done in the 60's) its heavy enough there is less felt recoil than my savage 99 308. damn thing must weigh 9 pounds.
 
The easiest way to tell the 338win mag from the 338 federal is that the win mag has a belt.

If it has a belt,you can be 100% sure that it is not a 338 Federal.If it has no belt,you can be 100% positive that it isn't a 338win mag.


Thats like saying the way to tell the difference between Arnold Schwarzeneggar and Danny De Vito is to look for a bald guy

Are you saying that if Arnold Schwarzeneggar and Danny De Vito were alone in a room with no caps or wigs,and you were told that De vito was bald,you could not easily tell which man was De vito?:runaway:
 
If it has a belt,you can be 100% sure that it is not a 338 Federal.If it has no belt,you can be 100% positive that it isn't a 338win mag.




Are you saying that if Arnold Schwarzeneggar and Danny De Vito were alone in a room with no caps or wigs,and you were told that De vito was bald,you could not easily tell which man was De vito?:runaway:

You completely missed what was meant!!!
 
You completely missed what was meant!!!

Not at all,however I believe that to compare the size differences between the 338 Federal and the 338win mag to the difference in size between Arnold Schwarzeneggar and Danny De Vito is completely ridiculous.

If asked to think back and remember if they saw Arnold Schwarzenegger or Danny De Vito,most people would have no problems recalling which person they saw.

The person that started this thread remembers shooting a gun chambered for a .338" cartridge,but he is unsure of which .338" cartridge.Now if asked to think back about a cartridge which he only saw briefly on one occasion,how many people do you think could remember if the case was 2" long or 2-1/2" long?Would it not be easier to remember if the case was belted?I know for me that it would be easier to remember if it had a belt than to try and estimate the size when the two only vary by 1/2".And the presence or absence of a belt does 100% rule out one cartridge or the other.Can you be 100% sure when trying to remember if the case was 2" or 2-1/2" long?
 
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