HK SL8/243/G36 FAQ, Mods, And Info
- Thread starter polskadude
- Start date
Yup, you were 100% right, not enough Cantilever to work properly with a scope that has 3.4-3.5" eye relief. I have an air rifle that it may work well for, I'll end up repurposing it for something else.
Frankly the HK SL8/G36 rail system itself is poorly designed. What a garbage connection system. Yes it's modular, but still, it's not that solid. It's frankly a huge weakness I see with the SL8/G36 design. Along with slightly better upgrades for the rail cost almost half the price of the entire rifle.
I installed the Hera rails. Look wise, I would just install the rear one and not the front. Except I have an overbore bipod for this rifle that the front Hera rail works perfectly for.
I don't know if this will work or not for mounting the scope. I have questions regarding the stability of the rail system (HERA, although it seems ok), and well the single mount I'm using which I'll get into. Here's what I did:
- HERA two piece rail. Torqued it down to regular scope base specs. Doesn't seem to move but I'm also suspect of this mounting system. Along with the original HK design.
-ARC M10 clone. This is a single piece scope mount that is a knock off of the ARC M10. They are around $50. But.. as they come, they require a slight modification. They have garbage hand tightening round kunrled bolt ends. Not good enough for anything other than a 22 or airsoft. However cheap scope rings can be found in the $15 range that have the correct size bolt nut which you can scavenge from. The reason you want these is that the right ones have an end that allows you to use a socket (11 mm works) with torque screwdriver. So now you can torque them down to 35 pounds. Now it won't go anywhere on a 223.
The reason the ARC M10 or clone in this case works, is that it has the connection to the pic rail only where the two bolts go through. So only two points of contact on the actual pic rail. or in the case of the SL8/Hera, only one point of contact. As you will have the front end hanging out in space and not connected to anything. Essentially giving you a one bolt connect cantilever mount. The rest is flat underneath and the clamp is only around the bolt. So it doesn't interfere with the thicker two front/rear attachment points of the HERA or any other rear rail system on the SL8. Did I mention the rail mounting system on the Sl8 is BS? A NightForce single mount will also likely work due to the same design parameters. However, once you go real ARC or NF, you might as well just source out a better low profile rail and use low scope rings instead.
Will this work? This is not how I would setup a scope on a high end precision rifle. That's for sure. There are just too many possible weak points. Only connecting on the rail at one point, creating tuning fork type of scenario. The Hera/SL8 pic rail connect seems secure, but as mentioned it looks like it could possible move. I torqued it down and it seems ok. But even with the SL8-5 long rail I swore I could see the base move if you add some pressure. The system is garbage to begin with and this isn't likely going to make it better. Only one way to find out I guess. When I get a chance I'll test it out.
With the big concern out of the way. IE that it might not be stable enough. Here are the positives. It looks awesome. It really does look cool. Photos coming. The UTG overbore bipod works beautifully on the front mount. Looks great as well. The 1.5" height of the M10 mount on the Hera rear base, is the perfect height. With this rail and a 3-15x 50mm objective, you get the perfect height and distance for the 3.4" eye relief. Behind the rifle it's perfect. The charging handle is very accessible. The thumbhole stock obviously still makes utilizing the safety more awkward than a pistol grip system, but as a Designated marksman it's acceptable. With the 2021 and newer (confirmed on my 2024 latest run rifle) not being chrome lined, along with some very good accuracy claims, the DM is really where I see this rifle.
I'll post some photos later. Ultimately though if it doesn't work out, how I hope, then it doesn't really matter how cool it looks.
Yup, you were 100% right, not enough Cantilever to work properly with a scope that has 3.4-3.5" eye relief. I have an air rifle that it may work well for, I'll end up repurposing it for something else.
Frankly the HK SL8/G36 rail system itself is poorly designed. What a garbage connection system. Yes it's modular, but still, it's not that solid. It's frankly a huge weakness I see with the SL8/G36 design. Along with slightly better upgrades for the rail cost almost half the price of the entire rifle.
I installed the Hera rails. Look wise, I would just install the rear one and not the front. Except I have an overbore bipod for this rifle that the front Hera rail works perfectly for.
I don't know if this will work or not for mounting the scope. I have questions regarding the stability of the rail system (HERA, although it seems ok), and well the single mount I'm using which I'll get into. Here's what I did:
- HERA two piece rail. Torqued it down to regular scope base specs. Doesn't seem to move but I'm also suspect of this mounting system. Along with the original HK design.
-ARC M10 clone. This is a single piece scope mount that is a knock off of the ARC M10. They are around $50. But.. as they come, they require a slight modification. They have garbage hand tightening round kunrled bolt ends. Not good enough for anything other than a 22 or airsoft. However cheap scope rings can be found in the $15 range that have the correct size bolt nut which you can scavenge from. The reason you want these is that the right ones have an end that allows you to use a socket (11 mm works) with torque screwdriver. So now you can torque them down to 35 pounds. Now it won't go anywhere on a 223.
The reason the ARC M10 or clone in this case works, is that it has the connection to the pic rail only where the two bolts go through. So only two points of contact on the actual pic rail. or in the case of the SL8/Hera, only one point of contact. As you will have the front end hanging out in space and not connected to anything. Essentially giving you a one bolt connect cantilever mount. The rest is flat underneath and the clamp is only around the bolt. So it doesn't interfere with the thicker two front/rear attachment points of the HERA or any other rear rail system on the SL8. Did I mention the rail mounting system on the Sl8 is BS? A NightForce single mount will also likely work due to the same design parameters. However, once you go real ARC or NF, you might as well just source out a better low profile rail and use low scope rings instead.
Will this work? This is not how I would setup a scope on a high end precision rifle. That's for sure. There are just too many possible weak points. Only connecting on the rail at one point, creating tuning fork type of scenario. The Hera/SL8 pic rail connect seems secure, but as mentioned it looks like it could possible move. I torqued it down and it seems ok. But even with the SL8-5 long rail I swore I could see the base move if you add some pressure. The system is garbage to begin with and this isn't likely going to make it better. Only one way to find out I guess. When I get a chance I'll test it out.
With the big concern out of the way. IE that it might not be stable enough. Here are the positives. It looks awesome. It really does look cool. Photos coming. The UTG overbore bipod works beautifully on the front mount. Looks great as well. The 1.5" height of the M10 mount on the Hera rear base, is the perfect height. With this rail and a 3-15x 50mm objective, you get the perfect height and distance for the 3.4" eye relief. Behind the rifle it's perfect. The charging handle is very accessible. The thumbhole stock obviously still makes utilizing the safety more awkward than a pistol grip system, but as a Designated marksman it's acceptable. With the 2021 and newer (confirmed on my 2024 latest run rifle) not being chrome lined, along with some very good accuracy claims, the DM is really where I see this rifle.
I'll post some photos later. Ultimately though if it doesn't work out, how I hope, then it doesn't really matter how cool it looks.
As someone who loves the SL8, I totally agree, to me the biggest flaw with it is the way the rail interfaces with the receiver. I've tried the TommyBuilt rail and realized that it also has a bit of play in it and the rail changes position while firing. Interestingly enough it seems to be the bolt slamming forward that causes the rail to slide around, and not when firing (I guess the bolt slamming into the barrel extension has a greater impulse than the actual bullet firing from the gun which is more gradual)
From my testing, ironically the short polymer rail actually works very well for precision specifically because it's more malleable and therefore the screws are able to bind it to the receiver better just through sheer friction.
Lots of sales on right now with SL8’s. I added a SL8-4. I’m thinking Hensoldt RSA on the short rail.
I bought the SL8-5 from Tenda. The SL8-4 from Bullseye North.
Any place for non ridiculous priced mags? Trying to avoid changing the magwell to a STANAG adapter.
Also suggestions on best place to buy a pic rail piece for the bottom of the hand guard to add a vertical grip?
Thanks
I bought the SL8-5 from Tenda. The SL8-4 from Bullseye North.
Any place for non ridiculous priced mags? Trying to avoid changing the magwell to a STANAG adapter.
Also suggestions on best place to buy a pic rail piece for the bottom of the hand guard to add a vertical grip?
Thanks
just ordered my bottom rail from RDSC, iirc G4c can get but was out of stock.
as for mags, I bought the magwell... rather have 10 shots.
Edit, got to shoot it finally it shoots pretty accurate. I like it!
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