Hmmm I'm not a glock armorer...I need help.

[In The Black]

I was hesitant to post this... I like this pistol...if you don't, I really don't want to hear it.


I need the help of the wise:

-G22 Gen 4-

There I was, laying a beating to the sheet of paper in front of me, when I noticed that the locking block pin had work its way half out of the frame??

Not thinking, my finger flicked forwards and just stuffed the pin back in... (enter problem)

Now, I chamber the first round, on a full mag, with no issue... shoot said round with no issue, but then have a failure to feed on the second round and the slide is locked back as if the mag is empty?

I'm leaning towards this small spring, and the slide lock, but I have no clue....

Help a guy out?

Cheers. ITB.

 

[caramel]

You might have push it back over the small retainer pin that keep the release under full load, this little straigt spring must be under the locking block pin... JP.

 

[paratrooper777]

being a former glock armourer and cant find my manual at the moment but as I recall , the locking block pin is what holds the tension on the slide lock, if pin is on wrong side of slide lock spring the tension is reversed and it forces the slide lock up. tension should be DOWN towards frame not up.
its a simple fix if you have a glock armourer nearby ?
some gun shops have cert glock armourers
some one has prob done a you tube video of it?
also a diagram of glock model 22
a glock tool (small pin punch ) helps

 

[caramel]

Easy fix, take the retaining pin out, then put it back in making sure the little strait spring is under the pin... JP.

 

[In The Black]

Gentlemen,
You're brilliant.

When the pin came out, the spring flipped to rest on top of the pin, which had the slide lock raised.

I removed the pin, as suggested, held the spring end down, and then slide the pin back in, so that it was over the spring now. Doing this has the slide lock held down, as it should be.

Thank you very much.

As a secondary question, why would this pin be so free? is a light Loctite application an option here?

Thanks again.

ITB

 

[Brettzky]

Had this problem at one time as well on my G35 after changing out the pins without watching a proper tutorial. There is part of the spring stuck on the wrong side of the locking block pin. You'll see it when you take it apart again. Just make sure the spring is stuck on the other side .. you'll know.

 

[caramel]

Stripping a Glock a few times, it get pretty easy to do, myself, i can now change my spring and connector 3.5 pounds one hand in my back in about 5 minutes, will do my G 20 pretty soon... JP.

 

[plinker 777]

Gentlemen,
You're brilliant.

When the pin came out, the spring flipped to rest on top of the pin, which had the slide lock raised.

I removed the pin, as suggested, held the spring end down, and then slide the pin back in, so that it was over the spring now. Doing this has the slide lock held down, as it should be.

Thank you very much.

As a secondary question, why would this pin be so free? is a light Loctite application an option here?

Thanks again.

ITB

You're asking the right questions, but I don't believe loctite is your answer. 'Loctite' is a thread locking compound that 'sets-up' in the absence of air when something is threaded into a threaded bore. Your problem is a loose plastic pin (If original, or stainless if aftermarket) in the bore of the frame. If the frame is enlarged I would recommend trying to stake the pin in place by stippling/staking the (new and therefore proper sized) pin in place before resorting to something like a 'Gorrilla' bonding agent. YMMV.

 

[caramel]

Pistols are just logic, did smooth out my M&P45 trigger by polishing the sear in about an hour...

Big improvment over original, very smooth trigger now... JP.

 

[*MALICE*]

You're asking the right questions, but I don't believe loctite is your answer. 'Loctite' is a thread locking compound that 'sets-up' in the absence of air when something is threaded into a threaded bore. Your problem is a loose plastic pin (If original, or stainless if aftermarket) in the bore of the frame. If the frame is enlarged I would recommend trying to stake the pin in place by stippling/staking the (new and therefore proper sized) pin in place before resorting to something like a 'Gorrilla' bonding agent. YMMV.

They make loctite for locking bearings and dowel pins in too. They have it in different formulations for press and slip fits.

 

[caramel]

They make loctite for locking bearings and dowel pins in too. They have it in different formulations for press and slip fits.

You are right about that, green Locktite 609 retaining compound will permit to fill the void solidely to 4 mil... JP.

 

[plinker 777]

^ I'm aware of green loctite 609, have used it with great success in the past, and there is a partial bottle in my toolbox as I type this...it is for steel...we are discussing some sort of plastics compound (what is a Glock frame and pins made out of?). The OP can certainly buy a bottle (it ain't cheap) and try it...but I wouldn't recommend to anyone that this is the best course of action.

The more I kinda think about it, its not my gun...why do i care...do as you will.

 

[*MALICE*]

Just bust out the JB weld

 

[caramel]

^ I'm aware of green loctite 609, have used it with great success in the past, and there is a partial bottle in my toolbox as I type this...it is for steel...we are discussing some sort of plastics compound (what is a Glock frame and pins made out of?). The OP can certainly buy a bottle (it ain't cheap) and try it...but I wouldn't recommend to anyone that this is the best course of action.

The more I kinda think about it, its not my gun...why do i care...do as you will.

I have pull myself out of trouble many times with the 609... JP.

 

[plinker 777]

^ Me too, LARGE wheel hubs worn out where bearing cups sit...Conventional fix=new wheel hub ($). My loctite 609 fix, knerl the soft hub steel with a sharp chisel, clean with solvent and dry...install new bearing cup with 609 on the outer surface and 'Bob's you're Uncle' fixed. ($ thousands saved)