Hodgdon CFE pistol powder

It was just introduced in the states a few months ago... hit the shelves last month... will be 6 months+ before we see it up here

CFE-PISTOL-Img.jpg
 
The rifle powder has some copper fouling removing properties. It helps but doesn't solve the problem entirely. It also doesn't produce the same accuracy as a lot of other powders on the market (Varget, Benchmark, etc.) for most people.

My opinion:
If it's the same price as similar powders, sure, give it a shot.
If it's a premium price, no way.
 
Humm, might have to get a 1lb jug or so when it hits the shelves to try out... if it's the same price or cheaper than Titegroup. :)
 
The CFE technology works very well, I use the rifle version in my varmint 223 and I might clean it next year, after hunting season.... Maybe.... Patch here and there for carbon but thats all it requires to make 2-300 yrd kills consistently with little degradation in accuracy.
 
The CFE technology works very well, I use the rifle version in my varmint 223 and I might clean it next year, after hunting season.... Maybe.... Patch here and there for carbon but thats all it requires to make 2-300 yrd kills consistently with little degradation in accuracy.


The powder is available in bulk from Higginson's.

CanuckWR, you are having better luck with this powder than I am. I haven't noticed any real difference in my Tikka T3 in 223Rem.

Now just to be up front, this rifle isn't a fouler anyway. It will easily shoot 50 rounds without the groups opening up.

At first, I was a bit disappointed with it, until I found it really likes just a hair of compression and magnum primers. I had been dumping the powder/bullet out of some Norinco 223Rem and replacing it with 60 grain Hornady Vmax over CFE. My groups weren't fantastic at all, especially for this rifle.

I was surprised because the batch of Norinco ammo I bought shoots very well in this rifle, as it comes from the box. Doesn't seem to be temp sensitive either. Mind you, in BC, we haven't had the extreme weather they've had east of the Rockies.

Anyway, something was wrong. The brass was fine, as were the bullets. This particular lot is one of the best I've had as far as consistency goes for accuracy. The only difference was the load. The powder in the Norinco rounds carries exactly the same weight and volume of powder as the BLC2 load I use with that bullet. It gives identical velocities as well, or within a 35fps range. The primers, are hard as hell but about as hot as CCI BR.

The hard primers, certainly aren't conducive to consistent ignition. I sold off the rifles that hammered the hell out of these primers and it wasn't a problem. I sold them because I was tired of lugging heavy rifles across a field or through the brush to a coyote stand or out on the range for ground squirrels. As I age, I need to make things easier, rather than grit my teeth and bear it. So, now I shoot the Tikka T3 and am very happy with it. Problem is, I may have to get ahold of Wolf Springs and order up a new, stiffer firing pin spring.

Anyway, changed out the primers for the CCI small rifle Magnum primers and everything just fell into place. Luckily it was that easy.

Now to the CFE powder. I was a bit perturbed about how dirty it seemed to burn. The magnum primers didn't make any difference in what appeared to be powder fouling. After 20 test rounds, the powder fouling in the bore didn't increase at all. I cleaned the rifle, because I am used to cleaning after 20 rounds. Old habits are hard to break. It wasn't needed. A quick pass with a bore mop soaked with Hoppes No 9 and a pass with a clean patch showed almost now copper fouling. Not that this was unusual for this rifle but the next test included the last 40 rounds I had in the box. I repeated the same cleaning procedure mentioned. There looked to be a slight bit more copper fouling but accuracy remained consistent. Cleaning really wasn't necessary.

It's still to early to claim the powder residue in the barrel is actually working like a lubricant or maybe as a bore coating. There are claims that there is a very mild abrasive in the powder that scrapes the copper deposits from the bore. Somehow, I doubt that but maybe I just have a hard time getting my head around it and don't understand how that can work by just blowing over it. I think, the next round down the bore, along with the residue from the previous cartridge is what really scrubs the fouling. I would be willing to bet, the abrasive is extremely mild and extremely fine grained and the combination of being squeezed between the bullet and the bore are doing the trick.

Next time out, I am going to take a 120 rounds with me. I will shoot until accuracy starts to deteriorate before I clean.

So far, it's looking good. I just picked up a lovely Sharps from a good CGNer and I was hoping to use CFE with 405gr cast lead as a starting point. It may be to slow for this purpose.
 
Bearhunter

My 223 is also a Tikka, CM barrel sythetic 12 twist, nothing special. I wouldn't call it an "accurate" gun, and I didn't even try to make a bughole load for it. It is however, rock solid consistent, moa with EVERYTHING. I have probably 3-400 rounds since last cleaning, various factory and my favorite bunny/varmint buster of 29gn CFE-223 over a 40gn Nosler Bt, in federal brass. (*This load works with no adverse pressure in my gun, Its on the warm side by the book data, start low and work up on your own*). It does seem to like to be hot loaded. I played with a 308 win load when I first got the powder, it was pretty inconsistent loaded lighter and I eventually gave up and went back to varget/IMR4064. It doesn't shoot at paper, ever, but I haven't noticed a loss in accuracy on the small game. I am getting a pretty good reputation as a varmint destroyer among the low brow types I hang out with. Head shots at 150-200yrds are common and extremely entertaining. ;)


I should run some Wipeout through and post pics, I know the last 50-60 rounds through were all CFE-223 loads so it would tell if it worked to clean the bore. Not overly scientific but a real world example...
 
My rifle has a 1-8 twist rate.

CFE is about 10% slower than BLC2. It may not be the ideal powder, accuracy wise for 40gr bullets in such a slow twist barrel.

MOA is great accuracy for coyotes out to 3-400 yards.

As far as head shots go, I am not a fan of those, unless as you mention 200 yards or less. I watched a fellow just before Christmas mis dope the wind and shoot the nose and upper jaw off a coyote at just over 250 yards. It went down hard and fast but quickly got back up again. Luckily it was running straight away from us and I was able to put a 6.5 x 95gr Vmax into a Texas Heart Shot. He wasn't running hard as he was still pretty confused. My companion, was pretty rattled when he saw the damage done to the snout. It was his first coyote. Now, it is mass of chest shots only. They kill just as fast, with much less chance of wounding.

I'm off topic, sorry.

Your rifle should be able to shoot much tighter groups than you are getting. How is your parallax at 200yds and does your scope have AO???

I did try some CFE in the fellows rifle I mentioned above. His rifle has a 1-14 twist rate. It also required a slightly compressed load over magnum primers to get best performance. His groups tightened up to sub moa, if he did his part and kept an eye on his parallax. That's why he was so confident about a head shot. I should mention, he is just coming 10 years of age and sometimes finds taking range, parallax, wind, breathing and trigger control all at the same time a bit perplexing.

I will also admit to being an accuracy whore. I had similar groups as you mention with my T3 when I was using standard primers. Give some magnum primers a try and see if there is any difference. As mentioned, this powder is quite slow in comparison to the case. When loaded the way it likes to be, it is a very consistent performer.

It also seems to be a powder developed for smaller cases. I wanted to use it in the 45-70 but there is just way to much case capacity for a safe compressed load. Might be OK in a Ruger #1 or Siamese Mauser but not in a Trap Door or Sharps.

I am going to give it a try in a 7.62x39 on an AIA rifle. I think it will be fine. The next rifle I would like to try it in is a 30-30 Winchester.
 
My rifle has a 1-8 twist rate.

CFE is about 10% slower than BLC2. It may not be the ideal powder, accuracy wise for 40gr bullets in such a slow twist barrel.

MOA is great accuracy for coyotes out to 3-400 yards.

As far as head shots go, I am not a fan of those, unless as you mention 200 yards or less. I watched a fellow just before Christmas mis dope the wind and shoot the nose and upper jaw off a coyote at just over 250 yards. It went down hard and fast but quickly got back up again. Luckily it was running straight away from us and I was able to put a 6.5 x 95gr Vmax into a Texas Heart Shot. He wasn't running hard as he was still pretty confused. My companion, was pretty rattled when he saw the damage done to the snout. It was his first coyote. Now, it is mass of chest shots only. They kill just as fast, with much less chance of wounding.

I'm off topic, sorry.

Your rifle should be able to shoot much tighter groups than you are getting. How is your parallax at 200yds and does your scope have AO???

I did try some CFE in the fellows rifle I mentioned above. His rifle has a 1-14 twist rate. It also required a slightly compressed load over magnum primers to get best performance. His groups tightened up to sub moa, if he did his part and kept an eye on his parallax. That's why he was so confident about a head shot. I should mention, he is just coming 10 years of age and sometimes finds taking range, parallax, wind, breathing and trigger control all at the same time a bit perplexing.

I will also admit to being an accuracy whore. I had similar groups as you mention with my T3 when I was using standard primers. Give some magnum primers a try and see if there is any difference. As mentioned, this powder is quite slow in comparison to the case. When loaded the way it likes to be, it is a very consistent performer.

It also seems to be a powder developed for smaller cases. I wanted to use it in the 45-70 but there is just way to much case capacity for a safe compressed load. Might be OK in a Ruger #1 or Siamese Mauser but not in a Trap Door or Sharps.

I am going to give it a try in a 7.62x39 on an AIA rifle. I think it will be fine. The next rifle I would like to try it in is a 30-30 Winchester.


I don't feel bad for gophers, don't shoot yote's though. ;)
 
I wasn't trying to chastise you. Sorry if I came across that way.

Thanks for the information, I appreciate it.

My load for 60 grain bullets is 27.5, with no pressure signs. It's definitely on the hot side but it works well with the heavier bullets.
 
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