For a home job until I can afford a professional Blue, what finish would be easier and more durable that I can do at home? I like the look of A high polish blue, thats why I want to eventually get my Norc 1911 pro blued, but I heard that the home blueing stuff does not provide a very durable finish. So I am looking at parkerizing. If I get my Norc parked, will I still be able to get it blued later on? What One would be my best option for a durable finish until i have the cash for a professional blue?? Thanks.
Home parking or blueing?
- Thread starter LeeEnfieldNo.4_mk1
- Start date
parking is best, but a bit more expensive since its only sold is larger bottles, but you can do many guns for the 90 dollars.
all you need is a steel bowl, and a heat source (take it outside on a camp stove).
all you need is a steel bowl, and a heat source (take it outside on a camp stove).
Parkerizing doesn't require a ferrous metal free room. Hot bluing does. Cold bluing is a touch up thing. Bluing after parkerizing will add to the cost of the bluing job. It'll have to be removed before the prep polishing is done. Bluing isn't as durable as parkerizing. Nor does it give as much protection.
Parking is easy as long as your carefull. A bottle of phosphoric acid at the hydroponics store is $10 and a kilo of zinc phosphate or Manganese is under $20, a gallon of distilled water a pad of steel wool and your all set. That will do a couple of 870's. 3 oz. of acid + 3 oz of either the zinc or the manganese per gallon of water, Throw in a bisquit of steel wool. Boil for 10 minutes before adding the parts. Add the parts, back off the boil to 180 deg f. Let the parts simmer for 20 minutes, take them out rinse in water and spray with wd 40. The parts MUST be totally de greased before parking. Do not touch them with your bare hands. If it comes out of the tank and looks spotty, de grease and throw them back in for another 10 minutes, rinse and oil. It's not Voodoo or witchcraft, and if you don't like the results you can do it again. I like the Zinc phosphate better, it's a little more grey than black. To top it off give it a teflon coating. With some guns the hardest part is stripping them down to nothing (or getting them back together again)
I have seen a very nice parkerizing job that done on his kitchen stove by Rockchucker on the board here. It looked great, and appeared to be very durable. Perhaps he will chime in here with his thoughts.
Also, I am wondering how many other guys may have tried this at home?
Ted
Also, I am wondering how many other guys may have tried this at home?
Ted
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- Location
- Whitehorse, Yukon
Based on the original posters request . The inital cost of a stainless container and parkerizing chemical and thermometer would come very close to the cost of a decent basic bluing job.
Home parkerizing is cost effective if your doing more than one rifle. Extremely durable if done right, at least as durable than most professional hot tank bluing.
Nothing difficult at all and yes it can be done on the kitchen stove top provided your mate is an understanding one.
If your looking to have only one rifle done let me know by PM to make arrangements.
Home parkerizing is cost effective if your doing more than one rifle. Extremely durable if done right, at least as durable than most professional hot tank bluing.
Nothing difficult at all and yes it can be done on the kitchen stove top provided your mate is an understanding one.
If your looking to have only one rifle done let me know by PM to make arrangements.
Try slow rust blueing. It's more labour intensive, but the chemicals are dirt cheap, relatively safe, easily available and all you really need is a pot big enough to boil the parts in. The slow rust blueing, if done properly is superior to even hot salt blueing. I did a Savage 1899 and the results were excellent. Search this site for slow rust blueing and you should find what you need. If you want to pm me I can give you a general rundown on the process.
OK, So I need a stainless steel bowl, some phosphoric acid, and some zinc or manganese phosphate? What would give me a dark gray finish, zinc or manganese? So i am looking at around $50? I am assuming its the tank that is the most costly? I like working on firearms and I have a few parts that need a new finish, I can defiantly see me doing more firearms in the future.
