Honest Review and Impressions of Bergara B14 HMR

hunter-4-life

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I see a lot of people posting asking about the Bergara line of rifles so I thought I would attempt to do an honest review of my B14 HMR in 6.5 Creed and my experience with load development.

To shorten this up, I am the 2nd owner of this rifle. I took it on trade and put it to work. It came with a trigger tech special in it already. I am not a competitive shooter, nor do I pretend to be. I am a firm believer in the KISS method and try to represent the group of shooters who are on a budget and aren't looking to set records or compete but just want to have fun.

First impressions:

The stock is very easy to hold, shoulder and get comfortable with. The adjustable cheek piece is slick and easy to use. HOWEVER be warned for those who shoot with ear muffs and not plugs. The cheek riser I find gets close to my muffs, and when shooting the recoil pinches your cheek between muff and the end of the cheek riser. It actually made my buddy bleed the one night, so I would highly encourage ear plugs, not muffs. Moving on, the LOP is also adjustable but since I am 2nd owner I didn't receive the parts to adjust it, and it doesn't need to be adjusted for me. Why fix something that isn't broken. It was nice to see a factory rifle with AICS compatible mag's and a big tab to release the mag, not some tiny button thats difficult to find and push. The barrel is threaded with 5/8x24 threads for you to thread your own brake on. I threw a APA Lil Bastard Gen 2 from the EE on, very happy with its performance. The action is as smooth as a Tikka, but the footprint of a model 700 AND has a Sako extractor. Basically, what I would describe as the best factory action on the market. With it having the TT in it, I see no need to change our parts or upgrade anything else on it.

**The biggest downfall is the mag well isn't as long as the magazine. I seated leads to 2.880 which is all the magazine holds, and could not feed them. A quick fix was grab some cotton balls, fill the chamber, triangular file and round file were used very carefully to open up the middle of the mag well. 5 mins later that issue was fixed**

Range Review/Accuracy:

After getting this rifle, I put a Vortex Diamondback 6-24x50 FFP MOA scope on and as stated above, APA Lil Bastard Gen 2 Brake. The rifle came with Lapua SRP brass and some 140gr Berger HUnting VLD's. Previous owner stated it liked 43gr of H4350 with the Lapua brass but couldn't remember length. After giving it a thorough cleaning (I always clean a new to me rifle) I went and tried every length from jam to 0.200" off. No dice, the best I was able to get it to shoot was about 2" at 200 (2.840" OAL). I removed the brake, tried again. Same results. I then put brake back on, set it to 2.840 OAL and started at 39.5 and went to 42.8 in 0.3gr increments. Once again, not the results I was after. Groups anywhere from 1" to 3" at 100 yards. Tried Hornady brass with my best depth, and results were the same with various charges.

I gave up hope with the VLD's and bought 100 Nosler RDF's and started from scratch. Found what I would describe as a node at about 42.3gr of H4350 and played with depth. Long story short, I found a "1 hole" load with RDF's and H4350 but without the brake, put the brake on and that "1 holer" went to 2" *sigh* After shooting all 100 leads, trying both Hornady brass and Lapua SRP brass in groups of 3 (and 1 group of 4 obviously lol) still nothing better then 1 MOA. I was about ready to call it good enough, but my instructor at fire college drilled into my head that "good enough isn't good enough" and keep trying.

Frustrated, I bought some 140gr ELD-M's, said screw the Lapua SRP brass and went back to the basics. Every other 6.5 Creed i've ever loaded for has driven tacks with 41.5gr of H4350. 2.965" OAL was jammed in my rifle, I loaded everything with 41.5gr H4350 from 2.950" to 2.880" in 0.010" reductions. I left the brake on and took 3 shots at each depth. Expecting it to not shoot to my standards, I was shocked. Every single depth I tried, shot 0.5 MOA or under. Multiple "1 Hole" loads were discovered @ 100 yards. Since my magazine can only seat out to 2.880" thats what I picked, as it shot 1 hole at 100 and 0.5" at 200. The next day, I went out to my hide away and hung steel at 400 and 700 yards to test this load. 400 yards was impressive, dialed 7.5 MOA up and 0.5 MOA Left for wind, fired 5. First one was slightly high and left, next 4 were all in a 2" group slightly high maybe 0.25-0.5 MOA, giving me a 2.5" group at 400. Success, out to 700 we go. Again, dialed up (19 MOA) and over a few for wind, 6 shots, 6 hits. Upon examination, I found a 4.6" group at 700 yards on the right side of the plate. I couldn't believe it, I was more excited than a kid on Christmas.


Conclusion:
If you are someone who is looking to start shooting longer ranges without breaking the bank, this is the rifle. In my opinion, as someone who shoots on a budget and after owning multiple Tikka's, Remingtons, Savages and Brownings, this is the best bang for your buck. You can find them on the EE for anywhere from $1000-$1500 depending on condition/round count. It has an awesome stock/mini chassis, magazine setup is perfect and action is top notch. Yes the mag well needed to be opened up a bit BUT in the big picture thats minor. I am fond of this rifle not only for the accuracy and how impressive everything is, but the fact that if I wanted to build a "custom" I wouldn't need to change anything. The stock/chassis is perfect, action is trued up, has a nice detachable mag thats already AICS compatible and this particular one has a trigger in it. If you ever cook the barrel, for $800 +/- you put a new tube on and away you go. No bedding, truing, anything and you'll have a gun that will shoot as good as your neighbours cousins uncles $4500 custom.

I just also want to clarify I estimated my velocity at 2700 FPS and have yet to check an ES or SD. As above, I believe in KISS and have seen some low ES/SD loads shoot like garbage and i've seen high ES/SD loads shoot good. Im not saying it doesn't play a factor, but for the crowd on a budget and not competing, go throw lead, learn something and have fun.

To achieve this accuracy was a slight pain HOWEVER I am posting this to help others who might be struggling to get the same results. I would chalk it up to the fact that this particular rifle doesn't like the 140 VLD's, 140 RDF's or for that matter the Lapua SRP brass. That doesn't mean that your will like the 140 ELD-M's either. Just have to be patient and try different things. If anyone has any questions, or would like photos of my groups please ask. I do have pictures to prove my I am slightly tech challenged and cannot figure out how to post pictures here but I am more then happy to send them to someone to enjoy or to even post them up here on my behalf.

Happy shooting everyone!
 
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Thanks for the very thorough review. Really enjoyed reading that. I have a cheap Savage 10TR that I found a "good enough" load for it (.75 MOA), but if I ever decide to get tighter groups, or a more ergonomic stock - the Bergara is probably my choice.
 
Thanks for the very thorough review. Really enjoyed reading that. I have a cheap Savage 10TR that I found a "good enough" load for it (.75 MOA), but if I ever decide to get tighter groups, or a more ergonomic stock - the Bergara is probably my choice.

I owned a savage 10T SR in 6mm Creed that shot very very well, I will not knock a Savage, ever. In my opinion the Savage 10 is still the "basic entry level, learning in case I don't enjoy the sport, shoot 300-500 yards for fun" gun. The Bergara is the next step up in with the Tikka Tac A1, Ruger Precision etc etc, then you have the high $$ customs. The goal is to practice up with this throughout the rest of summer and into the fall, then try out PRS next year and see how I like that.
 
Used prices I'd play with one maybe, $1500 for a Spanish cast receiver with a neutered Rem 700 action is not what I consider "ideal" or "perfect".
Throw a Sako extractor on a 700 you negate the perfect gas handling ability of the design. The Bergera design has already shown that pierced primers can blow the bolt shroud up in your face, they have a nice bulletin on it already. I've had pierced primers in a dozen different actions and none blew the bolt should up, or even gassed me in the face.
They make good barrels, the rest of the rifle is cheaply made, literally as cheap as possible, not a premium rifle by any accounts.
 
I like the Bergara rifles, (don't own one) I have read about the firing pin needing to be bushed on some. I wish the 6.5 Creed HMR had a 24" barrel as it's only 22". The BMP model has a 24"barrel so not sure why they don't use the same.
My Savage Stealth 6.5 shoots lights out and does very well at distance and was easy to tune the 140 VLDH. The bolt is decent, mag feed is decent. It could be smoother of course but when I let my friends shoot it they just smile and want to take it home, so can't be that bad for sure.
 
Used prices I'd play with one maybe, $1500 for a Spanish cast receiver with a neutered Rem 700 action is not what I consider "ideal" or "perfect".
Throw a Sako extractor on a 700 you negate the perfect gas handling ability of the design. The Bergera design has already shown that pierced primers can blow the bolt shroud up in your face, they have a nice bulletin on it already. I've had pierced primers in a dozen different actions and none blew the bolt should up, or even gassed me in the face.
They make good barrels, the rest of the rifle is cheaply made, literally as cheap as possible, not a premium rifle by any accounts.


I really really want to like the bergara hmr but this is spot on with my assessment as well. The bolt shroud issue really has scared me off I personally don't see the need for the Sako or M16 style extractor cut but lots of people think it's a good feature.
 
They make good barrels, the rest of the rifle is cheaply made, literally as cheap as possible, not a premium rifle by any accounts.

I think your out to lunch on this comment. The stock isnt cheap feeling like a Tikka, the mag isn't a little plastic tab like a Tikka or savage. And takes AICS mags. The action is smoother then a model 700. To make a model 700 close to this, you'll have to change bottom metal, true the action, put a different extractor in and put an oversized bolt handle on. All money that could be used towards glass. Just trying to compare apples to apples.

If you want to compare the action to a custom of course it wont be up to par. Imo its leaps ahead of a factory 700 rifle. Yes the 700 with some money dumped into it is impressive, but from the factory. Store bought rifle to factory rifle, the Bergara is ahead for sure. I have yet to read, or experience issues with primer piercing, or even see primers that I thought were getting close to that point. Im not saying it isnt a thing, but my experience I have yet to see an issue with it.
 
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Not having any experience with a Bergara, I did some searching on the 'net.
The extractor is akin to the system as used on push feed M70 Winchesters, and the Savage 110 line. Small laterally sliding unit set in the front of a locking lug, powered by a spring and plunger set in a hole drilled back into the lug. This system is established, and generally works well enough.
With this extractor system, breeching is similar to the Winchester and Savage. That is, inferior to the 700 Remington from the standpoint of protecting the shooter in the even of a catastrophic case failure. The Remington is simply superior to most other commercial actions from that standpoint. Probably doesn't matter unless there is a dramatic case failure. I have have seen the results of failed cases. Hopefully you'll never experience one.
It sounds as if there was a real problem with pierced primers resulting in damage to the bolt shroud. Firing pin blown back punching out the rear of the shroud. That is getting really close to the shooter's eye. It appears that the fit of the firing pin in the bolt face has been corrected, which should remedy the pierced primer issue. If the bolt shroud is going to act as a backstop for the striker assembly, it should be designed to absorb the impact without fracturing. Punching out the rear of the shroud is unacceptable.
I have no idea if a Bergara action is more or less likely to need "blueprinting" than a 700. Only way to know if any particular action needs to be worked over is to tear the rifle down and do some very careful measuring. Only way to know if a particular make is likely to need attention is to tear down a quantity of actions and perform the same measurements on each.
The AICS magazine system is a good one, and is becoming the industry standard.
 
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