I'm making a powder horn and have come across a problem. The horn has already had a notch cut around the tip, near the spout for a leather strap. The horn itself is lifting at that notch and is jagged enough to pull away in short strips if it catches on clothing. Would you recommend a thinned epoxy to soak the edges, or is there another method to dealing with horn like this?
Horn making
- Thread starter H Wally
- Start date
BrotherRockeye
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Rural Saskatchewan
I'd soak a strip of rawhide and bind it with that.once it dries you'll never have another problem.
I would file it out as long as the horn is thick enough. It is not too uncommon to see horns with the last couple of inches reduced in diameter and often with a scalloped edge between the upper and lower portions
cheers mooncoon
cheers mooncoon
BrotherRockeye
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Rural Saskatchewan
they had epoxy in the old days..?
if you want to stay traditional,I have a coupla raw buffalo hides I can cut you a piece and send it to you if you like...
I like to work with skin and bone
if you want to stay traditional,I have a coupla raw buffalo hides I can cut you a piece and send it to you if you like...
I like to work with skin and bone
Well, as this is my first one I may just go with thinned epoxy. I've already got a turned brass and rubber washered spout on it, so that kindof takes away from being 100% home made, but I'm going to still make the cap etc for it.
BrotherRockEye - thanks for the offer! As it stands I've been offered a whole buffalo skin.... just need to flesh, thin, and tan it .... Can't wait!
BrotherRockEye - thanks for the offer! As it stands I've been offered a whole buffalo skin.... just need to flesh, thin, and tan it
.... Can't wait!
BrotherRockEye - thanks for the offer! As it stands I've been offered a whole buffalo skin.... just need to flesh, thin, and tan it
Now that would deserve a thread all it's own.
- Location
- Algoma region
Is there some procedure where you can soften and thus flatten a section of horn??
Ideally I would want the section of the then flat horn to harden and remain flat so I can carve a piece I need for the flintlock rifle I have been building.
Any ideas??
Ideally I would want the section of the then flat horn to harden and remain flat so I can carve a piece I need for the flintlock rifle I have been building.
Any ideas??
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I don't know if I understand correctly what is going on with the horn, but if there are bits of the surface layer that are getting detached and catching in your clothing and such, I'd use auto body grade fiberglass (like Bondo, which is probably the best brand for the money).
I've worked quite a bit with this stuff and the beauty of it is that it's transparent, can be made as thick or thin as you like (thick like jello or as liquid as paint - depending on the amount of hardener you put and how fast you work with it) and covers surfaces with a shiny, glass-like coat.
Of course, I've mostly applied it in automotive-only applications, but the principle is the same. Once it would soak into all the pores & fibers of that horn and then harden, I bet you the horn would outlive all of our great-great grand-children, lol - and become a symbolic antique some day.
Basically, fiberglass resin is like epoxy... but in liquid & transparent (clear) form. You apply it evenly in thin coats with a normal paintbrush like paint, then you wash your paintbrush in acetone. Once it hardens, it becomes like metal, plus it's totally waterproof and will never rot. Personally, I've had a lot of success with it...
I've worked quite a bit with this stuff and the beauty of it is that it's transparent, can be made as thick or thin as you like (thick like jello or as liquid as paint - depending on the amount of hardener you put and how fast you work with it) and covers surfaces with a shiny, glass-like coat.
Of course, I've mostly applied it in automotive-only applications, but the principle is the same. Once it would soak into all the pores & fibers of that horn and then harden, I bet you the horn would outlive all of our great-great grand-children, lol - and become a symbolic antique some day.
Basically, fiberglass resin is like epoxy... but in liquid & transparent (clear) form. You apply it evenly in thin coats with a normal paintbrush like paint, then you wash your paintbrush in acetone. Once it hardens, it becomes like metal, plus it's totally waterproof and will never rot. Personally, I've had a lot of success with it...
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I'm trying to make a deal with the woman who has them - she teaches me on one, I take that one, then do one of hers to say thank you.
That or see if she has any use for my blacksmithing skills, which I suspect will be more interesting to her. In any event, I'm going to be documenting it, and may do a tutorial for kicks.
Yep - it's acting like when plywood gets old and the layers delaminate. The top layer gets raggedy, lifts, catches on something and pulls loose, and that then pulls the layer below loose and so on.
I've got a bunch of fiberglass resin somewhere.... I'm pretty sure it's still good so may as well give it a try.
Thanks!
vagrantviking
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Southern Alberta
To get horn to soften and hold its new shape I've heard that it has to be boiled at the very least. And even then it might try to revert to its original shape over time.
I found a site that advocated using a heat gun to get it even warmer - right to the point of it starting to sweat out the natural oils. Think that I would try boiling first myself.
Have a couple raw ones in the shed that still need the cores removed so there is going to be the smell of boiling horn to compete with the neighbours BBQ one day this week.
I found a site that advocated using a heat gun to get it even warmer - right to the point of it starting to sweat out the natural oils. Think that I would try boiling first myself.
Have a couple raw ones in the shed that still need the cores removed so there is going to be the smell of boiling horn to compete with the neighbours BBQ one day this week.
