Hornady brass any good?

LOL....I wasn't pushing anything....a question was asked about a particular product and I shared my first hand experience. My Creedmoor shoots well with Hornady brass and I've reloaded that brass three times and had to trim after twice....is that really that hard for you to believe with your 20 years of experience? But yes, I agree...you do sound tired. To the OP...i apologize for the derail...i have no experience with your cartridge so take my experience for what it's worth.
 
I have dealt with this brass in 7mm-08, and a couple other calibre choices .

Tight primer pockets.

Prefer other manufacturers brass if available.

IMHO I wouldn't let that make my choice on the rifle if I had a stiffy for the calibre, but it would deter me if another suitable option was available.

Norskie
 
I haven't had any issues with Hornady brass until I bought some factory loaded .30-30 FTX leverevolution ammo. I thought it was just primer pockets being too tight but it turned out they where actually too shallow. I use a pocket swager and it didn't do anything; I ended up having to get a primer pocket uniformer and run it in a drill to cut the pockets to depth (quite a bit of brass was removed). It was so much work I just tossed them in my scrap metal box because I have so much easier to use .30-30 brass.

Interesting. I bought some of this ammo just because I wanted to try it out. I reload 30-30, so I kept the brass for a rainy day, but reading this I'll make sure to keep it separate, and I'll bin it in a heartbeat if I see any signs of trouble - I have enough good 30-30 brass where I don't need to work about losing these. They certainly wouldn't be worth the work you just described.
 
I avoid Hornady brass if there are other options, but if you really want to try a certain chambering, and Hornady is your only choice, then I wouldn't let that stop you. I prefer Lapua most of all, but I use Remington brass as a second choice. The Hornady 223rem brass that I used while waiting for my Lapua brass shot okay, but it didn't last nearly as long as Lapua brass typically lasts.
 
I have resisted getting a 375 Ruger for this exact reason. My son has had so much brass trouble with his Horn brass in his 375 that I posted an experiment making 375 Ruger from 300 WM W-W brass. It worked out well.
I personally will not use or buy Horn brass ever!!
 
If your going to build the rifle why not look at the 338-06, you will get higher velocity, less bolt thrust and have a unlimited supply of brass from any manufacture.
 
If your going to build the rifle why not look at the 338-06, you will get higher velocity, less bolt thrust and have a unlimited supply of brass from any manufacture.

I have had one and plan to build another. However I really like 338's and wanted to try a short action that offers more than the 338 federal.
 
Ever thought about the 338-284, double gun? or a 338 WSM? or a 338-350RM?

I have considered two of those. Shown below are a few dummies I loaded just to see. L to R 338saum, 338-350rm, 338wsm. All loaded to fit a unaltered remington short action magazine. Of the 3 I like the SAUM the best, but that one is dead in the water aswell. I think it holds 5 gr more than the 338RCM if I remember right. I know where there is a fair amount of the saum brass instock - but wonder what the difference would be buying a bunch of saum brass vs a bunch of rcm brass since both are dying (or are already dead).
what are your thoughts on hornady vs remington brass?
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I agree with this.

I was sizing some Lapua brass and had 10 Hornady in the mix of about 80.

I could tell almost every piece of Hornady that went through.

"That felt weird" turned it over, sure enough, Hornady.

Depends on caliber. Hornady doesn't manufacture all their own brass (a lot of companies are like this, apparently).

Some calibers are not bad, some (.338 LM being a good example) are 'use once then destroy'. I tend to avoid it, as a general statement.
 
I find Remington brass to be quite tough and long lasting but have less consistent case weights. It's my preferred brass for reloading simply because it seems to last longer in any rifle I use it in compared to any other non-premium brand.
I use Winchester in my wannabe-bench-rest rifle (700 VLS in .308) because they seem to delivery better accuracy and the tight chamber keeps the brass from wearing out too fast.
 
I have resisted getting a 375 Ruger for this exact reason. My son has had so much brass trouble with his Horn brass in his 375 that I posted an experiment making 375 Ruger from 300 WM W-W brass. It worked out well.
I personally will not use or buy Horn brass ever!!

Come on, 375 Ruger owners know from what you have previously posted that you would never buy a 375 Ruger, period, the brass is a bogus excuse.
 
I had run out issues, the only worse .223 and .308 brass for it was federal. federal was around 10 thou out after seating, hornady averaged 5-8. that was in a redding competition bullet seater (after sizing in a type s FL die)
I use norma for my .308 (average under 2 thou) and IVI/LC for my .223 (1-2 thou average)
 
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