Hornady Case feeder troubleshoot?

Gatehouse

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I'm setting up a new Hornady progressive with all the goodies including case and bullet feeder. I've adjusted the cam wire up and down, the V block slides in and out of the shellplate slots nicely, but the case tips on the way in. Every time. My old progressive is an older RCBS model that I would single load the cases so no experience with case feeders.

What am I missing here?


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I'm setting up a new Hornady progressive
First that is not a New model, ejection has changed. It is called EZJect and came out 10 years ago. You can get the upgraded version parts by calling Hornady.

Did you try with different V-Blocks? There are 6 different ones all different lengths and sometimes the recommended one is not the best. Try one a bit longer.
Also the speed you cycle can impact it, don't go too slow. Another area could be the timing on the press, make slight changes to the paws heights.

Also just call Hornady when you are in front of your press. They are awesome and if you have out of spec parts they will just send you replacements free.
 
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I’ve tried v blocks 4 5 and 6 for 45 acp.

The press was never used by the previous owner and it was a smoking good deal, didn’t know they have a new system.

Thanks!
 
I have the new model. Once you update, it might work flawlessly (it does for me with 9mm) or it might sometimes have little hiccups (it did for me with 45acp). If it does, make another post and/or PM me.

I think you're gonna need new shellplates for the EZ-Eject system too.
 
Yes you will. Can't use older shellplate with the EZ-eject. I have both. But you can use new shell plates on older wire eject system.
I left the old system in until I can afford the new plates for the calibers I have in the old plates.
 
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I took another look and indeed the timing is a bit out. The case is getting inserted prior to the full opening of the shellplate. When operated without brass I can see that the shellplate is not 100% lined up with the primer, so it looks like some pawl adjustment is in order. When I manually turn the shellplate into the proper position, the case feeds in just fine.

Before I buy the EZject system I would like to know a bit more- specifically, if the wire ejector system is working fine is it really that much better? Will it make things smoother and faster? Obviously with this set up I want to be able to produce lots of ammo with a minimal amount of dicking around with it.
 
I took another look and indeed the timing is a bit out. The case is getting inserted prior to the full opening of the shellplate. When operated without brass I can see that the shellplate is not 100% lined up with the primer, so it looks like some pawl adjustment is in order. When I manually turn the shellplate into the proper position, the case feeds in just fine.

Before I buy the EZject system I would like to know a bit more- specifically, if the wire ejector system is working fine is it really that much better? Will it make things smoother and faster? Obviously with this set up I want to be able to produce lots of ammo with a minimal amount of dicking around with it.

I can't say that it works better, because I don't have the wire system, but the ezject works as fast as I can pull the lever. The only way it fails for me is if I forget to add powder to the hopper, but then it's a ME problem, not a press problem.
 
There is a bit more resistance due to the wire tension. But it's not a big problem for the extra costs.
I left the old system on until I can afford to buy 6 new shell plates. Only new version shell plate I have is 32SWL which I can still use with the wire system.
If you do 500 to 1000 at a sitting, it might be worth it.
 
Before I buy the EZject system I would like to know a bit more- specifically, if the wire ejector system is working fine is it really that much better? Will it make things smoother and faster? Obviously with this set up I want to be able to produce lots of ammo with a minimal amount of dicking around with it.

If it works for you don't change it. The new system ejects with a deflector in the subplate. Sometimes even it is not perfect and the case head will jam on it halting the press.
 
I would just try the wire system before convert to new system.

About adjusting the pawls for timing, instead of guessing------

From Hornady LNL AP Instructions:

The right pawl (as you face the press) advances the
shell plate as the ram travels up when the handle is
pulled down. The left pawl advances the wheel on
the down stroke of the handle and should advance
the shell plate to the detent holes in the sub-plate.

If the shell plate doesn’t advance enough on the
down stroke of the ram, only the left pawl needs
adjustment.


The right pawl is too low if the shell plate stops
short of the detent
, which can be felt as you rotate
the shell plate into place by hand in a clockwise
direction. If the pawl is too high, you will feel a slight
double click on the handle as the pawl disengages and
the shell plate is locked into place by the detents.
The same is true for the left pawl which indexes on the
up stroke of the handle (down stroke of the ram.) Likewise,
if the plate doesn’t advance far enough on the up stroke
of the ram, only the right pawl needs to be adjusted. Don’t
assume that both pawls need adjusting.
Do only one pawl at a time to keep from becoming confused.
 
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Within driving distance I have two places I can buy the new shell plates.
With taxes one charges $56.56 (I assume it's the older version at that price since they state from $xx.xx) and the other $77.43 each plate.
 
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Within driving distance I have two places I can buy the new shell plates.
With taxes one charges $56.56 (I assume it's the older version at that price since they state from $xx.xx) and the other $77.43 each plate.

I have a bunch of plates for mine. All are the new model. Some have costed me like 40$, others are in the 75$+ range. It seems the more obscure the calibre, the cheaper the plate. 9mm wasn't very expensive.
 
With a little pawl adjustment, things sorted themselves out and now it's feeding cases from the tube just fine. So I hook up the electric hopper and turn it on, and this is what happens-

There must be some sort of adjustment or maybe it's missing a top piece that fits on either side of the clear funnel? That part is wide open and the cases come around and then tip sideways into the funnel. Brass comes from the right hand side of the picture- there is a piece of brass at the top that looks like it's about the fall in but actually it went past. When I look into the top of the hopper, the brass appears to be lining up properly, ready to drop, but it drops prematurely and gets caught.

The funny thing is, the cases are both getting caught and falling upside down. The manual says to open the door for one problem and close it for the other. :)

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Watch this video from 4:00 to 5:10


Thanks, I was scouring youtube for something like this, but you know with youtube you gotta sift through lots of "hey youtubers, I've made this shaky blurry video with my phone and I'm going to talk for 30 minutes although it should only really take me 3" :)

I'll go try this out.
 
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