Horrible, diamond hard carbon fouling. What can I do?

This works very good best I have found made by Wipe Out, its in aerosol can the stuff I have is in a liquid ,think its only available in spray now.

http://www.sharpshootr.com/carb-out/



WCO-440 * NEW "CARB-OUT" ™ Carbon Remover 8 oz non aerosol can $13.99
 
Guntech's suggestion of JB Bore Paste is an excellent one. It was recommended to me by a top competitor in the ASSRA benchrest game and I have found it to work very well. Hard carbon fouling in the throat is probably more common than many people think as patches often come out clean even though it's there.

Chris.
 
I've never tried it inside a barrel, but kombayotch showed me how spray brake cleaner works like magic for rock-hard encrusted carbon deposits on the inside of AR bolt carriers. The carbon gets to have a consistency like hard furnace coal (if anyone else even remembers heating with that stuff...) The brake cleaner just washes it away - white stream of solvent hitting the bolt carrier, black stream of solvent flowing away from it. I've never seen a gun cleaning solvent that could eat carbon like that. No more chipping, just remember to oil afterwards.

I've always had good enough results with JB paste on bad milsurp barrels.
 
And don't fire a weapon that has been recently cleaned with brake or carb cleaner as heating it will produce a compound similar to phosgene gas and even a small whiff can do severe and permanent damage, if you survive.

ht tp://www2.worksafebc.com/i/posters/2013/ws_13_09.html
 
I don't know if a bore and barrel is possible to be that dirty for bullets to tumble like that and be so resistant to cleaning....

I would have to say the truth here is in the details

If the bore looks clean, and you made a tremendous effort to clean it, she's probably clean.

If the bullets are still tumbling, well you're probably using the wrong diameter of rounds e.i 308 in a 312 or maybe the rifle is just an odd bore like 316 (it happens).

Try slugging the barrel

Or maybe she's got crown damage

Maybe she's just shot out to fu ¥€

I could be wrong but it seems like the barrels clean man, after all you've done. I'd say your chasing ghosts here
 
Could be. But it still has black coming out of it and the rifling 'looks' square on the top with a sharp trailing edge. I'm going to try the electrolysis, if it doesn't show results then this one is going to .35 Winchester.
 
In situations like this (which I consider frustrating and desperate), I have resorted to much more aggressive tactics and I have been almost always pleased with the results.

I respect the opinions of those who say that you shouldn't use stainless brushes in barrels. My only qualification to that statement is that I wouldn't use stainless brushes in match quality barrels with a high level of smoothness and uniformity. In my opinion, the rules are totally different when it comes to old pitted military barrels. In those situations, you actually WANT to remove some metal from the barrel because the roughness and pits are acting like a grater as your bullet passes over, and this causes insane fouling, pressure spikes and poor accuracy.

Here is a thread that I started in 2008, and it includes photos to show the results of what I did, as a last resort, to one of my barrels. The results speak for themselves:

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/foru...1-Rust-Valve-Grinding-Compound-and-Steel-Wool

Since that time, I have done similar things with other barrels. In fact, I even went out to Lee Valley and bought some of their fine and superfine lapping grit and made my own paste up by mixing it with grease until it resembled grey peanut butter. You should see what that Lee Valley stuff did to an old military Mauser .30-06 whose barrel was so rough and fouled, I thought it was a smoothbore when I got it. (The rifle now consistently shoots 3/4 m.o.a. out to at least 600 metres.)

From what you have described, your barrel needs internal polishing to remove the baked-on crud and then to smooth the rough metal down. I wouldn't worry about opening up your bore diameter a bit because your rifle is so inaccurate now as to be unusable; therefore, nothing ventured, nothing gained. Those Ross barrels had a reputation for tightness, anyway, so a bit of internal lapping shouldn't hurt too much.

At worst, you'll have to buy another barrel. But I would always try the aggressive treatment before giving up.
 
I use MPro7 bore gel for the rock hard powder fouling that builds up on the barrel face when using a brake and for gas piston heads. It does dissolve it and pretty quick too. I'll rub a heavy coat on with my finger and let it sit 10 mins then brush with a bronze bristle brush. It usually takes a couple applications but it removes a noticeable amount every time eventually leaving the surface spotless. It removes copper but isn't as aggressive as dedicated copper removers, its main strength is very stubborn powder fouling. I don't have anything that works better.
 
Tried Tiriaq's electrolysis method and wow he was right that's the ticket. Tons of grossness boiled out right away and a ton of copper played onto the rod. Unfortunately this barrel still looks like it is done, so I will be seeing about having it re bored.
 
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