Hot water cleaning for corrosive
- Thread starter klaus enuff
- Start date
Can Am, do you pour until it comes out clear? I have always just used bore solvent (copper, powder, plastic etc all in one) but I got to thinking I might save time and money by doing the water first. Do you find it makes the rest of the clean up go easier?
Also do you use the water on your gas system?
Also do you use the water on your gas system?
I only shot my SKS once, before I even managed to take it completely apart, so instead of hot water I cleaned it with Hoppes Elite Gun Cleaner, which is water-based. I seems to've done the trick, as it's been over a week, humid as hell, and still no rust...
The wipe-out says not to mix it with oil. Apparently the wipe out leaves a film in the barrel, such as the oil does. Is it necessary to use both? Dunno. Does the oil react with the wipe out? Dunno.
I wasnt sure about that either. Thats why I gave it a good cleaning after the wipe out with some hoppes....
Ive never had to clean corrosive stuff out so I was just throwing everything at it that I had. Ill check tonight when I get home and see how it looks.
Ive never had to clean corrosive stuff out so I was just throwing everything at it that I had. Ill check tonight when I get home and see how it looks.
Since I have to put the kettle on to boil I just pour the whole thing down the barrel. Got a nice 3 funnel set at the dollar store, point the barrel down the bathtub drain and presto. The barrel gets nice and hot and self dries. I follow with Hoppes #9 and then oil. I don't clean at the range but get to it as soon as I get home.
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I use a patch soaked in solvent (right now I am trying shooters choice) to loosen up and remove most of the carbon. Then I flush with hot water and run a patch through until they come out dry. The drying patches usually come out pretty clean.
majormarine
CGN Regular
- Location
- Lower Mainland, BC
for the SKS, so you guys also pour boiling water onto your bolts? no issue for the water getting into the firing pin? because the hot water dries itself?
I'm not familiar with the SKS. For my Mosins I pour hot water on the bolt head and wipe down immediately to minimize water contact. Bolt interior is clean and well oiled. Periodically I will dismantle bolt to check. I'm not 100% sure on this but I believe corrosive blowback from the chamber to be minimal; barrel is main concern.
I've gone to a wet down with bore solvent at the range before I leave, a dry patch followed by hot water at home then wet/dry solvent patches. I noticed clean up was easier and faster than without the water. This is for my SKS. The only other thing I use the water on is the gas tube and piston. I've tried windex and it works too, brake cleaner is excellent.
- Location
- Prince George B.C
I go with water, nitro solvent on the important stuff, and some WD-40 on my 858. might need a more thorough clean soon though.
On the website, Hoppes Elite (MPro7) is advertised as being capable of neutralizing corrosive primer salts, and I love it.
However, I still always start cleaning after corrosive by boiling the kettle. (I know absolutely that it works instead of wondering if I can trust the product literature of some cleaner). It is cheap insurance since all it costs is a couple of cents for the power to boil the kettle. It takes very little time, dries almost immediately and won't hurt anything, especially if you are going to clean with your regular solvent/oil right away anyway. Just boil, and pour. You can also just use hot water from the hot tap, but boiling water evaporates faster afterwards.
Like CANAM said, doesn't do much for the carbon and other fouling, all it does is dissolve and flush away the primer salts. You still have to clean as normal afterwards.
Wipe Out is great stuff and I use it on all of my rifles. It shares the same problem with all copper eating cleaners, it just keeps on working if you don't clean it out.
I've never seen it cause a problem, but then I've never left it in a bore. Many barrels have copper in their metalurgy and somewhere along the line, any copper eating cleaner is going to have and effect on it. Clean it out and leave a light oil coating just to be on the safe side.
Corrosive ammo is a pain, but like all of the old WWII stuff that used to be available, back in the sixties, we learned to deal with it. Many of the milsurps available show the ravages of corrosive ammo that wasn't or couldn't be dealt with in time. I personally ruined the bores of a great old Mosin and a T1 series Inglis P35 by lending the rifle to a fellow that should have known better. I was assured that he was going to use modern, non corrosive ammo. Turned out to be some of that Hungarian stuff from MilArm that had been loaded with soft points and packaged in white boxes that looked like normal sporter stuff. The 9mm was packaged the same way. No warnings about corrosive priming.
This is a good thread. I know it comes up quite often, but there are lots of new shooters being brought into the system by the influx of surplus com bloc firearms. Many of them just don't know what they are dealing with. These threads are valuable sources of information for newbies and a lot of older shooters that still think the Win 94 was standard issue to the Canadian forces at one time. Yes, I know some were issued, but not a military standby.
All of the information above is good. It all works well. I myself prefer the boiling water method as I know from my own experiences that it won't ever fail me. Just one other bit of advice, some here hinted at it but haven't said it. Check that barrel the day after and maybe even push an oily patch down the bore just to make sure. Sh-t happens, sometimes even when we do everything right, a little insurance is cheap and goes a long way to saving a valuable investment.
I've never seen it cause a problem, but then I've never left it in a bore. Many barrels have copper in their metalurgy and somewhere along the line, any copper eating cleaner is going to have and effect on it. Clean it out and leave a light oil coating just to be on the safe side.
Corrosive ammo is a pain, but like all of the old WWII stuff that used to be available, back in the sixties, we learned to deal with it. Many of the milsurps available show the ravages of corrosive ammo that wasn't or couldn't be dealt with in time. I personally ruined the bores of a great old Mosin and a T1 series Inglis P35 by lending the rifle to a fellow that should have known better. I was assured that he was going to use modern, non corrosive ammo. Turned out to be some of that Hungarian stuff from MilArm that had been loaded with soft points and packaged in white boxes that looked like normal sporter stuff. The 9mm was packaged the same way. No warnings about corrosive priming.
This is a good thread. I know it comes up quite often, but there are lots of new shooters being brought into the system by the influx of surplus com bloc firearms. Many of them just don't know what they are dealing with. These threads are valuable sources of information for newbies and a lot of older shooters that still think the Win 94 was standard issue to the Canadian forces at one time. Yes, I know some were issued, but not a military standby.
All of the information above is good. It all works well. I myself prefer the boiling water method as I know from my own experiences that it won't ever fail me. Just one other bit of advice, some here hinted at it but haven't said it. Check that barrel the day after and maybe even push an oily patch down the bore just to make sure. Sh-t happens, sometimes even when we do everything right, a little insurance is cheap and goes a long way to saving a valuable investment.
