House fire gun.

So if the screw heads just twist off, I can still drill out the screws? I have a machine shop, but this is very delicate compared to what I usually work with.

Sure.
Here is one way - drill out the threaded end, using increasingly larger drills until the hole almost reaches the edges. Drill only as deep as the engagement length. Then use a punch, and drift out the shank of the screw. The remains will be left in the threaded hole. Pick out these remains.
If necessary, a needle file can be used to cut a V notch through to the very edge; eases collapsing the little ring of threads.
Work carefully, and in all probability the threads in the frame will be intact, and it will not be necessary to rethread to a larger size. Might be necessary to run a tap of the correct original size through, just to clean things up.
Much easier to deal with through holes than blind ones. Just work slowly and carefully, thinking about what you are doing.
 
Sure.
Here is one way - drill out the threaded end, using increasingly larger drills until the hole almost reaches the edges. Drill only as deep as the engagement length. Then use a punch, and drift out the shank of the screw. The remains will be left in the threaded hole. Pick out these remains.
If necessary, a needle file can be used to cut a V notch through to the very edge; eases collapsing the little ring of threads.
Work carefully, and in all probability the threads in the frame will be intact, and it will not be necessary to rethread to a larger size. Might be necessary to run a tap of the correct original size through, just to clean things up.
Much easier to deal with through holes than blind ones. Just work slowly and carefully, thinking about what you are doing.

Spoken as one who has 'been there, done that' :)

How many seized screws do you have? I start with the least critical (probably one in or near the grip / lanyard ring / trigger guard) and perfect my technique as I go.

I am not that familiar with any SAA revolvers in 41 Long Colt. Could you be more specific as per who made / what is, this piece?

Does someone offer replacement screws? Making new ones is easier than it sounds. Making ones that look like the original should only be a bit more work but if you can purchase replacements, then I would weigh that.
 
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Not true if the fire gets hot enough what happens is it changes the temper of the steel can make it harder or softer and because of that it can be unsafe.

Most gunsmiths wouldn't want to touch it because well... They don't want it blowing up and you sueing them.

I never understood this. Why not just have the frame/reciever normalized and re hardened? It's really not that big of a deal.....
 
I never understood this. Why not just have the frame/reciever normalized and re hardened? It's really not that big of a deal.....

It shouldn't be that big a deal but most people with an oven aren't interested in doing it and the ones that are charge enough that it's usually cheaper to buy a new gun.

I wonder if the guy who does the colour case hardening in NS would be able to do something with it. Sending it to the USA might not be a big problem if it is antique - therefore a non-firearm in the eyes of US Dept of State and ATF.
 
It shouldn't be that big a deal but most people with an oven aren't interested in doing it and the ones that are charge enough that it's usually cheaper to buy a new gun.

I wonder if the guy who does the colour case hardening in NS would be able to do something with it. Sending it to the USA might not be a big problem if it is antique - therefore a non-firearm in the eyes of US Dept of State and ATF.


The fellow in the east coast that does recoloring is Oskar Kob. He does excellent work with the bone and charcoal method. He has done a couple of vintage shotguns for me. If you google oldguns.ca (in Ottawa) you will get examples of Oskar's work. Old guns (Sean McGuire) is who I went through having restoration work done and he sent the guns to Oskar for the case coloring.

He has been Colour Casing firearms for many years, if you want an excellent job, at more than competitive rates, give Oskar a call, he’s a great guy with an abundance of knowledge.





Oskar Kob


923 Lewis Cove Rd.


Site 5, Box 9


RR #1 St. Peters, N.S.


B0E 3E0





1-902-587-2257
 
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I never understood this. Why not just have the frame/reciever normalized and re hardened? It's really not that big of a deal.....

I don't think a black powder Colt SAA frame was ever in a hardened state. So if it went through a fire it would be in a thouroughly annealed state. Soft with no internal stresses. Colour case hardening would have no effect on the strength of the action as the areas of increased hardness are only a few thousandths of an inch deep. It was mainly a cosmetic and wear resistance treatment in the past anyway. I have a 1873 Winchester action that went through a fire, same story there, the springs were toast of course but the steel is basically sound, At least for the pressure range that the 73 was designed for.
 
What about re-engraving? Have to do that before re-finishing right?

I'll have to give Oskar a call and find out I guess, thanks for the lead!
 
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