How do I avoid stuck cases

Just to add something else here, by all means full length size your cases and see it that doesn't cure the trouble.
This bit about neck sizing only, is one of the many things that is made a way too much of on these threads.
If the rifle has no excessive head space, there is no point in neck sizing only. Many on here will say it is for accuracy. If you are a bench rest competetive shooter you have a point. But for the average shooter on here, who is mainly interested in getting a good hunting load, the extra accuracy that supposedly comes from neck sizing only, doesn't enter into the equation.
With a rifle that shows no ring around the case, indicating too much head space, there is no point in not full length resizing.
Especially for a new reloader starting out, full length size your cases.
I full length resize for every bolt action rifle I currently have in the gun room. And from listening to the talk on these threads, my brass lasts as long, or longer, than most I hear on here talking about it.
And the cases go in and out of my rifles freely.
 
Most new reloaders would be farther ahead if they forgot everything they ever heard about neck-sizeing, partial FL sizeing, useing cases fired in other rifles and maybe even loading for other than bolt guns. Once you've learned to walk, then maybe think about running.
 
CZ_Brno said:
I'd rather use a wooden dowel rod and a rubber mallet.
Click to expand...

BTW: I tried a wood dowel first. It doesn't work; it just forms itself around the bullet and wedges into the rifling.

An aluminum cleaning rod was all I had at the range. Back at home I wrapped a .25" steel rod in electrical tape to save my rifling.
 
H4831 said:
Just to add something else here, by all means full length size your cases and see it that doesn't cure the trouble.
This bit about neck sizing only, is one of the many things that is made a way too much of on these threads.
If the rifle has no excessive head space, there is no point in neck sizing only. Many on here will say it is for accuracy. If you are a bench rest competetive shooter you have a point. But for the average shooter on here, who is mainly interested in getting a good hunting load, the extra accuracy that supposedly comes from neck sizing only, doesn't enter into the equation.
With a rifle that shows no ring around the case, indicating too much head space, there is no point in not full length resizing.
Especially for a new reloader starting out, full length size your cases.
I full length resize for every bolt action rifle I currently have in the gun room. And from listening to the talk on these threads, my brass lasts as long, or longer, than most I hear on here talking about it.
And the cases go in and out of my rifles freely.
Click to expand...

Thanks all!
Interesting... I will try FL and compare. I was just trying to squeeze the last of accuracy out.
 
Before I go any further after I resize my cases I grab a few random cases and chamber them to see how the bolt closes before I go any further in the reloading process.If the bolt closes hard or seems sticky, I check case length, and trim if they need it, If case length is good, then I turn my die in a tiny bit further and resize the case again.99% of the time this will work for you !!
 
My TC Encore with 308WIN (avatar) chamber is tighter than my Dillon case gauge; some cases that I pick up at the range fit the gauge loosely but will stick in the rifle. As mentioned above full-length resizing solves this.

For brass already fire-formed to the chamber I set set the die ever so slightly longer than spec to keep about 0.001" gap between the cartridge head and the breech face. This ensure no sticking on extraction, and eliminates inconsistent vertical shot stringing caused by varying tension on the action when locked-up. All of this is a compromise compared to just neck resizing for maximum precision. I only trim the cases necks once they are above the case gauge's top shoulder to ensure no bullet pinch will occur. Basically only "full-length" resize just enough for a particular chamber.

These steps are meant to find a balance between brass life and precision, while not compromising reliability. Like you already know when hunting it's crucial to be able to fire a follow-up shot without having to unjam the firearm first.
 
Don't bother with neck sizing for a semi, it won't work, even if the casing was fired in the same gun. You will end up with many jams.
 
H4831 said:
Just to add something else here, by all means full length size your cases and see it that doesn't cure the trouble.
This bit about neck sizing only, is one of the many things that is made a way too much of on these threads.
If the rifle has no excessive head space, there is no point in neck sizing only. Many on here will say it is for accuracy. If you are a bench rest competetive shooter you have a point. But for the average shooter on here, who is mainly interested in getting a good hunting load, the extra accuracy that supposedly comes from neck sizing only, doesn't enter into the equation.
With a rifle that shows no ring around the case, indicating too much head space, there is no point in not full length resizing.
Especially for a new reloader starting out, full length size your cases.
I full length resize for every bolt action rifle I currently have in the gun room. And from listening to the talk on these threads, my brass lasts as long, or longer, than most I hear on here talking about it.
And the cases go in and out of my rifles freely.
Click to expand...

+1 to that. In a hunting rifle it's not worth the chance of a case getting stuck when ur looking at a wall hanger.
 
+1 with respect to the (un)importance of neck resizing only versus full-length sizing.

Notwithstanding my particular situation (partial full-length sizing for the TC encore with large head space), I fully agree the (dis)advantages of nominal full-length sizing for the non-bench rest shooter are negligible. All the extra attention and time spent on special brass treatments cannot affect the chamber throat; it's the one and only dimension that permits compatibility with other components while holding tolerances in the tenths of a thou.

Full length resize and forget about it.

Then again, the bench rest crowd is a different breed! :)
 
copperhead1971 said:
thats why you make the first shot count...lol all so full length resizing is the only way to go,then check for length ,trim as needed,then bring on the primers ,powder and projectiles
Click to expand...

Thats exactly how i reload.... FL size (deprime), then i use my lee case trimmer/length guage, if it doesnt need trimming it wont!, then chamfer/debur, prime, powder and finally seat bullet. Isnt that just par for the course?
 
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