How do I clean my gun?

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Pantharen

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I really do not know.. I had cycling issues with my Savage, and tried to field clean it. I really had no idea what I was doing, and the instructions in my kit are limited and kind of confusing (for a novice). I did oil the action (probably too much), cleaned the chamber as best I could, but I couldn't get the rod with the cloth up the barrel...


Should I just take it to a gun shop, and have them show me how to clean it??
 
See if you can find a YouTube video on your specific rifle and how to field strip and clean it. I've stripped firearms right down to the frame using YouTube. The info is definitely out there.
 
Agreed. That's where I started as well. Tons out there. I found videos stripping a TT33 to the very smallest piece. I'm sure there's a boatload on Savages.
 
Cleaning a .22 barrel is significantly more tricky than a hunting rifle in the .30 caliber range. Having so very little room for the tools, it's vitally important that everything's the right size...

My first question, right off the bat, would be this: How big are the patches you're using? Trying to stuff a great big centerfire patch down a tiny little rimfire barrel isn't going to end well. You're looking for a little patch, say, 3/4" to 7/8" square. They sell them in packs of pre-cut patches labelled for .17 to .22 barrels, or you can cut down a larger patch, but however you do it, try a small patch and see how it goes. You might be surprised.
 
GearaDoga said:
Cleaning a .22 barrel is significantly more tricky than a hunting rifle in the .30 caliber range. Having so very little room for the tools, it's vitally important that everything's the right size...

My first question, right off the bat, would be this: How big are the patches you're using? Trying to stuff a great big centerfire patch down a tiny little rimfire barrel isn't going to end well. You're looking for a little patch, say, 3/4" to 7/8" square. They sell them in packs of pre-cut patches labelled for .17 to .22 barrels, or you can cut down a larger patch, but however you do it, try a small patch and see how it goes. You might be surprised.
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My kit is designed for everything from a .17 to .45, I used the smallest cloth, which is 2" in diameter, I couldn't get it to enter the barrel, the rod is actually thin cable wrapped in plastic with brass ends. The pictures said to pull it through the barrel following the bullets path (which makes sense), but I couldn't get the cloth to enter the barrel without bunching up. My kit is made by OTIS

radmacks said:
Spend the money on a bore snake makes it easy.
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Try cutting the patch a bit smaller. I have had to do that sometimes. You just need to cut it enough for a tight fit.
 
Use a 1inch x 1 inch patch. 2 inch is just way too big. Do not oil up your semi auto action as it will slow down an action which is new and maybe still very tight. I only use WD40 in the action which contains just a little oil and mainly solvents; perfect for keeping the action clean from gunpowder residue which can jam up tighter .22 actions.

The 64 action found in the Winchester Cooey, Mossberg, and now Savage vary in how sensitive they are too jamming. Some actions have looser actions and jam less. Others are just a pain in the arse and will only function reliably if they are super clean and little to no lube.

Years ago two of my buddies bought Mossberg 64's. One was super reliable, the other needed to clean the action every 50 shots to function.

As far as bullets go, high velocity copper plated bullets are usually better. Some brands may function better than others. It's all trial and error.

Here's the tear down:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PzMQdkEC5zs
 
radmacks said:
Spend the money on a bore snake makes it easy.
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+1 bore snake for the barrel, plastic pick and nylon brush for the bolt area. Clean the area under the extractor with the pick, clean the bolt face and bolt raceway with the brush. Then a nice clean cloth with oil and all metal gets a rub inside and out.

If using a rod and patch, make sure the batches are cut small enough so that they fit with only light pressure. Too big a patch and you risk getting stuck, to small and the patch won't clean well.

I'm also a big fan of clp products like g96 and eezox. One bottle does it all, for most routine cleaning.
 
Pantharen said:
I really do not know.. I had cycling issues with my Savage, and tried to field clean it. I really had no idea what I was doing, and the instructions in my kit are limited and kind of confusing (for a novice). I did oil the action (probably too much), cleaned the chamber as best I could, but I couldn't get the rod with the cloth up the barrel...


Should I just take it to a gun shop, and have them show me how to clean it??
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THANK GOD FOR THE INTERNET. In the past we just left our guns to rust away to nothing rather than figuring it out for ourselves.
 
Suputin said:
THANK GOD FOR THE INTERNET. In the past we just left our guns to rust away to nothing rather than figuring it out for ourselves.
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Before the the internet I used to stay indoors.....since the internet, I also stay indoors!


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I'd suggest buying a different cleaning system. Two things I see with the Otis that are lacking.

First is that there is no muzzle bushing to protect the muzzle from being scraped by the wire coating. As grit and dust becomes embedded in the soft plastic coating it gets drawn over the critical muzzle crown edge and wears at the steel. And yes, this DOES happen. Odd as it sounds soft isn't good if you're rubbing one soft thing against one harder thing.

Second is that you've got two brushes and a couple of eye style patch holders. Not a proper bore size jag in sight. A proper jag will press the patch firmly into the rifling and rub at the deposits left in the corners between the lands and grooves. A bundled patch simply dragged behind won't get into those spots. It only catches the middles of the grooves and the tops of the lands.

What I'd strongly suggest is a Dewey cleaning rod for your .22. It'll work up to about .308. But if you get a larger size rifle at some point the bigger Dewey rod that fits the larger bores would be a better idea.

Tipton makes a lovely little set of good jags that are bore size specific to within small increments. Or you can buy proper jags for each caliber as you buy your firearms.

For .22 I like the style of jag that is longer and looks like it has shark's teeth. You don't poke the patch on the end with this style. Instead you roll it around and the shark's teeth grab the material and hold it. A helpful finger in through the ejection port may be needed to help keep it unraveling as you insert it into the chamber mouth. But once on its way you'll feel the difference. And you'll see it when the patch comes out the other end.

Some experimenting with brands of patches may be needed to find the one that works well with your .22. The bigger calibers have more fudge room so they are not as fussy about patch thickness.

On rifles or handguns where you can't clean from the breech I've become a believer in using a muzzle crown protector on the cleaning rods. These are brass or plastic cone like things that slip on over the cleaning rod. To use them you hold them with the thin pointed end held in the muzzle crown once the patch or brush is on its way. The idea being that the guide is what rubs the rod and not the muzzle crown.

The condition of the crown is essential for good accuracy and consistency. So it's well worth protecting with a little extra effort.
 
Lefty #### said:
Save your money, Boresnake's are junk!
Using a Boresnake's to clean a bore is like wiping your butt with a hula hoop!
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Ha, I like that!...but I also use a bore snake. They are great in the right circumstances...like .22 rim fire, and revolvers, and pistols, and shotguns :) ...and yes, wash it (by hand is just fine and saves your wife screaming at you if you put it in the washing machine...bad idea). On some of my guns, that is all I use, on other, I have to get out the rod and brush, all depends. I also cut small patches for .22 rim fire on a jag and with a rod. I also have a Dewey rod. They are the cat's pajamas and are coated so you don't need a muzzle crown protector. Good luck and don't sweat it too much. You'll figure out what works best for you.
 
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